Awwwww come on Mike--everybody knows the new thing is to align the rocker shafts with the rear pinion
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Awwwww come on Mike--everybody knows the new thing is to align the rocker shafts with the rear pinion
John,
When you started here you mentioned buying a finished car, and now you've mentioned building which I assume means having one built to your specs. Mike's got a good eye, as that engine in the yellow coupe is angled back way too much to look and function right. I'm a big fan of "Ford-in-Ford", but shoe-horning a BBF into a deuce coupe is going to be interesting, and any vintage Ford engine (pre-modular) is going to be longer than the Chevy's - Bob gave a very good history lesson back up in post #15 in this very thread. That's why if you choose to buy a finished car you'll likely see about 3-to-1 Chevy powered, and about 1 in 10 stick shift. For me, if I build another one it'll likely have a newer mod-motor for power - I'm a glutton for punishment, and those mods look nasty in an open hood street rod (IMO).
Earlier in this thread it was pointed out that the '33/34 is 6" longer than the Deuce, and that almost all of that room is in the cabin & trunk. You have not mentioned your stature, but for me at 6'3" that extra length is priceless (plus I just love the profile of the '33/34)! We've been through this a lot lately, and while I love to build a guy can get a whole lot of car for a whole lot less money by shopping the market today. Don (DA34GUY) mentioned recently buying a really sweet little deuce roadster for about 65% of the cost of parts on a pallet - very sad for the guy who paid to have it built, but very nice for Don!
I think you're doing the right thing, honing in on what you like, but I would really recommend that you give it just a bit of time, get back on this side of the ocean and spend this summer going to cruise-in's and events like Good Guys & NSRA Nat's where you'll see tons of cars, but more important as you talk to guys and they see that you're serious they may entertain you putting your backside in their driver's seat to see what fits best. It's too bad you won't be back by March 9/10 for the Good Guys Scotsdale event. We're going to be out there visiting friends, and I intend to spend Saturday there roaming around seeing what I can learn, and enjoying all the different ways things are done. If you're serious about spending the bucks to have one built you might talk to Don - he built both of those Deuces above, and can have you living your dream (instead of suffering buyer's remorse) in a month or two, unless you have really crazy ideas about what you want....
JMHO, But everything is WRONG about this car.
As stated, engine angle, tried to get the early look with the wheels and tires, but missed it , as wrong proportion for 50's style.
Note, no radius rods or hairpins,meaning (UGLY) independemt front suspension
The list go's on and on.
Do yer homework tinman.
I don't know but maybe the guy that built the yellow one liked the look of the tilted engine and is running a two piece drive shaft:LOL:. Again, build what you like. It is your car. The resale will/might suffer of you go way out of the box though.
Yeah, no kidding Don!!!! Heck, I thought somebody put those wheels and tires on their in one of those 'photoshop' deals, can't imagine somebody mis-matching things that bad on a build!!!! But, to each their own, I guess there's no test required before you build a Hot Rod!!!!!
I'm not an authority on building 30's cars,,at all,,but,tinman,look at whats out there,as others have said,and after seeing some of Dons pix of what he's built,I know what I would do if I was in your shoes..Talk to the guy about building one for you..If you are going to pay for what you want,,get it built the way you want it from the start..I have friends in Aussie(NZers) who had a 32 roadster built in Kansas( I think),and drove it back to Ca. a year or two back..Its actually kept at a friends place,so they can do rodruns when they go to US..I would think that Don knows what he's about..Look at what he's built already..Some nice lookin rods there..
Yeah,I think that yellow 3w is ugly,too..
Don, I love the last one! If I win the lottery I'd have one of those. :3dSMILE:
David
No probs,Don..I've seen enough of your builds on here to realise that if ya havent got it nailed by now,,,well,,ummm,,havent said the wrong thing have I??:HMMM::HMMM:Ya know what I mean..;) They all look kool,,and,yes like the last one,too..Billy Connolly's favorite color....:D
Don, I am sorry to say this but I am not seeing the distinction other than the hood appears to be longer on the Yellow Ford and its back wheels are about six inches to the rear. Absolutely the engine has not been aligned correctly and its certainly lacking the radius rods and hairpins as you state and arguably the wheels are not what I would select, but those are issues that needs to be peeled back as I get more involved. What I was endeavoring to do here is to show where my choices are heading. To me the fluid lines of the 32 Ford are both compelling and stunning and and here's the slow burn, I can see myself driving one of these classic hot rods. So can you help me understand the distinction since I have never seen any 32 Fords for sale listed as Mid Boys but then I am new and have not dug deep enough. BTW can you also throw in an explanation regarding the coils over questions I asked? I would be grateful for this. Thanks, tin-man
Check out the height of the frame under the cab. Notice a difference?
