Sunday Red: A 1932 Roadster Build Log Started in 2022

Well this thread has taken and interesting turn, i.e., using a dryer circuit to energize a welder. An electric dryer uses a 30 amp 220/240 volt circuit. The term “220 volt circuit” is not really accurate in the United States as we use 240 volts as a standard. A dryer using 5,000 watts when supplied with 220 volts draws 22.73 amps yet it draws only 20.83 amps when supplied with 240 volts so 240 volts is more efficient.

If your house was built prior to 1996, your dryer circuit is typically supplied from a 2 pole 30 amp breaker and uses #10 AWG (or larger) cable. This circuit was typically terminated on a NEMA R-30, three conductor receptacle using 10/2 or 10/3 cable with a bare ground.

Since January 1, 1996, The National Electric Code requires that new construction utilize a 4 wire connection (black and red for load, white for neutral and bare copper [or green] for ground) to an electric dryer and be terminated on a 4-prong NEMA 14-30 receptacle. (As an aside, mobile homes have used 4 wire since the 1980’s.)

The latest version of NFPA-70 (also known as the National Electric Code) requires dryers to be ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protected because they are in the laundry area (considered a potential wet area). The same is true for basements and the garage. The code is all-encompassing meaning that welders, air compressors, and any other electric-powered tool or appliance that you might find in a garage will need GFCI protection if they are cord-and-plug connected.

That said, I would not hesitate to use the dryer circuit as long as the receptacle is in good working order. Use a #10/3 SO cord for not more than 25’ and #8/3 for up to 50’. SO cord is available at Home Depot or Lowes. Make sure you match your dryer receptacle on the plug end and your welder plug on the receptacle end. The SO cord will have three rubber insulated conductors and you will use them as follows:
• Black – load
• White - load
• green - neutral

If you’re not sure how to wire this extension cord please get an electrician to help you as we do not want to read about you getting licked by the 240 volt dragon.

In a “perfect world” you would install a net new 50 amp, 240 volt circuit that would handle any welder. This will extend a 240 volt, 30 amp circuit for your welder so make sure you do not exceed that rating.

JimBeam, have you actually sat in a '32 roadster?

If the answer is "NO" then I STRONGLY suggest that before you call Jason Slover to order a chassis you find a way to gently settle your butt into the seat of one, behind the wheel not just as a passenger, and be sure that you like the "fit" before you invest $$$ and sweat equity into building your dream, only to find out the glass slipper is two sizes too small and you can't drive comfortably. I'm only 6'2 (shrunk down from 6'3 with age), and I have to be careful getting in my '32 because my belt tries to grab the striker pin, then once sitting I have to work my feet past the door opening. My right knee rests against the LOKAR shifter knob which rises about 15" or more above the tranny, and my right heel is on the floor & tunnel, kicked back to the throttle suspended above. My left knee is up, resting against the door, ready for left foot braking as it's too hard to get the right from throttle to brake quickly. I used Fiero seats, headless for the roadster, because they sit so low and have minimal thickness in the back while still being very comfortable. You might gain a bit with SS Bomber seats, if you like the look and feel.

In my '33 coupe, which also has Fiero seats, I slide the seat back and my legs are extended comfortably. I can put the clutch pedal on the floor, but could really move the seat up one click. My right calf rests against the tunnel, knee away from the shifter.

Just sayin', you've said you're 6'4", and you need to be sure what you're buying before writing the check. The '32 is beautiful, and it screams HOT ROD like nothing else, but if you have to stop every 100 miles to unkink your body?

running a welder on a dryer circuit is just not a good idea . you might get away with a wire welder but using a stick can really draw a lot of juice especially if you stick it.

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Originally Posted by rspears

JimBeam, have you actually sat in a '32 roadster?

If the answer is "NO" then I STRONGLY suggest that before you call Jason Slover to order a chassis you find a way to gently settle your butt into the seat of one, behind the wheel not just as a passenger, and be sure that you like the "fit" before you invest $$$ and sweat equity into building your dream, only to find out the glass slipper is two sizes too small and you can't drive comfortably. I'm only 6'2 (shrunk down from 6'3 with age), and I have to be careful getting in my '32 because my belt tries to grab the striker pin, then once sitting I have to work my feet past the door opening. My right knee rests against the LOKAR shifter knob which rises about 15" or more above the tranny, and my right heel is on the floor & tunnel, kicked back to the throttle suspended above. My left knee is up, resting against the door, ready for left foot braking as it's too hard to get the right from throttle to brake quickly. I used Fiero seats, headless for the roadster, because they sit so low and have minimal thickness in the back while still being very comfortable. You might gain a bit with SS Bomber seats, if you like the look and feel.

In my '33 coupe, which also has Fiero seats, I slide the seat back and my legs are extended comfortably. I can put the clutch pedal on the floor, but could really move the seat up one click. My right calf rests against the tunnel, knee away from the shifter.

Just sayin', you've said you're 6'4", and you need to be sure what you're buying before writing the check. The '32 is beautiful, and it screams HOT ROD like nothing else, but if you have to stop every 100 miles to unkink your body?

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I am sure that this is good advice and I'm going to try and do that. But even if I can't and even if the fit is not perfect, the build, the learning and the fun from it will still be worth it to me. Worst case scenario, I end up selling the car and building a new one - I'm OK with that. I've spent plenty of money on more stupid things than this :) I'm still optimistic though. While I am 6'4", my inseam is only 30", which is short for someone of my size and my sitting height is taller than most. So I'm thinking that the fit may not be so bad or can be overcome. As I said, this is a second car just for cruising The Strip, so a less-than-perfect fit can be overcome.

