Sunday Red: A 1932 Roadster Build Log Started in 2022

I'm doing my best to not let my hands go idle and keep the project moving forward. So I decided to do some color tests and I've also decided to do a valve job on my cylinder heads. Nothing is really wrong with them, I just want to clean them out completely and I'm also going to switch to roller rockers.

https://i.imgur.com/LdUWgqb.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/szPbdh3.jpg
For rattlecan stuff I think these came out pretty good. I followed the instructions to a T and it went on smoothly. The gold was just a fun color to experiment with, I doubt I'll be using it in the final build.

Now, let's talk exterior colors:
https://i.imgur.com/nhOv5DS.jpg
I think this color came out much more on the ruby side than I would like. However, I do think it looks pretty different in sunlight and might be better than what it's showing here.

https://i.imgur.com/WllK8QG.jpg
This one is listed as a hot rod red but it definitely has some strong orange undertones. It's not a terrible color but I'm not in love with it.

Both of these colors are OK but I think I will keep on looking. It's good for me to get these now, hang them up in my garage and live with them for a bit to make sure it's something that I will want to look at long term.

Engine block comes back to me on Thursday and I'm looking forward to that. If the machine shop ended up doing a good job on it, I'll let them handle the cleaning of the cylinder heads too.

I know you will want what you want but... roller rockers won't gain you a thing. But it's your monies..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 34_40

I know you will want what you want but... roller rockers won't gain you a thing. But it's your monies..

---

You think so? What makes you say that?

I’ll take a shot at this one.

I think what Mike is saying is that any HP gains from adding roller rockers to a stock valve train will be so negligible that it won’t be noticeable when driving the car.

I know there are a lot of advertisements out there that claim 15-20 HP gains. What is often not mentioned in many cases is that the rocker in question has a different ratio than the stock rocker and/or the heads are using valve springs with considerably more spring pressure than stock.

Many of the less expensive roller rockers are cheap for a reason (google “roller rocker arm failure images”). Depending on how the rocker comes apart it can easily lead to catastrophic engine failure.

But I’m just an old man…..what do I know. :D



.

Roller rockers do little for performance with stock heads and valve train, quality roller rockers (as in the spendy ones) might add a bit in reliability but only if you intend to put the engine to some high rpm usage. Unless you're going to get some porting done on the heads done on a CNC machine and go to a more aggressive camshaft and heavier valve springs and push rods I doubt you would see anything in performance gains. Then there's also the work necessary to get roller rockers to "work" right, ie centered on the valve. I've ran a number of stock configuration rockers on Ford 5.0's over the years and found the factory pieces work fine through about 5500 RPM, with stock heads and valves the 5.0's are all done making horsepower at not much over 5,000 RPM. Are the cylinders nice enough that they will clean up with only honing, and where will that leave your piston to wall clearance? Invariably the cheapy roller rockers will break even easier then the stock ones! As a PS, there have been a number of threads on CHR concerning how best to set roller rockers in relation to push rod length to get the roller portion of the rocker centered on the valve. If it isn't done correctly aftermarket rockers of dubious quality can push on the valve stem and cause a lot of extra wear on valve guides and undue wear on the valves themselves.

Roller rockers fall into the same category as octane boost, much ado about nothing.

I nearly lost the engine in my coupe due to a roller rocker failure. The pin came out of a roller, the roller got into the adjacent rocker and caused it to break. Running "loose" the lifter fluttered to the point that the pushrod bent and the keeper spring in the top of the lifter popped out but the lifter stayed together. This was as we arrived in Des Moines for the GoodGuys event. Found the broken rocker, got a ride to a shop that had a set of Scorpion's and a couple of pushrods. Replaced the two bad ones, said a prayer and it started and ran just fine. Didn't know about the keeper spring as with everything adjusted the spring doesn't do anything, but a year later I was on my way to meet guys in Oklahoma to drive to the LA Roadster Show and a little piece of that spring got into the oil pump and seized it - zero oil pressure at 70mph but I dumped the clutch and shut it down. A 200 mile flatbed ride home, pulled the pan and started the search for cause.... the oil pump shaft had one and a half twists in it before it sheared.