I had to go back and find your question about front suspension. Quote "Decidedly I like the idea of having a visual engine, thus the question and 2), about coil over shocks. I have seen various pictures of both, the coils over look better in my opinion and I am wondering from a performance point of view what are the benefits of with, or without, this application?"
Coil Over shocks are used with Independant Front Suspension (IFS), some folks find IFS hideous on a fenderless ride. Others prefer the tune-ability and don't mind the look. Some others think of the old straight axle and buggy spring suspension as outdated and rough riding. These are the things you need to decide for yourself!
If you prefer a "traditional" (there, I used the "T" word!) old school look - go straight axle. If you like the IFS with coil overs, there you go! It's your car so your decision.
Here's a straight axle set up with coil overs,
not traditional looking , but rides nice.
I do prefer I-beam with hairpins and transverse spring though.
Any front end suspension "can be tuned " to handle and ride great.
Ya gotta remember, ya ain't drivin a new Cadillac.
John - this is what an IFS(independent front suspension) with coil overs looks like on my '31 :
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...erallview1.jpg
It's too 'busy', IMHO, for a fenderless car. This is what it looks like with fenders:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...0026-1-1-2.jpg
All those parts are hidden away, but do contribute to a great ride.
Here's someone's '32 with the traditional front suspension:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...9/DSC_0103.jpg
For the rear end - either, but my preference there is coil overs regardless:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...DSC_0002-3.jpg
All those rusty bolts on the rear hat and calipers - been changed to ARP stainless :-}
Mike, interesting comments and timely, what is evolving here looks like a carbureted BBF in 32 Ford 3 Window Coup, open engine, with a manual transmission that provides performance, visual appeal, reliability, and ease of handling. Something I can drive hard and fast, make real nasty sounds with, can survive long runs in Arizona and in general will provide the right amount of passion that I am looking for in a ride. Can I find something like that, probably, can get one built, certainly, but this is what's needs to be sorted. tin-man
Roger you are correct, I did say I wanted and preferred, to buy, but, and I add this, it would need to be fully sorted and I believe that would be the best way to go from a financial point of view. That said, I will leave the build option open if I cannot find what I want and I absolutely agree with the notion I need visit many of the various car events and get added experience by talking directly with the owners. 29 days to go and its on. Cheers, John, AKA, tin-man
Don, my compliments, you build fine machines can you send me a PM and as an example let me know all about the blue one above, its an awesome piece of work. Oh, and just outa curiosity wherein the heck is Location: Out in the country (Duncan), I'm in China, what country are you in?:LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL:
Cheers, John AKA, tin-man
Zhuhai, P.R.C.
Just got a email from a friend about this site seem they sell steel panels doors and such for 32s.. You guys probably already know about them but I didn't as I don't build this type car..United Pacific Industries looks like some chevy stuff too
Charlie, those are the folks who are in the process of bringing an all steel repop of the '32 5 window body to market. So far they've been selling individual panels as they get them dialed in on their way to the complete package.
Don, thanks for these pictures they helped settle some questions I had but dang ,they have created more, sorry. Here goes, as I do a close up on the bracket holding the coil over assembly, is that weld securing the ninety degree cylinder at the top , sufficient to withstand a bottoming out event as in going over a pot hole? Are the tubular components of the bracket solid or hollow, I conclude they are solid otherwise the weld sections would be compromised due to minimal weld area. Same question applies to the bottom of the coil over assembly, the two brackets cantilevered forward over the axel seem to be a likely candidate for weld fatigue over time and thus a potential hazard. If possible do you have a close up of the tradition assembly without the coil over.? Also, as I look at the close up of the frame I conclude the hairpins are to secure the axel from moving forward while stabilizing the vertical travel am I right? BTW is there a technical treatise on the overall 32 build available anywhere that I can get my hand on?