I called Summit last night to get an estimate for the chassis order and some of the upgrades that I am going to want. The overall price is what I expected and the freight charges were also a pleasant surprise. I want to do some more clean up and prep in my garage, but I think I will be leaning towards the order in the very near future.

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Originally Posted by JimBeam

I called Summit last night to get an estimate for the chassis order.....

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OK I'm curious why you would call Summit about a Pete & Jake's Chassis instead of calling Pete & Jake's direct? You're putting a middle man into play when it adds ZERO value, IMO.

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Originally Posted by rspears

OK I'm curious why you would call Summit about a Pete & Jake's Chassis instead of calling Pete & Jake's direct? You're putting a middle man into play when it adds ZERO value, IMO.

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Because Summit is dumb enough to let you borrow a lot of money for a lot of time for zero dollars :)

That simply doesn't make sense to me. Enjoy your build.

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Originally Posted by rspears

That simply doesn't make sense to me. Enjoy your build.

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To be clear, I am in touch with Jason at P&J and he's been very helpful. Really, the only role that Summit is playing here is on the financing side because they give insane credit lines for 18 months. It's the same people, the same products, just a different way to finance it and pay no interest. What good is a high credit score if you don't use it? ;)

you would be amazed what you can order thru amazon and get free shipping .

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Originally Posted by shine

you would be amazed what you can order thru amazon and get free shipping .

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Indeed, you are right about that. Amazon also has some great financing and they will be a big part of my plans. I am 100% determined to get through this project with paying zero interest. Between my Amazon, Home Depot and Summit credit cards, I think I can do it. In fact, I may start including that in my updates since the bills/purchases are really starting to fly right now :)

LOL I'd say you're steppin' over a dollar to pick up a dime, but it's your dollars and your dimes so you're driving. Have fun!!

GOOD NEWS: I placed the order with Summit today and my chassis is underway.

• 1932 with IFS
• Rear disk brake
• 5x4.5" (I think that should work?)
• Brake lines installed
• C-notch chassis
• 302/AOD mounts
• Triangulated 4-bar rear

BAD NEWS: P&J gave me an estimate of 18-19 weeks. Not excited about that, but hey, plenty of time to practice my welding and do more work on the engine. I also need to source an AOD. I don't anticipate that being too difficult, I just have much more time to do it now.

So I might go back to the original plan of rebuilding the engine first just because 5 months is plenty of time to do that. I'll see how I feel about it this weekend after I finish removing the EFI.

“……rebuilding the engine first just because 5 months is plenty of time to do that….”

LOL Man does that sound like famous last words.

I’m sitting here chuckling because I just got the cam in for an engine I’m building…….it was on backorder for over 4 months. Also right now the machine shop I use is backed up to the point where it’s about 2 months turnaround time to get an engine done.

That being said as your doing a 302 parts availability should be pretty good. Financially you’ll probably be better off buying an engine kit with all the rebuild parts rather than sourcing the parts individually.

Of course until you get the engine torn down and inspected you will not know what to order as far as bearing, piston, and ring sizes. As this is basically your first engine I can’t stress enough that you should have the measuring done by the machine shop and follow their recommendations.

Speaking of machine shops DO YOUR RESEARCH before choosing one. Not all shops or machinists are created equally. I can’t recommend strongly enough that you should check with some of the local car guys to get recommendations before settling on a shop.

If you elect to do your own assembly just keep in mind ultimately it’s up to the assembler to insure that all the parts are correct, the clearances are good and that it’s assembled properly. A good machine shop will stand behind the work they have done but are not responsible if the assembler doesn’t catch an incorrect clearance, gets dirt in the bearings or improperly torques something.

Just some thoughts.



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Originally Posted by Mike P

“……rebuilding the engine first just because 5 months is plenty of time to do that….”

LOL Man does that sound like famous last words.

I’m sitting here chuckling because I just got the cam in for an engine I’m building…….it was on backorder for over 4 months. Also right now the machine shop I use is backed up to the point where it’s about 2 months turnaround time to get an engine done.

That being said as your doing a 302 parts availability should be pretty good. Financially you’ll probably be better off buying an engine kit with all the rebuild parts rather than sourcing the parts individually.

Of course until you get the engine torn down and inspected you will not know what to order as far as bearing, piston, and ring sizes. As this is basically your first engine I can’t stress enough that you should have the measuring done by the machine shop and follow their recommendations.

Speaking of machine shops DO YOUR RESEARCH before choosing one. Not all shops or machinists are created equally. I can’t recommend strongly enough that you should check with some of the local car guys to get recommendations before settling on a shop.

If you elect to do your own assembly just keep in mind ultimately it’s up to the assembler to insure that all the parts are correct, the clearances are good and that it’s assembled properly. A good machine shop will stand behind the work they have done but are not responsible if the assembler doesn’t catch an incorrect clearance, gets dirt in the bearings or improperly torques something.

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Fair points all around, thank you. I do have a couple of machine shops in mind (from recommendations) but I do not have their turnaround times. I will have to do that research. Again, I will see how I feel about it after this weekend once I finish taking the EFI off the engine. All current signs indicate that the engine is fine, but let me get a little further down the road with it.

Another option is to spend the time learning how to weld. From what I can tell, the exhaust system will be impossible to implement without at least some welding knowledge. Does that sound about right? I have already priced out a welder from Eastwood and some exhaust tubing and flanges to practice on. That might be the best use of time between now and June.

Of course, if anyone else has other ideas on how to get ready for this build between now & June, I'm all ears. The only thing I know for sure is that the engine is here so I might as well do what I can with it - I really don't want to see this project languish.