I am at the stage in the monte to start the wiring. I am reading good things about the painless and the ez wiring kits. I want to do all new wiring with fuse box. In your opinions what is the best kit to go with.
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I am at the stage in the monte to start the wiring. I am reading good things about the painless and the ez wiring kits. I want to do all new wiring with fuse box. In your opinions what is the best kit to go with.
painless .
https://www.ronfrancis.com/ Hands down!! IMHO!! Pete
I did Ron Francis in my coupe and am pleased with it.
I've done 2 with the Painless kits and they work well also.
Did 1 "EZ" kit last year and wasn't impressed. It was ok, just not impressed with the quality.
thank you everyone. I think that with my level of experience being non existent i am going with the painless.
Take your time, follow the directions and use a good quality crimper and connectors and you'll do just fine. A good wire stripper will also be necessary. One like this would do the trick, it's a knock off of a Klein.
New 7" Automatic Cable Wire Stripper Tool Crimper Stripping Electrician Cutter | eBay
I will echo Ken's suggestion, the "auto" type stripper makes things so much easier!
thanks will order that today.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyardgirl
Make sure it strips 12 through 24 gauge, I'm not sure about the one I posted.
use bread ties or pipe cleaners to temp form your looms.
Try not to make the wires 'perfect' length, you'll be amazed how helpful an extra inch or two can be.
I've not found a crimper better than a Lobster brand, but any quality ratcheting crimper will do. (Although I prefer to remove the ratchet mechanism)
Painless......
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by firebird77clone
I've used a Klein/Ideal style since my days at McDonnell Douglas in the 60's and for the price I don't think they can be beat.
Yep, once you find a GOOD tool, nothing else will compare, and you'll accept no substitutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
Crap, I used EZ and I thought it was ok, although I have nothing to compare it to, I guess I will go with painless next round. I should send you my auto stripper, I thought it was the best thing since sliced bread at first but now I never seem to use it.
The reason to use a good quality wire stripper is to keep from scrapping the wire you are stripping, you want to remove the insulation without damaging the wire itself.
When I worked at McDonnell Douglas damaging a wire being stripped was important in commercial aircraft, but absolutely critical for military aircraft. At that time most plugs and receptacles on military aircraft were soldered and wire nicks were absolute no-no's.
You had to be a certified solderer to work on military aircraft and it wasn't easy to pass certification.
This may sound nuts but warm wire is much easier to work with. Easier to strip.
thanks everyone. I will keep all the advice in mind when i start my wiring.
My favorite stripper!!!:) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ms3VWg7i3lk Pete
you so bad lol
Sorry to chime in late here, I went with Hwy 1 kit because of the easy to install instructions as well as the wires aren't permanently wired to fuse block, so you only add what you want. Each module is very specific,1) I.E. starter/ignition. 2) charging system. Lights...etc. Everything is included. So easy even I could do it ;)
I'd like to know what makes the EZ harnesses bad because I am thinking of getting one for the 40 to replace the early Ron Francis the car has now.
I bought my Ron Francis kit in '99 and it has worked just fine. About a year go I wanted to do some additional wiring and I went to the Ron Francis web site for info. (must have lost my paperwork) . They didn't show my now discontinued model so I called and they emailed the info to me right away. I don't know why you want to change brands, but I would sure recommend Ron Francis customer service.
When I'm good I'm very, very good, but when I'm bad, I'm better. Mae West!! Not me:) PeteQuote:
Originally Posted by jyardgirl
The Ron Francis that was in my car has flat block type exposed junctions instead of bulkhead connectors and glass fuses and single screw type terminal blocks that were kind of a pain to deal with. Very small set screws etc. I want to go with more common fuses and use weather tight connectors where they need to be. Plus some of the wiring that was done before I got it isn't great so I'll just start over instead of fix this one and add to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by figure8
That's kind of like my american auto wire harness in my 72....... It was a nice harness, but since it was not a terminated harness, I could have saved $350 or more and had the same amount of work and quality with a non application harness. It seems most of these companies are getting their supplies from the same places to build their harnesses from. Unless they are way cheap and that changes the quality a lot. I'm just trying to not break the bank, and not get a bad deal too. :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
I personally forget the crimp and I solder all the terminals, I know I have heard the instructions say crimping is better, well they asked one manufacturer straight up which is better crimping or soldering and they said how many harnesses would we sell if they said they had to be soldered?? Think about it, have you had a solder joint fail?? I know if you over heat it but a couple practices and you will never have to worry or touch it again. I have soldered at least 6 cars in the past 15 years and never a failure, I will stick with it!! Yes I have had crimps fail, rare with good ratcheting crimpers but I still prefer solder. Good Luck Matt
I crimped and soldered the connections and shrink tubed over them on my 72 too. I didn't want to have to do it again. It just pained me to buy the $700 harness to get it and see that 85% of it was not terminated. They changed their description for them shortly after they came out with them. Yes, the fuse block sort of fit the firewall like a stock one, and it came with all the connectors. But dang, I could have done the same work and used a different harness. Haha
If you haven't purchased a harness yet do yourself a favor and check out the American AutoWire offerings. Their kits include everything you need to wire the car, right down to switches and bulb sockets if you need them.