If you go roller rockers buy the good ones, not no-names, but you're not going to gain anything over stock, and you may actually compromise your reliability. Doing it again I'd use stock rockers but you'll do what you want to do.

I'm seeing a couple of comments/concern over the quality of the rockers I may be choosing. Here is my planned purchase from Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-77780

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JimBeam

I'm seeing a couple of comments/concern over the quality of the rockers I may be choosing. Here is my planned purchase from Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-77780

---

I have been watching this thread and stayed away as I’m more of a SBC guy. I’ve done a few Ford builds in the 289/302 era of Mustangs and Falcons (1960’s) but they were pretty much stock in terms valve trains. The 5.0 you’re working on represents a lot of Ford factory engineering and in my opinion, Ford got a lot of things right and aside from converting to a carbureted from FI and a set of headers, I’d just slap on some eye candy. The rocker arms you’re looking at will add virtually zero in terms of noticeable performance on the street and you won’t even get to see those pretty red aluminum guys at work! To take advantage of what roller rockers were designed for you’d need to dump $10G in the internals and see north of 6,000 RPM on a regular basis – not what you’ve described as your desired outcome.

In my world, $650 is a good chunk of money and for your build, I’d put those dollars into polished aluminum valve covers and a sexy air cleaner setup.

Regards,
Glenn

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by glennsexton

....
In my world, $650 is a good chunk of money and for your build, I’d put those dollars into polished aluminum valve covers and a sexy air cleaner setup.

Regards,
Glenn

---

I agree with Glenn 100%. Apply that $650 to something like gauges, which you'll need.

Who would have thought that so many people were so passionate about rocker arms?:o

Lots of good replies in this thread and I appreciate them all. Here's a picture for you to consider:

https://i.imgur.com/SqKjUWj.jpg

Keep in mind that if I don't go with rollers, this is my alternative. I'm not claiming that this will turn my car into a bullet, but using bearings just has to be better than the friction that is created by the current setup, no? After all, this engine is almost 30 years old. It can't hurt to improve it with a couple of things that have come along since that era, right?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rspears

I agree with Glenn 100%. Apply that $650 to something like gauges, which you'll need.

---

Yes, the discussion of money is a whole other ball of wax. My top priority for this project has always been that I don't want it to languish, I want to finish it relatively quickly - it's called cruising not mechanic-ing :LOL:. I say that knowing full well of the old saying "cheap, fast, good, pick any two". I'm not married, I don't have kids and if I told you what I spend on rent, I'd probably make you cry. My only obligation in life is to myself and my dog. So if this project costs me a couple bucks, that's OK.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JimBeam

I'm seeing a couple of comments/concern over the quality of the rockers I may be choosing. Here is my planned purchase from Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-77780

---

Another consideration, those are not self aligning rocker arms, you will also need to install studs for the rockers and guide plates for the push rods if your heads don't have them. Your stock rockers use a fulcrum for a pivot instead of a ball which also keeps the rocker arms and pushrods in alignment. Your rockers show some wear, if the engine were mine I would replace the stock rockers with new OEM style rockers made for your engine and spend the money on something that would actually improve the build. Did your machine shop check the cylinders for size and roundness? Stock blocks with some mileage tend to have a cylinder or two that are egg shaped a few thousandths which will have an adverse effect on ring seating. How much are they planning to hone the block, and what will your piston to wall clearance be when the block is honed?

I truly admire your enthusiasm and like the fact that you're engaging with us.

When I look at the wear pattern on that 30 year old rocker arm my first thought is that it has been extremely well designed and provided magnificent service – doing exactly what it was intended to do. I would reuse them without a second thought.

Stamped steel rockers routinely run for 200K plus trouble free miles. I’ve reused literally hundreds of them in SBC rebuilds producing north of 400 HP with never a problem. On a few occadsions, I have used roller tips on a build (only to get a consistent 1.52:1 ratio) that routinely enjoy life above 6,000 RPM.

Full roller rocker arms will net you no ascertainable difference in your build and as has been shared above, may bring problems. I too have found the needle bearings from cheap roller rocker arms in an oil pump – not pretty.

I like Roger’s idea - $600 goes a long way toward a full set of AutoMeter gauges!

