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My 64 Ford Custom Project
Now that I've had a little fun with my "Trailer Queen" Thought I'd fill everybody in on what I'm doing with it.
I picked the car up a while back, it's a 64 Ford Custom (plain jane, very bottom of the line 6 cyl 3 spd 2 dr post). It had been sitting in a wrecking yard for several years after it went into a ditch one night. It got hit hard enough to ruin the hood, driver fender, bumper and grill. I hadn't really paid too much attention to it, figuring it likely had frame damage.
When i started huntiung for a body to put a bored and stroked 352 (401CI) in I took a close look at it. The only thing that was hurt turned out to be the parts I already listed, no frame damage, no damage to the drivers door, and only a couple of very minor dings in one of the quarters. The only rust is a small (about 2" X 6" hole) hole in a low spot in the trunk. I made a deal for the car, good fender, hood and bumper.
I've been collecting parts for about a year now so I have about all I need to put it together. The engine, a C6 from a 68 428 T Bird (the car has a factory 9" with 350 gears). I also have all new weather stripping, heater core and the parts to do a disc brake conversion (79 T -Bird parts are a bolt on).
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Well There's Your Problem
Well...... didn't make it run prior to Tulsa and the radiator is still on backorder (I'll be checking with another supplier later this week).
Before we left on vacation I was having problems stabbing the distributor, so I set it aside till this weekend. When I was looking I found that the oil pump drive shaft was sitting HARD against the back side of the hole the distributor goes in.
The only way I was going to find out exactly what was going on was drop the pan. For those who haven't dropped a pan in car on an early 60's Ford, it's a lot of fun. After you get all the pan bolts out and the motor raised, you have maybe 2" to get a wrench in there and drop the oil pump (you let it fall into the pan) THEN you can get the pan off. It's even more fun putting it back together especially if you have added a windage tray like I did.
Well with the pan off I found out the crank counterweight was hitting the oil pump drive shaft......the extra thick heavy duty one I had installed. The shaft was bent causing the binding. Had I used the stock shaft like I will be putting back in there would not have been an interference issue. When you think about it there is really no advantage to running the thicker one anyway...it still necks down to the same original size on both ends.
Oh well, wish I had found it prior to putting it in the car, but at least I caught before I fired it.