Bump the secondaries up one and it should pull better at higher rpm (that's where the secondaries work).
Is the 13-14 at just off idle (low speed cruise) and the 15-16 at high cruise? Where is the accelerator pump set?
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Bump the secondaries up one and it should pull better at higher rpm (that's where the secondaries work).
Is the 13-14 at just off idle (low speed cruise) and the 15-16 at high cruise? Where is the accelerator pump set?
The 13-14 is at cruising speed and it will climb going up a slight hill or just giving it a little gas. It comes right back down again when you give it a little more gas. I don't notice anything except for the gauge climbing.Cruise rpms are 2500-2700. I had the pump on the slow hole and I have it back in the center one now, is that used during cruise? I got a pic of a very white plug. It was just starting to brown a bit at the tip, can't see it well in the pics.
Accelerator pump is not active at steady cruise, but should come in as you give it gas. Moving it up a notch should stop the lean out as you give it a little gas, other wise cruise it great.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
Plug looks a little lean at idle (I like to see a full ring of color around the face), give it 1/8 turn more open on the idle mixture screws. Plug looks too hot, needs a colder plug.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
What is your total timing set at?
I have my total timing set at 34°
I think we got it running good for now. I went back to the 58/44 rods and that seem to help with the leaning out going up a hill, not perfect yet but better. I bumped the timing up to 36 total, and it's running it about 13.5 Cruise and the step up is 12.5 ish. It's hard to tell I swear it changes every night. I did replace my fuel pump because last time I drained the carburetor I had to crank forever to get it to fill up again. I checked and sure enough the diaphragm was leaking, but it was holding 6 psi . Maybe it was getting worse as it warmed up down the road and that possibly accounted for some changes to. The only thing I might change is the secondary orifice to a size up, but I'm not sure if I'm going to do that right away or just drive it. Anyhow thanks for everybody's help on this thing, especially 36 Sedan! , it's running better than it ever has since I've owned it. I'll pull the plugs again after he is driven more and look at the burn pattern too. If there's one thing I've learned, I now can laugh inside now when somebody says yeah I threw on a 750 and now it runs awesome! It maybe does, but without tuning it you're just throwing darts with your eyes closed.
I've stayed out of this 'cause to many cooks... you know?
But, now is when you watch and record the output from your A/F gauge. wait for a minimum of 3 readings on different days to decide on a change.
If you make a change and the air is different the next day, you could actually decide to un-do changes that were for the better!
This is the major drawback to a carb, it's dependent on so many things that change daily / hourly etc. Now that your in good shape, watch / wait and see which way the readings are working before you decide on change.
FWIW, My point oh 2, etc etc etc.. yada yada yada.. imho... if 36 tells you different, do what he says! nod nod wink wink..
34-40 as always you give good advice.
Once the carb is dialed that is exactly how to use the gauge. Right now we are at that point once (and it’s abig once) the plug’s reflect the AFR readings. At present his plugs read too hot, needed to be cooled a step or two, then we’ll start seeing a true representation of what’s happening inside the cylinders.
We’ve come a long way from where it was to where it needs to be, the finish line is in sight.
And the big moral to this story is “All carburetors Benefit from being tuned.”
Would tightening the gap on the plugs cool them down? It's a brand new set of Autolight plugs, and I gapped them them to 60 per what the sticker said on the radiator support, but now I read that and they knocked it down to 45 for specs. I thought 60 seemed kind of wide. The reason why my timing is at 36 now is because I adjusted the vacuum advance up 2° with the distributor forgetting that I had an adjustable vacuum advance lol. I will bring that back down to 34 to help cool things off as well. It's been about 90° with 70% humidity here lately, I'm curious to what the AFR readings will be when the outside temp and humidity go down.
Tuning a motor usually requires several sets of plugs, the cost of plugs is relatively cheap compared to the cost of hiring a tuner. I'm proud of you, you have gained the knowledge and confidence to do it yourself! My only charge is that you pass it on to others so they too can learn and have fun!
The gap won't change the heat range of the plug, that's determined by the porcelain inside the plug and how fast it transfers the heat to the plug base, usually shorter porcelain is a cooler plug. The strap and threads on your plug show too much heat, performance will benefit from a cooler plug.