I decided to do some bench work and get my heads ready for the machine shop. No matter where I land on the rockers, I still need to do these steps, right? So I decided to put my focus there and pretty happy with how it turned out.

One of the things I'm quickly learning is the old saying "use the right tool for the job". I'm learning a lot through this process and I am now sticking to this rule and only using quality tools and nothing else. I tried a couple different ways of removing my valve springs this weekend and all of them were a waste of time. So I bought the best tool I could find on Summit. Yes it cost extra (American made and all that) and I had to wait another day to finish the job BUT once the new tool was in place I was able to finish it out quickly and without frustration. I'm just going to focus on that from now on and use the best tools I can.

I'm going to ask the machine shop to do the best they can on the rust removal and cleaning up the surfaces. Nothing performance, I just want these heads to look the best they can. I will clean up the valves and lap them on my own (tools for that are on the way).

https://i.imgur.com/LxjOXOM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NCsoPQi.jpg

I think these valves came out pretty good for a first pass at them. I will give them a second pass once I have more time. The "before" is on the right and the "after" is on the left.

https://i.imgur.com/FWY5IWn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gua2nqy.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9kVbYRf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7SwEpgD.jpg

Do any of you have experience with something like Evaporust to remove rust from cylinder heads? I want these heads to be as rust-free as possible before painting and I'm trying to come up with the best way to go about this. All the machine shops around town have already told me that there is only so much they can do for rust.

It sounds like you’re doing just a basic overhaul (as opposed to an actual rebuilt). I’m assuming you are planning on new piston rings after you get the block back and are going to be checking the clearances on the rod and main bearings as the engine goes back together.

As long as you’re this far into it I would recommend that your send the valves and heads both into the machine shop. Have the heads checked to for any warpage and milled if necessary. Get the valve guide clearance checked and actually have a valve job done rather than just lapping the valves and throwing the heads back together.

With the heads apart and probably needing at least a little minor milling to get them straight the shop won’t have any problem bead blasting them to get them clean prior to the machine work.

Have the shop assemble the heads for you and that way they can also check spring height and pressure. If the roller rockers are you are planning on are need any additional machine work that can also be handled at this time and most importantly can check for coil bind if the rockers are over the stock ratio.

That will solve one problem for you (removing all the rust and being ready for paint) and you’ll have a pair of heads that will likely seal better, not suck oil, or be damaged on the first fire up (which is basically the crap shoot you’re in now).

If you elect to disregard the above, a wire wheel on a drill or die grinder will do about as well as anything. ACTUAL engine paint will adhere well to just about anything , take the heat and hold it’s color well.


.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike P

It sounds like you’re doing just a basic overhaul (as opposed to an actual rebuilt). I’m assuming you are planning on new piston rings after you get the block back and are going to be checking the clearances on the rod and main bearings as the engine goes back together.

---

Yes, of course. With the exception of the cam and crank, all the internals will be new. My plastigage is ready to go :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike P

That will solve one problem for you (removing all the rust and being ready for paint) and you’ll have a pair of heads that will likely seal better, not suck oil, or be damaged on the first fire up (which is basically the crap shoot you’re in now).

---

Hey, I took a perfectly reasonable engine and broke it into a thousand pieces. This whole project is a crap shoot! :LOL: But that's supposed to be part of the fun, is it not?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike P

If you elect to disregard the above, a wire wheel on a drill or die grinder will do about as well as anything. ACTUAL engine paint will adhere well to just about anything , take the heat and hold it’s color well.

---

I have gone ahead and ordered some of the Evaporust and I'm going to see where I end up with it. The online examples are quite promising and I like a DIY approach to the heads. I have my Duplicolor primer ready to go as soon as they come out rust free.

Dave, Glenn & Mike have all given you great advice. Since you disassembled the engine it only makes sense to have the machine shop check the cylinders, alignment, and block/heads, plus balance the rotating parts. Putting those heads back together without grinding the valves/seats and checking the springs is silly.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rspears

Dave, Glenn & Mike have all given you great advice. Since you disassembled the engine it only makes sense to have the machine shop check the cylinders, alignment, and block/heads, plus balance the rotating parts. Putting those heads back together without grinding the valves/seats and checking the springs is silly.

