Thread: Total performance t bucket vin #

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CAN ANYONE HELP? I have a TP T bucket first generation and the Vin # is on the frame UNDER the body. Anyone else run into this ? and how can I get a NEW tag? I have the Clean title and can provide documentation as to the validity of the car.I really don't want to remove the body.

Here in Mass. the number on the frame matches (or should match) the Certificate of Origin. The state assigns their own number for the title / vin. Maybe Florida does it different ? Look up your state dmv website about the rules. I also used a Total Performance chassis.

I always thought the title had the vin on it... the purpose of the title. You say you have a title, then I would think that proves the pedigree and transfer of ownership would follow. Should be no different the buying any car, transfer the title and register the thing at the dmv ?

I put two hotrods on the road, one I bought and the other I built. The 32 I built needed a cop to verify a vin tag. That I had made and pop riveted it to the door jam. The 34 I bought, where I live any car 40s or older only need a bill of sale to register and get the tag.

Originally Posted by angrystroker

I always thought the title had the vin on it... the purpose of the title. You say you have a title, then I would think that proves the pedigree and transfer of ownership would follow. Should be no different the buying any car, transfer the title and register the thing at the dmv ?

I put two hotrods on the road, one I bought and the other I built. The 32 I built needed a cop to verify a vin tag. That I had made and pop riveted it to the door jam. The 34 I bought, where I live any car 40s or older only need a bill of sale to register and get the tag.

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On my Total Performance chassis, you get a certificate of origin. Using your expression, to prove "the pedigree".

In MA, since it's classified as an assembled vehicle you get a state assigned VIN tag that they install.

If that car actually has a Total chassis, the Vin or actual serial number will be on the left hand frame rail, and was stamped just in front of the fire wall. That number will be something like TP1317(mine, an '86 manufactured chassis). A paper Certificate of Origin was supplied as well.

So the registration process for a kit car requires a few more hurtles to jump then the original iron version. Another plus for steel I like it, makes sense.

Originally Posted by angrystroker

So the registration process for a kit car requires a few more hurtles to jump then the original iron version. Another plus for steel I like it, makes sense.

Regardless of material, if it doesn't have a clean title or a registration or a cert of origin plus/or a bill of sale - and depending on the state, it can be easy or a real bear. Mine was simple, even in New York State. Even my steel '31, built of all after market parts was pretty easy. You have to do your homework BEFORE you arrive at the State DMV.

From SEMA, here is a summary of the requirements to register a vehicle in Florida:
http://www.semasan.com/semaga/TagTitleToolbox_FL.pdf

Originally Posted by angrystroker

So the original iron version. .

Here in Mass. No matter what the material! If you cannot show that it came from a Auto dealer as NEW and it had been registered by you or a previous party from within the state! You will fall into a set of catergories. An assembled vehicle (any material) has to meet a whole new set of specs. And the most strigent pertains to motors and drivetrains. The ONLY combo allowed will be from a CERTFIED MANUFACTURER! AKA, the big 3! And things like the rear axle will need to be within 3 percent of original. And yes, they do have inspection garages that check everything! Even check for being roadworthy! Not many of those rat rods will be around in our future here.

The gloom and doom I spoke of earlier has begun to descend I think!