Thread: oil pan gasket removal
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08-21-2010 10:37 AM #1
oil pan gasket removal
i am using a scrapper to remove the original cork gasket from the 472. without much success. is there a spray or anything that will help me out.BARB
LET THE FUN BEGIN
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08-21-2010 11:38 AM #2
A wire wheel always works great for me....joeDonate Blood,Plasma,Platelets & sign your DONORS CARD & SAVE a LIFE
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08-21-2010 11:54 AM #3
thanks for the help. i will try that.BARB
LET THE FUN BEGIN
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08-21-2010 12:20 PM #4
There is a spray called gasket remover, I think made by Permatex. I think you still have to get the biggest part off but it gets that last little bit of glue and gasket off.
I like a narrow putty knife that I sharpen more on a wheel, and single edged razor blades. Those brown feltlike discs they sell at Home Depot and other places work well on an electric drill, but you have to mask and use rags so the particles that are flung don't get into the motor. A shop vac works well when you are done, Barb.
I also bought an air powered gasket remover at Harbor Freight and for the longest time I left it in a drawer because I didn't think it worked well. Then I realized you just don't hold it against the gasket and expect it to do all the work. You have to use it like a regular putty knife and let the vibrating blade help cut the gasket loose. I now like it and use it a lot.
DonLast edited by Itoldyouso; 08-21-2010 at 12:23 PM.
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08-21-2010 12:45 PM #5
I generally use my die grinder with 3M Roloc Scotch Brite discs. There are cheaper versions from other (Chinese?) manufacturers that work about as well http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...glWMP2M1LZT2bl
...or even just the paint removal wheels found at the big box stores will make short work of those gaskets - and wont hurt the sheet metal oil pan.Dave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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08-21-2010 12:51 PM #6
i probably labeled the question wrong. the oil pan gasket is stuck like it is welded to the block. i have been using a putty knife and a large flat head screwdriver on it but i am not getting far. i will try to use the suggestions you guys have given me this afternoon after it cools down some outside. thanks everyoneBARB
LET THE FUN BEGIN
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08-21-2010 04:53 PM #7
some gaskets were cork and some were paper back then .. sounds like you have the paper kind .. with age they can become hard as wood .. just keep chipping awayiv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?
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08-21-2010 07:27 PM #8
thanks hoss i finaly got it off.BARB
LET THE FUN BEGIN
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08-21-2010 09:04 PM #9
Hi Barb, just wanted to make sure you are aware the dip stick tube needs to be relocaed for the El Dorado pan before you bolt everything back together.
If you didn't know, the the tube needs to be pulled out (straightening it as it goes) then the ball bearing neeeds to be moved from the real hole to the front hole and the tube re-inserted in the rear hole and bent to clear the rear main cap and crankshaft. If necessary the full mark on the stick should be marked to indicate full at 5 1/2" below the pan rail.I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....
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08-22-2010 12:26 AM #10
Barb I've had to use a sharp pocket knife in the past. That Permatex stuff does work well though. It took most of the windshield tar off the windshield frame on my old 48 F1. Glad to hear you got it off!" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
Welcome to CHR. I think that you need to hook up your vacuum advance. At part throttle when cruising you have less air and fuel in each cylinder, and the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed...
MSD 8360 distributor vacuum advance