---

The engine block is at the machine shop now. Comes back on Thursday.

JimBeam, you and I were typing at the same time following the post from Mike P, and had I seen your response to Mike I would not have wasted time on my post. Had you not quoted my post above I would replace the words with "Good luck on your build." You've obviously already made up your mind on everything and aren't really interested in anyone's advice.

Turn out the lights the party's over.

UnvleTonysGarage recently did a YouTube video showing how to paint the block on the dirt cheap, using Rustoleum brush as pplied paints. I'm giving it a try on my next build.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

UnvleTonysGarage recently did a YouTube video showing how to paint the block on the dirt cheap, using Rustoleum brush as pplied paints. I'm giving it a try on my next build.

---

This the one, Firebird? https://bangshift.com/general-news/t...e_L6j-L-IlgEnM

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

UnvleTonysGarage recently did a YouTube video showing how to paint the block on the dirt cheap, using Rustoleum brush as pplied paints. I'm giving it a try on my next build.

---

Hey that sounds interesting. Please post pics once you're done, I might try it too. I have been waffling between using a spray can or a brush to do the painting. The brush certainly gives you more control.

When you get the block back from the machine shop make sure you really scrub that baby down with hot soapy water. I like Dawn dish washing liquid and water straight from the bottom of the water heater. Put the block on the engine stand and dry with compressed air really well. As a final preparation step, wipe everything down with prep solvent on a lint-free rag (I like cotton t-shirts).

Make sure you have a 55 degree or warmer day and paint the inside of the engine. Use Glyptal. Its $50 a quart from Eastwood – buy the brush on and a quart will do the job real nice (I use the disposable “China” bristle brushes from Harbor Freight). Also paint the exterior at this time too. Let everything dry real well – at least 48 hours.

I’ve used brush on and spray for the exterior color and to be honest, they both come out real nice. The rough surface of the cast iron negates any advantage that spraying has in terms of laying down smooth and a brush is easier to control – especially in the tight places. Make sure you mask all mating surfaces with easy release painters tape (I use the yellow stuff from 3M but the blue is fine).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by glennsexton

When you get the block back from the machine shop make sure you really scrub that baby down with hot soapy water. I like Dawn dish washing liquid and water straight from the bottom of the water heater. Put the block on the engine stand and dry with compressed air really well. As a final preparation step, wipe everything down with prep solvent on a lint-free rag (I like cotton t-shirts).

Make sure you have a 55 degree or warmer day and paint the inside of the engine. Use Glyptal. Its $50 a quart from Eastwood – buy the brush on and a quart will do the job real nice (I use the disposable “China” bristle brushes from Harbor Freight). Also paint the exterior at this time too. Let everything dry real well – at least 48 hours.

I’ve used brush on and spray for the exterior color and to be honest, they both come out real nice. The rough surface of the cast iron negates any advantage that spraying has in terms of laying down smooth and a brush is easier to control – especially in the tight places. Make sure you mask all mating surfaces with easy release painters tape (I use the yellow stuff from 3M but the blue is fine).

---

Thanks for that. I think I've settled on paintbrush over can. The can stuff I did this last weekend came out great but just too much overspray and I don't want to risk that on engine surfaces. So I'll just take my time with it and use a brush instead. I get the block back either Thursday or Friday so I'll just use the weekend to paint it.

Oh Father forgive me.. but I can see it now....:eek: :rolleyes:**)

Slow weekend with the car project. I just did some shopping at Home Depot to get ready for the engine block paint. Someone here made a mention to the UTG channel and I'm going to follow that method for painting. I bought all the supplies this morning and now just waiting for everything to get back from the machine shop.

Decided to go into my garage and do a little clean-up, just keep my hands busy. I started thinking about headers for my build. I know I'm going to need something that really hugs the engine block and stays within the 32 chassis. I think I can get away with reusing the ones that are already on the engine. I'll have to find a cap to cover whatever sensor that is on the passenger side (airflow/oxygen?) but that shouldn't be too hard to overcome.