Don, I appreciate the PM, I will be sending you several questions off grid. My that's some awesome work you do, my compliments. I am not sure I would call it an appetite stimulant its more like cruel and decisively visually stunning, punishment. Excuse the play on words.
Cheers, John, AKA, tin-man
[
Don set me straight on what hot rod builds were all about, wow, he don't hold back, huh, :LOL: anyway he sent me this picture of a traditional shock set up, no coil over. Mark me down as sold on the traditional look. No coil over shocks. Cheers, John, AKA, tin-man.
Had a several email discussions with Don and he sent me more pics, here is one that rings my chimes on all fronts. It has all the elements I am looking for and can be made in a Hi Boy configuration. We are in early discussion stages but basically I am leaning in that general direction of having him build a rod for me after I have returned to Arizona, unless of course I can find one from one of his previous customers. Any comments?
BTW, post 39 has additional pics.
Cheers, John, AKA, tin-man
I have to say,tinman,that,from where I'm sitting,,it will probably be your best choice..I dont know Don at all,,but,like I said before,,you could do worse than get him to build you something..You have a far better chance of the CORRECT vehicle for your needs..After all,you could buy something that turns out to be a real crock,and have to spend a similar amount on rectifying things..You have been in discussion with him,so trust the guy to build what you want,or more to the point,maybe,,what you need..I hope it goes well for you,when you are ready to start..Lookin forward to the beginnings..Hey,Don,,when can I hold my hand out for the commission??hehehe..ooops..:LOL::LOL:
Robin, Thanx 4 the support and kudo's
Proven fact ---- I don't have to sell myself or my cars
They sell themselves.
Case in point --
Took these 3 to the L.A. Roadster show a few years ago, scattered
them around the area, put 4 sale signs on them and sold all 3 within 3 hours the first day.
Check is in the mail Robin :LOL::LOL::LOL:
just a regular old 32 factory,arent you??:D:D If it works for you,,thats kool..when the stance,etc is there,you are onto a winner.. Love your place too..Thats the one you sold?? Its nice..
Thanx again Robin,
Nope haven't sold that home yet, still on the market
It'll sell sooner or later.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...0026-1-1-2.jpg
Dave, Now that's visually stunning, my compliments, what color is it? Hey guys, duh, I know its yellow, well err, seems like yellow, but then, hmm, maybe its orange, or could be a blend of both, depending on the light, OK I give up, Dave can you divulge the correct color specs, the manufacturer of the paint and yep, the official color? :confused:;)**):LOL::confused:
Thanks, John, AKA, tin-man
John - thanks. The color is no super secret - it's a standard late Muastang Venetian Orange. It was originally on just the Roush, but then became a regular and current option, at least on the GT and above. You are correct as far as the light - it can go from a real orange in shade to a muted yellow in bright sunlight. According to my DuPont supplier it's the small amount of pearl. If you decide on that as your color, I can post the exact Chromabase formulation. After driving it for a while, I can assure you that there will always be and usually positive comments on the color:eek:
Another thing - while it does look much like a '32, it is a '30-'31 body with a '32 grille and gas tank
Hi Dave, yep, please send me a pm with the details, that color is decidedly one of my top two. BTW can you also post some more pictures of your car in profile and both front and rear, so we can all share the enjoyment you felt when you first took it out. We got a glimpse before of the side rear but that and the picture above is it. If you have done this before on another post can you share that post detail with me? Your profile does not show any pictures, too bad, since that is an awesome rod you got there.