Set plug gap at .035, usually high performance motors like a tighter gap (even with HEI). 36° total timing is ok if the motor likes it (some head designs don't), 2° can make a difference as long as it doesn't ping.
Ignore all the tuning specs on the radiator, those are factory recommendations and you are way beyond that now. Keep a log of all changes and their results for future references.
AND most of all, ENJOY!!
It's very cool to see the bird out from it's death sentence, I mean staycation. :LOL: That was a long read but very good that you were able to get it tuned in with good help from members here. Reading this thread made me question my choices on my 40. But hopefully 2020 is the year to get immobile rides mobile? :LOL:
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Death sentence in the garage? That poor car has seen more 3 digit speeds, smoke rolling, and getting beaten like a red head step child that it's seen in years, It's begging to get back in the garage :LOL: In all reality my end goal for the car is a LSX with a 6 speed swap, I just can't get it out of my head**) I'm trying tuning it but once again it got stuck on the side burner till Rita gets its tow package and a clean bill of health for the Black Hills trip ( not to mention all the other to-do lists around the place )Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Just my point oh two, but if you do go the LS route, just get a holley terminator setup from the get go and party time. :LOL:
Sorry 36, I feel kind of bad about this because of all the advice and help you gave on on tuning a carb, but I did the unthinkable, I bought Holley Sniper for the T/A. It all started when I found a new Pontiac Sniper distributor for the cheap on swap, then I thought I might as well buy the rest of it too. I'm hoping to get it put on this winter and have my dyno guy tune it in on the dyno for $400, I guess he's pretty good at it. The more you dig into it, there is a lot more tuning on these that is available if you want to put in the effort.
No worries, I had fun with you in the journey! EFI definitely has advantages in performance and motor life, I've considered it myself. LOL
Keep us posted on how it does.
Have a nice Holley for sale if you need one :)
I had a good day putting my tanks inc fuel pump in, it really did not go too bad. I will be able to use most of my original hard line
To go up to the sniper unit. I thought the engine bay looked pretty gross so I tore the fender wells out and took all the brackets off so I can power wash it off and repaint most of it. The brake booster and master cylinder need a paint job the worst. I put the newly painted intake on to seal up the motor so I can power wash it off, I couldn't help but set the sniper on it.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fHsY1KsLjxMzynpQ8
Should look real nice once you're through. Bit of crud in the tank!?!?! How did you get it out?
Keep going, it will be less for me to have to do once you give in to temptation and sell it to me ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
Bill S.
It's a 4 1/2 inch hole so it was pretty easy to get my whole arm in to vacuum it and wipe everything clean.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
You must have taken some advice from Ryan, he kept hounding me until I finally sold him my Camaro lolQuote:
Originally Posted by mrmustang
Ryan is just an amateur, I recently took possession of a car I've been chasing after since 1996.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
Bill S.
What did you get?Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmustang
Started a stand alone thread for the answer so as to not take away from your build thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
CLICK HERE
Bill S.
Getting a bit further on the Sniper. Got the motor bay cleaned up a bit and getting some wires run. I'm trying to hide the Sniper and the Dual Spark the best I can, I am having trouble finding a hiding spot for the coil. I don't know what the deal is but I work on it for a couple hours a few nights a week and that's about it. I used to work on these things till midnight and drink a 6 pack and smoke 1/2 pack of cigs to help keep me occupied. I suppose getting on the upper side of my 40's is different than my 20's :LOL::LOL:
Engine bay is way better.
Looking forward to seeing how the sniper works out. Are you going to use the timing control or just use the injection part?
I've been kicking around using using a sniper on the the old Hemi I'm currently building so I'm definitely interesting in seeing what your impressions are.
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I'm using the timing control as well, I figured I might as well not do it halfway. I'm on a Holley sniper page and I've watched a ton of videos on tuning. It might be a bit overwhelming for me so I might pay The $550 to have it dyno tuned, not completely decided yet. I guess the guys really good at it. Don't look at the Holley Facebook page if you want to feel confident about your purchase, there's a lot of people talking crap about them. From what I've read and noticed, most are from poor wiring on their installs, I guess when you go to a tech page you're only going to hear about problems lol. On regular car groups, people give them awsome reviews.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
I'm looking forward to hearing about your Sniper experience, too! One thing I learned is the importance of running the ECU power direct from the battery post. I have a 00 gauge cable running from the battery in the trunk to a bulkhead connector up front, bottom of the firewall to go inside, which also feeds the starter. I figured it was "good enough" considering voltage drop but was having starting problems. An Edelbrock Tech was logged onto my ECU, watching as I cranked it and said my injector voltage was dropping to just over 9V, not enough to fire every lick. A #10 direct to the battery fixed it!