To be sure they are going to need some work because they are pretty rusty but I think they hug the engine pretty well now, hard to imagine another set that can do a better job than this. What do you all think?
https://i.imgur.com/dKDZ42v.jpg

I'll give this another try.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JimBeam

Slow weekend with the car project. I just did some shopping at Home Depot to get ready for the engine block paint. Someone here made a mention to the UTG channel and I'm going to follow that method for painting. I bought all the supplies this morning and now just waiting for everything to get back from the machine shop.

---

You would be wise to follow Glenn Sexton's advice on prepping the block and painting internal surfaces before blindly following Uncle Tony's Garage or some other YouTube video.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JimBeam

Decided to go into my garage and do a little clean-up, just keep my hands busy. I started thinking about headers for my build. I know I'm going to need something that really hugs the engine block and stays within the 32 chassis. I think I can get away with reusing the ones that are already on the engine. I'll have to find a cap to cover whatever sensor that is on the passenger side (airflow/oxygen?) but that shouldn't be too hard to overcome.

To be sure they are going to need some work because they are pretty rusty but I think they hug the engine pretty well now, hard to imagine another set that can do a better job than this. What do you all think?

---

You've not said if you plan to run a hood or not, but your header choice for a cruiser is more flash than performance either way. I would be looking at aftermarket headers over using the ugly mass production OEM parts, and would go with ceramic coated if you can. If you want inside the frame there are block huggers/tight fit headers that are drop down or rear exit, and if you're wanting more flash/no hood there lakes style with drop outs to tuck under for mufflers. Speedway has a bunch to look at with easy navigation for sorting - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/...-225-13-11-524 Many of them are available from Summit, too, but Speedway is a great source for hot rods and are great to work with. I would want to have my engine & tranny sitting in the chassis before deciding on headers and exhaust routing inside the frame rails but that's just me.

The question on the hood is a good one. I have done some basic research with my DMV and it looks like my state does require a hood and cowl on all cars (at least during registration inspection . . . ). So, yes I will be needing one and I am trying to account for that in all of my choices.

I'd agree with Mr. Spears, Block Huggers are quick and easy, send them out to a company like Jet Hot and have'em coated internally and externally, not cheap but works well.
But, the special port could be removed and weld a cover over it.. I can't say if the pipe flanges will clear the frame. So once the motor is bolted in you could find that out.

Trying to enjoy as much of my holiday as possible and staying away from work. I had another paint sample arrive last week so I decided to hang that up in my shop next to all the other contenders. I think I like this shade of red best so far - it's not a pure red but it is not as ruby as the other ones and doesn't show much signs of an orange undertone (which is way too common in red shades).

https://i.imgur.com/INhpYAp.jpg

Here it is against all the other contenders
https://i.imgur.com/Mfm06Go.jpg

Headers tend to be a hotly debated subject (pun intended). Over the years I have used products from Sanderson, Hooker, Hedman, and Doug Thorley – probably some others I just don’t remember of the top of my head. Headers, for the most part, rarely improve the performance of street driven car but they look cool and “everyone is an expert” in terms of what they do. In actuality, they have one purpose – to remove spent gases in the most efficient manner possible. The folks at the factory have done all the homework and it’s tough to improve on stock exhaust manifolds in terms of performance under 3,500 RPM (where 90 percent of all driving occurs). It’s a different story on a drag strip where the engine is spinning significantly more RPMs and the headers are open and that’s why serious consideration is given to the use of open “zoomies” on rails and funny cars. I had Hooker straight shot headers on a Harley Sportster that were ceramic coated inside. They never blued, sounded cool and at about 3,000 RPM there was a noticable difference in the "seat-of-the-pants" that I just loved. Unfortunately they were quite loud and the local authority having jurisdiction reminded me of such (on more than one occasion) - causing me to install a set of baffles to tone them down.

That said, I do so like a set of good looking headers on a hot rod! Your’s will be obvious and as such, I’m with Roger - a nice set of ceramic coated from Hooker (my personal favorite) would look really good. They won’t add a noticeable difference in performance in the driving you’ll likely be doing but they add a lot in the aesthetic department. While stainless steel is durable, they will blue whereas the ceramic headers stay a nice brushed silver color for long time.

