Thread: Explanation of Common Tools:
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	06-23-2007 07:22 AM #1 Explanation of Common Tools: Explanation of Common Tools:
 
 As emailed to me this morning by a good friend of mine in Florida.
 
 DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
 metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and
 flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that
 freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying.
 
 WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under
 the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and
 hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you
 to say, "YEOWW CRAPP...."
 
 ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes
 until you die of old age.
 
 SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
 
 PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
 blood-blisters.
 
 BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor
 touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
 
 HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
 principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
 motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal
 your future becomes.
 
 VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt
 heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer
 intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
 
 WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction
 of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
 
 OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
 objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside
 the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.
 
 WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
 motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2
 inch socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes.
 
 TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood
 projectiles for testing wall integrity.
 
 HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after
 you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly
 under the bumper.
 
 EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward
 off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.
 
 TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.
 
 E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known
 drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible
 future use.
 
 RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops
 to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work.
 
 TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of
 everything you forgot to disconnect.
 
 CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that
 inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end
 opposite the handle.
 
 AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
 
 TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a
 drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin,"
 which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits
 aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about
 the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say,
 the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark
 than light, its name is somewhat misleading.
 
 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids
 and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on
 your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out
 Phillips screw heads.
 
 STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to
 convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.
 
 AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
 power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that
 travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty
 bolts which were last over tightened 30 years ago by someone at Ford, and
 instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts.
 
 PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
 bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
 
 HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
 
 HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
 used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts
 adjacent to the object we are trying to hit. Home owners primarily use it
 to make gaping holes in walls when hanging pictures.
 
 MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
 cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well
 on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles,
 collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts.
 Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.Instead of being part of the problem, be part of a successful solution. 
 
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	06-23-2007 08:09 AM #2
 He he, sounds like the person who wrote this has some personal experience with tools. All very true statements.        
 
 I can especially relate to the drillpress thing !!!
 
 
 DonLast edited by Itoldyouso; 06-23-2007 at 08:30 AM. 
 
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	06-23-2007 07:29 PM #3
 LOL........That's how we learn, drill press flying metal smack hands, bleed, next time using drill press clamp the metal down, no bleed. About now I've lost 100 quarts of blood, I should be the smartest guy around. Not true I still find ways to bleed all over the floor.
 Brad
 
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	06-23-2007 08:55 PM #4
 ive used a 2x4 for exactly that        
 






 
		
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