Thread: Sand blasting is overated!!!!!

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Man , just got finished sand blasting the front end of the vega. Next time I will take it to a pro and pay the 2-300 dollars. I spent about 80 dollars on sand .My HARBOR FREIGHT tank/blaster is very touchy. It blast good for about 5 minutes then spits all the sand out for the next 5 minutes and it a pain in the rear to get going. The blaster was th main problem works ,does not work,works ,does not work, empty! The sand gets EVERYWHERE I put some goggles on and still got sand on my eyes. With the hood ,earplugs ,and mask/filter on it almost impossible to see. Anyways just blowing off some steam, next time I will go drop it off some where.

yuppers, if it's an area bigger then I can do with my little hand held blaster, or it won't fit in the blast cabinet, I hire it done!!!! My favorite two days when I had my own large size blaster was the day I bought it and the day I sold it!!!!! Nasty work, I'd much rather hire it done!!!!!

Yep and yep. I know exactly what you are going through as we just got done blasting two cars worth of parts and I am still coughing and sneezing. I even made a shield to contain the sand like Uncle Bob suggested one time and it helped somewhat, but the area still looked like the Mojave Desert when we were done.

I mainly did it because I didn't feel like trucking the parts to the sandblast shop, but next time I am going to do that for sure. It's just one more job in life that I found out I don't want to do for a living.

Don

i'm spoiled. i have a blast booth , complete suit with fresh air hood. i even have some ear phones in the helmet. it's still a lot of work to control an 1 1/4 hose. anytime the pressure in the pot falls below the pressure in the hose the media stops flowing . if the pressure in the pot is above the hose pressure by more than 5 lbs it will empty the pot. even my big pot is touchy. i keep the inlet pressure at 45 lbs. it takes that much to seal the pot or i would go lower. i use type 6 acrylic and starblast.

Hey shine how far are you from Dallas ? I will have some work in the future if you are interested. Do you do heavy equipment or body panels, or both?

Years ago when I did my other Ts and my son's 66 Mustang I rented the Big compressor/sandblaster on wheels from our Rent & Save here in town. It worked great, did it outside, couldn't have been happier.

About 6 weeks ago I blasted the frame work of my T coupe where the cowl bolts on, figuring it would be easier with it apart than later bolted together. Used my brother-in-law's little pressurized Cummings he just bought - Bad News, came out in spurts or all at once.

Suchs them little syphon ones worked better.

I have a small drop-feed blaster from Northern Tool. It worked great for me. I blasted my rear axle housing, the third member, and a bunch of other parts. I had no problem with feed rate or clogging. Vision was a little tough because I had a cheap hood. I took the frame (Gibbon got it all rusty) to a commercial blaster because it was just too much area. The only thing I would do different is ask him to use a finer medium. It took a lot of work to get all the "stuck" sand off of the frame, and to get the primer to smooth it out for paint. For anything larger than an axle, A-arms, punkin, etc., it goes to the guy with the big equipment.

The secret is dry air. Sand blasting is high flow, and the compressor generates a lot of water. If you don't have a way to dry the air, you end up with endless clogs in the bottom of the hopper or in the hose.

I wore a good painting/particulate filter, and did most of the blasting out in my yard. I just let the medium incorporate into the soil.

BTW, Bluff Dale, TX is about 45 mi SW of Dallas

We use a garage sale large nylon tent (we got cheap) for our sand blasting room.
big zippered doors and screen windows that let the air out and the floor keep the sand in.
When we are done we lift the tent with our overhead hoist and all the sand goes into the center and easy to reclaim.

It gets the job done
hank

Now that s a good idea. I was thinking of getting a little shed.

That is a good idea. Beats the system we had.

Don

I gotta friend that just re-opened his soda blasting business, relocated to Tenn from Vegas. THAT my friends is the ticket!! For $500-$1000 based on the vehicle (amount of paint, filler...involved) he can blast it down to the next layer of paint or primer, or take it all the way to bare metal, or just leave in the bodywork... AND, the glass, chrome and rubber can all stay in it because the medium (baking soda) won't hurt it!!! It leaves just enough "texture" that the primers will adhere well without having to re-prep AND it won't rust if left outside for up to 3 months!!! They have NO IDEA why it won't rust, it just doesn't! So, thats what I do when I need something blasted. Check around your area to see if anyone is doing it, it WORKS!!!

I do know a guy that blast with soda. Yes, it is great! The only thing is it does not do much for any rusted areas, IMO. It does paint and fillers no prob, rust nothing. I guess you could soda blast the vehicle and rust spots you use regular media. Dont know I just did not like the results on my truck it did have a lot of surface rust though.

If he gets something with a lot of rust, he'll soda then sand the rust areas. It seems to work pretty good on surface rust, but you are correct, for heavily rusted ares, sand is nessesary.

Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver

.My HARBOR FREIGHT tank/blaster is very touchy.

ya want know the secret to working one of those tanks?????

here's a site I found while looking for a picture of the tank w/a good idea.

AND this picture is how to adjust the sand flow to make the blaster work better. Because it trying push a lot of sand when the valve is WIDE open. This is the way we've been using my blaster & it works great...joe