Thread: For Don Shilady

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Forget the "Crane" tech, you're dealing with a Petronix module and matching coil and it will work with or without added ballast. I do not have a ballast wire in the Mustang and didn't have one in the 72 F 100 that I sold and never had a problem with either one.

Jerry and NTFDAY,

Thanks for your comments. The Flamethrower coil is mounted vertically but that 1929 style firewall is pretty full and by now I could probably change that coil blindfolded! I grew up near Valley Forge Pa. and there is a local story about Count von Steuben drilling the Continentals who would always ask "Why?" when given an order which would produce a stream of German profanity by the Count. Scientists have a reason to ask why but maybe Americans tend that way naturally?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

One of the biggest issues with internet OR phone TECKIES is that they weren't around when we had chrome bumpers on cars and trucks-----these folks from plastic bumper and catalistic converters just don't have IT, get IT, or even care about IT!!!!!!!!!!


If it has a carb, v belts, points, chrome bumpers, no or only lap belts, single headlights, etc------------

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

Jerry and NTFDAY,

Scientists have a reason to ask why but maybe Americans tend that way naturally?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

I can understand why scientists and others would ask "why" especially if the response was in reference to something that either wasn't fully or properly explained. Asking "why" is a normal response at least to most of the folks in my generation though in my opinion many in this latest generation have been dumbed down to the point that they blindly follow the rest of the sheep.

Again, Glad you figured it out Don. And glad I was helpful too.

Hey, I am just celebrating a successful Va State Inspection for my replica '29. With the improved connection to the coil the engine starts with a simple turn of the key. One tail light LED needed replacement and a leaking filter to the gas tank was replaced with a different cartrige type fuel filter. Then the third set of spark plugs (Accel short plugs, 0.46 inch) replaced the previous full length plugs. Actually the previous plugs were pretty clean but the engine seems to have a miss so my mechanic (Bruce Orlandi, Performance Transmissions, Hanover VA) thought there might have been an electrical short out to my headers. Unfortunately the new plugs did not seem to cure some iregular beat from the engine but now we are guessing the problem is due to the 700R4 shifting into OD at low RPM. The vibration is not present at idle and goes away at higher speed and acceleration is peppy! Anyway this is mostly good news for a change and my car is inspected until next November!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

congratulations mate -must be feeling pretty chipper now!!



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Good for you Don. Glad to hear "she's" doing so well.

A few tests confirm that a manual down-shift to third gear provides smoother running when at 25 mph. Evidently the 700R4 does not kick down at slow speed enough to avoid some "lugging". The 3.55 rear ratio is reduced to about 2.485 when the 0.7 ratio 4th gear kicks in and stays engaged at slow speed. I don't plan further adjustment but will just remember to down shift for slow cruising.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Exhaust Wrap Rust?

It has been a long winter since I was here last and then Spring went by also. In May I had occasion to go to a NAPA store near the Richmond International Airfield about 10 miles from home just off of I-295 and I went in late afternoon with homecoming traffic. The weather was good and the ride was great at 70+ mph keeping up with the other cars. Just before I reached the NAPA store I stopped for gas and then found the starter simply did not work. Banging on the solenoid produced just one brief turn of the starter and then nothing so I went through the tow routine since I have a Premium Member AAA card. Now I am about to replace the starter with one of the chinese mini starters because I found the previous starter was within 1/2" inch of the down pipe from my shorty headers on the SBC 350. So the question is how to keep the heat from the starter? After I read up on available starters for about a week I chose a Chinese ministarter which gives more clearance from the down pipe and I put a layer of adhesive insulating wrap around the starter and the solenoid. I also purchased 25 feet of fiberglass "titanium" wrap and assorted wire fasteners. Then I read where that can cause rusting of my headers if the wrap gets wet which it surely will down low under the front fender. Then I bought some other wrap from Summit that is supposed to give 70% shielding and I may use that instead of the titanium wrap. My local race guru Bruce Orlandi at Performance Transmission says if I keep the wrap dry it will last but I read that the heat may melt the steel tubing inside of the wrap?
My preference at the moment is to use the heat wrap intended for turbo feed and other pipes which get hot rather than the titanium wrap due to the advertised 70% heat shielding. Anyone here who can comment on using exhaust wrap on a street rod as far as how long it will last and/or other ways to protect the starter?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Glad to hear you had a good run until then. My headers run very close to my starter on my 36 and I have no problems with it.

I recall at one point you had a bad connection on your ignition switch, have you checked it again to be sure it has a good connection to the starter, and check the motor ground. You may not need a new starter, it may only be your solenoid that is bad. And, if it is heat causing the problem you can remote your solenoid away from the heat source.

Replace the solenoid on your original starter with a quality unit and wrap the starter and that should solve your problem. Make sure all of the connections at the solenoid are tight, use outside star washers under the nuts, and the battery cable connection stud should be secured with a brass nut. You can take the starter apart and check the condition of the brushes and replace if necessary. Clean the commutator with fine emery cloth and check for end to end slop. IMHO, much more than1/16th is too much so add a thin brass shim with what is already there. The solenoid on a GM starter has always been the weak link.

36 Sedan and NTFDAY,

Thanks for your suggestions. I have put tiny star washers on both sides of the connections on the starter switch and that was the first thing I checked. The safety switch on the shifter looked OK as well so I figured the starter or the solenoid suffered from the heat near the right header down pipe. Today my racer guru Bruce Orlandi cut small nicks into the wire between the ignition switch and the starter at various places and found that a shrink wrap patch in the shifter safety switch wire simply stopped conducting at one point due to a loose connection or corrosion or whatever. The whole wire was replaced and the larger starter was replaced with a smaller Chinese ministarter. The ministarter was covered with adhesive reflecting fiberglass and the first 17" of the down pipe was wrapped with fiberglass insulation tape to protect the starter. So far the new set up starts easily but it will take a few test runs to burn in the fiberglass tape. If the tape leads to rust damage of the down pipe it will only be necessary to replace that first 17" of the right side exhaust system. NTFDAY I note you have a 1976 Corvette and wonder if you have a heat shield on the starter since my SBC is from a '76 Corvette.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Glad you got it sorted out! Now, go drive the cr@p out of it!