Roger, what Edelbrock set up do you have? The pro Flow 4? I am taking no chances with grounds and power, everything going to be by the book on this one.
We're back to timing on the T/A :) I got the Hyperspark and Sniper installed so I can mess with the timing with a keyboard now. I'm finding out my engine likes to ping pretty easy while I'm trying to mimic my mechanical & vacuum curve. My question is on a mechanical dist, if the mechanical advance it at maxed out at 34 with the weights, does the vacuum advance it 10 or so deg above that if the vacuum is available at cruising speeds?
Seth, I'm sorry, I missed your post/question. It's the ProFlow XT from 10 years ago. They only did 10 for the small block Ford engine, and discontinued it, I believe due to flow distribution issues in the tunnel ram type manifold.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
The weights and vacuum diaphragm both move the same plate, so once you max out you're done. At cruise I would think your weights wouldn't be maxed out, so vacuum could give you more timing, but only to your 34 degree limit.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
Roger you took 2 sentences to explain what I gave up on after half a page LOL.
Basically your just trying to dial in your total and insuring it doesn't come in too quickly.
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That's what I was thinking. I'm going to have to change the parameters on the table to represent that better. Thanks.
Seth, the vacuum advance really only works "Around town"... it keeps timing earlier during lower rpm, as you raise rpm the vacuum does less and less, higher rpm's are then controlled by the centrifugal weights. When folks say "All in by some number", it means that there is no advance left to give. So if you max the advance at say 2500 rpm, there won't be any more timing input until the rpm's come back down.. say like 2400... General rule of thumb for max advance is to keep it at 30 degrees total. Then once you're sure the combo of air/fuel is good -then move up the total to 32 then 34 if all is working well. You may never reach those top 2 settings as pre-ignition and detonation are easy to induce.
The hyperspark has a offset setting you put in to mimic vacuum advance but it seems to raise the all in timing too much. If it's all controlled with a computer I'm not sure why I can't put in 10 for crank timing 22 at idle and ramp it up to 30ish at 2700 and call it a good start. If you can see the numbers in my chart you can see where I get into trouble. If you look at the very top line of my chart, those are my base values, and the rest is what happens after I add plus 20 of vacuum advance.
My msd does the same thing. 10 for crank and at idle should be fine, then let the controls dial it all in by 2500. I have mine set so the "vacuum" setting only works from idle to 15 or 16 hundred rpm... and Vacuum Advance is used at lower rpm, NOT above say 1600.. then it's all centrifugal. You can actually "lock out" the advance I believe. ( I know mine can) After starting, I can have it go to 30 degrees and just stay there. That helps with easy starts and takes all the guessing out of the way.
got the Sniper on my T/A tuned today.I no longer watch the fuel guage drop while I drive and it runs way better than it did before. It is a pretty mild engine build so it only had 275 hp and 350 lbs of torque but thats still about 75 hp more than factory lol. its pretty sad that the most powerful car I have ever owned is Rita or my 13 Impala, they both have 300 hp Here's a video of the dyno.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...Psu-ua_ZvBHrfE
I got a "404" error.. any one else?
I’m enjoying following this thread Seth……I suspect it will end up saving me some confusion down the road.
I did what you warned me about though, and read some more on the forums and yeah :eek: more :confused:
The current one I have is in regards to the intake. One guy seemed to be disappointed in performance of the Sniper and he diagnosed it down to using a dual plane intake with a plenum divider. He changed over to single plane intake and is apparently much happier.
As I recall the intake you’re using is a dual plane with divider (stock intake (?) ). I realize you are still dialing it in but I was wondering what your take on single vs dual plane intake with the Snipers is. Seems somebody put a dual plane with divider on the last engine he built :D
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Yep, Google says the link to the photos isn't linked.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40