American Autowire: Wiring Harnesses, Accessories, & Parts for GM Restoration, Modified Restoration & Custom Street Rod
There instructions are very good also. Summit and Jegs both carry their kits as well as Speedway, I believe.
Mark
Just rechecked my kit it was an american autowire hwy. 22 kit, wow the prices have gone up since i bought my several years ago now, like doubled! Great kit though. I'd buy another for any future projects, great kits!Quote:
Originally Posted by astroracer
This is why I'm curious to why the EZ wire harnesses got a bad review here. I'll gladly spend money for a good part. But if one is just as good and a guy can save $100-$200, why not? :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
first thing to check is the block connections. give them a good tug. there have been many reports of poor quality and loose wires in the fuse block .
I have used 3 american autowire in the past and really like there products I am redoing and updating my 32 rite now getting ready for summer
Ryan, I installed an EZ kit maybe 4 or 5 years ago. I had done 1 prior with a painless and back then the wires were already attached in the fuse box. I hated that! Then I was asked to do a pickup for a friend who gave me the EZ kit to install.. It just seemed "chinzy" / cheap.. real low quality, and I swear the "directions" was just a copy of a copy of a copy! I was less than impressed. When it came time to do my coupe, I figured I'd shoot the works and went with a Ron Francis. It is nice.. but it better be for the price!
Based on my past experience, I'd steer clear of EZ and go with something that gets better reviews. my 2 cents.
I also have the American Auto Wire highway kit with the termination at the fuse block. It's so
much nicer not having all those wires hanging in your way.
Rich
I have used, American Autowire on 2 cars, one was terminated at the panel incorrectly from the factory, the dome light blinked instead of a turn signal, real sweet to try and fix since the car was done a 57 chevy, not much help from them when they kindly said send it back??? I used two Centech harness's Centech Wire Custom Wiring Harnesses which are my favorite you terminate the panel yourself, like a residential breaker box, wire sticks in and tightened, worked awesome and each circuit was tested upon hookup unlike the already terminated ones. and custom made for your car, you tell the guy what you have and he makes it and prints the wires, which had way more than enough wire, it aslo has ground lugs, nice addition.
I have used 1 Painless, worked good but still prefer the Centech, and one Rebel harness which was made in Tennessee I believe, it was ok but similar to the EZ harness, needed more wire! they where not quite long enough always, I always wanted to try Ron Francis but haven't since they are pricey. Definitely check the terminated ends if they are already terminated. If this is your first kit, hit Painless or my favorite Centech as the instructions and tech support are awesome, if you are use to wiring a vehicle one of the other quality ones probably would be fine I would say.
thank you every one. i see that i have a lot homework to do before i order. thanks again for all the info and personal experience.
IIRC some of those harness people have wire identifation printed the length of the wires?
i have used around 30 painless kits. i like the 12 circuit . the h/l t/l leads are 3-4 ft longer than you need. each wire tells you what it is , where it started and where it is going. so far i have never had a failure.
one other thing I did on my last car that worked real well, i mounted the panel to a piece of 1/8" steel and screwed a piece of 1/4" plate aluminum to it that had a 3" hole in the center so the steel was visible through the hole from the back side i then went to the hardware store and bought a 3" round flat magnet about 1/2" thick that had a center hole in it. i screwed it to the firewall under the dash, and viola I had a fuse panel you could pull down similar to Ron Francis panel, the magnet indexes in the aluminum and sticks to the steel and works like a charm for about 15 bucks.