My two cents..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JimBeam

The question on the hood is a good one. I have done some basic research with my DMV and it looks like my state does require a hood and cowl on all cars (at least during registration inspection . . . ). So, yes I will be needing one and I am trying to account for that in all of my choices.

---

I'd be very surprised with the requirement for a hood for registration. Here's a link to the SEMA Tool Box on Registration, state by state that is helpful - https://www.semasan.com/semaga/TagTitleToolbox_NV.pdf

Second, here's a link to a listing of Nevada Car Clubs - https://www.classiccarcommunity.com/car-club/state/nv/ You really, really need to hook up with people who know the hot rod scene in Nevada. Just looking at the SEMA information they have a large number of classifications, and most seem to be tied to original iron by year. I'm not sure how Nevada DMV looks at fiberglass bodied cars, but YOU need to know, and you'd be smart to talk to guys who've been through the process before instead of guessing.
Another excellent resource is the NSRA Fellows Listing - Members who have made their contact info available to help other members who might have trouble on the road. You have to join NSRA to access the list, and my membership has lapsed - https://nsra-usa.com/fellow-pages/

The cylinder heads, crank and cam are all back from the machine shop. Waiting on them to finish the block, will pick it up tomorrow. Crank came out .10 for the main and .10 for the rod. Everything else should be standard, I don't think they even touched the camshaft because it was perfectly fine. Really happy with the work they did, all the surfaces look pretty good and they ran a tap through anything I'm going to touch during the build. Now need to start ordering all the parts I'm going to need to put this whole thing back together!
https://i.imgur.com/EAcarbx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2DVQXF6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IoYErrj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/u7ZmKFd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8OAS09C.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eU8Hh9C.jpg

Inquiring Minds Wonder:
We love pictures, and yours are great but....
1) Did the machine shop grind the valves or just reassemble the heads?
2) You say "Crank came out .10 for the main and .10 for the rod. Everything else should be standard." What is "Everything else?"
3) You say "I don't think they even touched the camshaft because it was perfectly fine." What would you expect the machine shop to DO to a camshaft, and why would you even send it to them? Sounds like you're planning to re-install the stock cam vs buying an aftermarket, so why?
Just trying to understand your process, and not trying to be critical in any way but answers to all three questions would be appreciated.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rspears

Inquiring Minds Wonder:
We love pictures, and yours are great but....
1) Did the machine shop grind the valves or just reassemble the heads?
2) You say "Crank came out .10 for the main and .10 for the rod. Everything else should be standard." What is "Everything else?"
3) You say "I don't think they even touched the camshaft because it was perfectly fine." What would you expect the machine shop to DO to a camshaft, and why would you even send it to them? Sounds like you're planning to re-install the stock cam vs buying an aftermarket, so why?
Just trying to understand your process, and not trying to be critical in any way but answers to all three questions would be appreciated.

---

Bump to Today

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rspears

Inquiring Minds Wonder:
We love pictures, and yours are great but....
1) Did the machine shop grind the valves or just reassemble the heads?
2) You say "Crank came out .10 for the main and .10 for the rod. Everything else should be standard." What is "Everything else?"
3) You say "I don't think they even touched the camshaft because it was perfectly fine." What would you expect the machine shop to DO to a camshaft, and why would you even send it to them? Sounds like you're planning to re-install the stock cam vs buying an aftermarket, so why?
4) Are you doing away with the ECM/Computer and stock distributor?

Just trying to understand your process, and not trying to be critical in any way but answers to all three questions would be appreciated.

---

My questions remain active, but I had a thought about your camshaft. You mentioned earlier that you were getting rid of the EFI, which I'm assuming (though it's dangerous to assume) means that you're also getting rid of the ECM/Computer too, right? (Question #4, added) That stock cam grind is for a variable timing setup, with the total advance mapped against RPM while considering the A/F ratio, barometric pressure and knock sensors. I'm thinking that it may not be the best profile for a fixed curve distributor, but I'm not really sure. At a minimum I would talk to a Tech at one of the aftermarket cam companies. Perhaps one of the others who are more versed on cam selection can chime in after you confirm or clarify your intent on your engine build?