Cheers, John, AKA, tin-man
John - I'll dig up the formulation and forward later today along with some more photos
John - this is what I used to go from bare metal to the finished paint:
Paint:
Undercoats SPI Epoxy, SPI 2K, Everfil G2 Polyester
Base Coat DuPont ChromaBase ‘07/’09 Ford
“Valencia Orange”
Formula 775302, Mix #275 (Quart formula multiply each times 4 to get the gallon formula)
846J Yellow Orange 222.8
801J HS White 275.9
853J Red Orange 296.2
805J Jet Black 297.3
150K B/C Balancer 736.1
175K Binder 897.9
Clear Coat Body = SPI Universal Clear
Fenders,splash shields,gas tank,horn cvrs
= Dupont HC-7600S
A lot of pictures are here on Randy's long running thread along with another similar: http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-ta...40p-heads.html
Photos (that license plate is an oldie from a very long gone car):
Dave, Thank you very much for the color details. err, what type of engine do you have, if you don't mind me asking? Cheers, John, AKA, tin-man
tin-man,
Sounds like your leaning toward a traditional build and that awesome. As far as the ride hieght on the Factory Five '33, yes it is adjustable and after 2500 miles, I haven't had any issues with ground clearence. I've never measured it, but have traversed speed bumps with no problem. I would say it's in the 4" range at the nose. Actually I had more problems with ground clearnece on my Total Performace T Bucket.
Thanks for everyones kind comments. The FFR isn't for everyone and they never intended it to be a "replica". It's more of a race car that loosely resembles a '33. Although they took some liberties with the body design, the 3" wider cockpit makes it much more comfortable than other vintage vehicles I've had. The stretched suicide doors make it a breeze to get in and out (even for my chunky 6' frame). The slot car handling and 2100# curb weight are also some nice attributes.
A local fellow here is "re-building" his FFR '33 to more reflect an authentic '34 with louvered side panels, cowl vent, glove box, authentic fenders, bumpers, lights, wire wheels, etc. Other than the wider body and removable roof, it may even fool some of the seasoned traditionalists. Enjoy!
https://picasaweb.google.com/arrowhead/EdS33HotRod#
[QUOTE=Arrowhead;456405]
The slot car handling and 2100# curb weight are also some nice attributes
Arrowhead, my compliments on such a great characterisation of the cars abilities, so, does that apply to a T bucket as well? Can you help me apprecaite the attributes of why people such as yourself pick a T bucket over say a Deuce? Both are visually pleasing but I'm of the opinion the T bucket is for sedate older folks whereas the deuce is for bad boys. INCOMING, LOOK OUT!:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Cheers, John, AKA, tin-man
[QUOTE=tin-man;456576] Talk about incoming!! John, you seem to have missed the point of Arrowhead's post. He's a builder and supporter of the FF33 kits, and his statements relate to that specific vehicle. Now as for your statement about T-buckets being for the senior citizens in old folks homes?? I'll let you defend that one yourself - hope you packed the cast iron underware in your ExPat pack....
[QUOTE=rspears;456578] Roger, to the contrary, I totally got his post and complimented his description of his cars handling abilities, this was in addition to my earlier post #4 on this thread congratulating Arrowhead on his remarkable tenacity and endurance during his build. If you check that post, 34_40 sent me the link Arrowheads Hot Rod Site which was a fascinating read and was a well documented introduction for me being a newbie to the business of hot rods. Also, and if I am not mistaken, Arrowhead responded to one of my original questions as to height of the front of the car to the ground.
As to the T bucket remark, I like both the T bucket and the deuce, but to my novice eye when looking at the for sale sites they have been offered with what appeared to be smaller engines than say what is typical for the deuce. Now maybe I have not seen any T buckets with BBC or Fords and being the case mea culpa for making an observation that was not entirely correct. Regarding the older folks crack, yep, I expect that may stir the pot a bit, but then again it was all in good fun, right? I am of the opinion the distinction between the older folks and bad boys will be taken in the spirit it was pitched as being pure hyperbole. That said I am curious why somebody selects a T bucket over say a deuce, probably just personal preference, but I thought I would pose the question.
So there you have it, I don't generally explain my actions, but being new to this forum I thought it best to do so. Did I do right?
Now where did I put those cast iron pants?:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Cheers, John, AKA, tin-man
John,
Speaking from one of those older folks perspectives "that of which I am", The pants might be a bit of an overkill. You probably only need the COD PIECE.:LOL::LOL::LOL:
No,John,,you dont see too many T buckets with B/B's in them,,cos I think you will find,that the average bucket weighs considerably less than any deuce,,whether it be steel or glass,so the power to weight ratio,with a warmed over S/B,and a short wheelbase,is sure to be a trouser packer,,and an interesting handling package at that..:D You need to try your hand in a blown B/BC powered streetlegal bucket,like hotrodtodd has,down here,in NZ..:D:D