painless or ez.

The reason to use a good quality wire stripper is to keep from scrapping the wire you are stripping, you want to remove the insulation without damaging the wire itself.
When I worked at McDonnell Douglas damaging a wire being stripped was important in commercial aircraft, but absolutely critical for military aircraft. At that time most plugs and receptacles on military aircraft were soldered and wire nicks were absolute no-no's.
You had to be a certified solderer to work on military aircraft and it wasn't easy to pass certification.

This may sound nuts but warm wire is much easier to work with. Easier to strip.

thanks everyone. I will keep all the advice in mind when i start my wiring.

My favorite stripper!!!:) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ms3VWg7i3lk Pete

you so bad lol

Sorry to chime in late here, I went with Hwy 1 kit because of the easy to install instructions as well as the wires aren't permanently wired to fuse block, so you only add what you want. Each module is very specific,1) I.E. starter/ignition. 2) charging system. Lights...etc. Everything is included. So easy even I could do it ;)

I'd like to know what makes the EZ harnesses bad because I am thinking of getting one for the 40 to replace the early Ron Francis the car has now.

I bought my Ron Francis kit in '99 and it has worked just fine. About a year go I wanted to do some additional wiring and I went to the Ron Francis web site for info. (must have lost my paperwork) . They didn't show my now discontinued model so I called and they emailed the info to me right away. I don't know why you want to change brands, but I would sure recommend Ron Francis customer service.

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Originally Posted by jyardgirl

you so bad lol

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When I'm good I'm very, very good, but when I'm bad, I'm better. Mae West!! Not me:) Pete

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Originally Posted by figure8

I bought my Ron Francis kit in '99 and it has worked just fine. About a year go I wanted to do some additional wiring and I went to the Ron Francis web site for info. (must have lost my paperwork) . They didn't show my now discontinued model so I called and they emailed the info to me right away. I don't know why you want to change brands, but I would sure recommend Ron Francis customer service.

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The Ron Francis that was in my car has flat block type exposed junctions instead of bulkhead connectors and glass fuses and single screw type terminal blocks that were kind of a pain to deal with. Very small set screws etc. I want to go with more common fuses and use weather tight connectors where they need to be. Plus some of the wiring that was done before I got it isn't great so I'll just start over instead of fix this one and add to it.

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Originally Posted by DennyW

This may be on interest...

Speedway Universal 22 Circuit Wiring Harness - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors

I bought a painless for mine a long time ago. 200.00 bucks... I'm afraid, although very nice, I would not pay 600 bucks for it today... :LOL:

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That's kind of like my american auto wire harness in my 72....... It was a nice harness, but since it was not a terminated harness, I could have saved $350 or more and had the same amount of work and quality with a non application harness. It seems most of these companies are getting their supplies from the same places to build their harnesses from. Unless they are way cheap and that changes the quality a lot. I'm just trying to not break the bank, and not get a bad deal too. :LOL:

I personally forget the crimp and I solder all the terminals, I know I have heard the instructions say crimping is better, well they asked one manufacturer straight up which is better crimping or soldering and they said how many harnesses would we sell if they said they had to be soldered?? Think about it, have you had a solder joint fail?? I know if you over heat it but a couple practices and you will never have to worry or touch it again. I have soldered at least 6 cars in the past 15 years and never a failure, I will stick with it!! Yes I have had crimps fail, rare with good ratcheting crimpers but I still prefer solder. Good Luck Matt

I crimped and soldered the connections and shrink tubed over them on my 72 too. I didn't want to have to do it again. It just pained me to buy the $700 harness to get it and see that 85% of it was not terminated. They changed their description for them shortly after they came out with them. Yes, the fuse block sort of fit the firewall like a stock one, and it came with all the connectors. But dang, I could have done the same work and used a different harness. Haha

If you haven't purchased a harness yet do yourself a favor and check out the American AutoWire offerings. Their kits include everything you need to wire the car, right down to switches and bulb sockets if you need them.
American Autowire: Wiring Harnesses, Accessories, & Parts for GM Restoration, Modified Restoration & Custom Street Rod
There instructions are very good also. Summit and Jegs both carry their kits as well as Speedway, I believe.
Mark

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Originally Posted by astroracer

If you haven't purchased a harness yet do yourself a favor and check out the American AutoWire offerings. Their kits include everything you need to wire the car, right down to switches and bulb sockets if you need them.
American Autowire: Wiring Harnesses, Accessories, & Parts for GM Restoration, Modified Restoration & Custom Street Rod
There instructions are very good also. Summit and Jegs both carry their kits as well as Speedway, I believe.
Mark

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Just rechecked my kit it was an american autowire hwy. 22 kit, wow the prices have gone up since i bought my several years ago now, like doubled! Great kit though. I'd buy another for any future projects, great kits!