Did it surging go away at WOT?
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Did it surging go away at WOT?
No it did not, it was far far worse. I got the go ahead to spend the money for Sniper from the wife, but to do it correctly in the way that I want, I would be in at about 1,800 bucks conservatively. I'm having a hard time hitting the buy it now button. I asked about the sniper on a trans am page I belong to and anybody who has it loves it, but there was a guy who mentioned the Street Demon carburetor from Holley that he absolutely loves. I have done much much Google searching and YouTube searching and I have yet to find someone who does not love it. I can pick one of them up for $363 so I'll probably be in it right around 425 when it's all said and done. It's not that I'm against spending extra if I have to, but I don't know if I really have to.Quote:
Originally Posted by 36 sedan
Remember, carburetors are completely mechanical, ALL carburetor need to be tuned to your motor. PERIOD. No carburetor comes out of the box completely ready to run on all motors. And all carburetors require tinkering to keep them at their best performance. While the Street Demon may run good on one motor there's no guarantee it will run out of the box good on your motor.
The only guarantee is, if it's tuned to your motor it will run great. The same goes for the distributor.
I'm a real glutton for punishment, I run dual quads (2x4's). LOL
Well 36, If you want the job , I might give this quadrajet another shot. Just for curiosity's sake, this morning before work I pulled the lid off of it and I found that the primary needles piston was stuck in the bore from sitting so long. It actually took quite a yank with my pliers to get him to come out, I'm guessing that's going to help a lot of my drivability issues lol.
It'll make a big difference. Knowing that, it would be a good idea to clean out all the air bleeds and fuel passages with some carb cleaner and compressed air.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
Here's a parts link;
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/quadrajetparts.html
Well, the stuck primary needles didn't help as much as I was hoping. The the regular driving was better of course but now it seemed like I had to burn the clutch quite a bit taking off or it would die. That was a new problem and the last. Christian and I took off the carb and intake and I got a new Holley Street Demon 750 coming. I was going to put on a Edelbrock Performer intake but I found out that it's not that great and the Pontiac one flows just as good, at least that's what I was told. I was going to replace the gaskets anyway just because I was going to leave nothing to chance. I also ordered an adjustable vacuum advance, and weight springs for the HEI to get the timing dialed in better. After that is was putting new door bushings in the drivers door, I hate that job a lot and it didn't go that well but we got it. In the last pick I had some color samples for floor mats but you'll notice a Kenny Rogers tape in shiftier console. My wife found that one and ABBA at a yard sale and I was pretty jacked up about jamming to some ABBA but my excitement left when I found the tape deck doesn't work.I'm sure the belt rotted off , not a surprise :(
And I was diggin' on the leopard print seat cover! HAH! 8-)
Sounds like you had a frustrating day.
I've got bunches of cassettes, I doubt they would match Christian's taste in music but he'd sure be welcome to some of them!Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
I don't think they made cassettes with his type of music on them lol, It was more for me. To fix the cassette player I would have to pull it back out of the dash, I don't know if you've ever taken a radio out of a trans am, but I don't think It will be worth it.
Look on the bright side, at least you won't be picking up tangled/mangled magnetic tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
Get a radio/mp3 adapter and play all the music you want;
https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Blue..._rd_i=13981621
Things keep getting easier. The radio works, that's good enough for me. My wife will never let it happen if she's with me, but I can drive for hours with the radio off, It's kind of nice just to tune everything out for a while.
I like the Brothel Red velvet interior! ;)
LMAO������ they officially call it FirethornQuote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Waiting on the Fed Ex guy to bring my intake this morning but in the mean time I had Christian do something I've never done. He is putting the adjustable vacuum advance kit in the dist. He always says he hates me after I take his picture :LOL:
We got the intake in the street demon bolted on. It was a race against the clock because I had to leave at 3:00 so I didn't get to test drive it. It sure runs good and it's more snappy than it's ever been. Monday I'll try to get the timing set a little better and fix a few leaks and then take it for a drive.
What do I do with this distributor? We got the kit in but I'm not sure how to adjust everything right. I got base at about 12, vacuum is at about 24 manifold vacuum and mech total is around 29. How do you balance this all out? if I advance the total to 34 then the base goes too high and what should I do with the vacuum, manifold vacuum or port. If I go to port, wouldn't that cancel out the mechanical weights? I feel kinda dumb asking elementary questions like this but I don't think I've ever messed with this very much before.
You had better find yourself a good mechanic.
Do you know of any?
:) :) :) :)
(Just pokin' the bear Seth, just pokin' the bear...no malice intended!)
Sometimes I think Ryan is right about these spark plug engines ��Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboy
UGH.. so many questions! :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
What is this kit??? is it controlling when timing cones in? how is it being adjusted? Did the kit provide instructions?
What you're calling "Base" is the reading on the TAB without vacuum connected? Yes/No? 10 or 12 degrees should work fine. ( if I'm reading this right)
The 24 is when you connect the vacuum line? I'd prefer manifold vacuum source, but some tuners like the Ported connection
And with the vacuum dis-connected, and you're spinning the motor up, what is the maximum timing you can read and at what RPM?
See, MORE questions!!! :eek::LOL:
Lol. The kit is just a adjustable vacuum advance kit from MSD. Base timing is with the vacuum advance disconnected, I plug it in, it goes to 24 which I can adjust with the adjustable vacuum canister. my biggest thing is with the mechanical weights at the end. I can swap out springs to speed it up or slow it down but how do you actually change the timing to advance it more or retard it more, If I turn the distributor to adjust it, it throws the base timing out of whack.Another thing I do not quite understand is manifold vacuum versus ported vacuum.If I use ported vacuum, wouldn't that completely make the mechanical weights obsolete because the vacuum increases as you rev the engine up therefore advancing the timing?. I feel like I'm 15 again lol
There is tons of info out there about manifold vacuum vs ported. Here is one good article.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ever...nition-timing/
The short version? Use manifold vacuum for best performance. It gives you a better, smoother idle, better throttle response, and the engine will run cooler at idle. Ported vacuum was a half baked idea used to improve emissions in the 1970’s.
I’m not sure if I understand your other question. Turning the distributer is how you adjust the base timing. Changing springs will affect at what RPM will the mechanical (centrifugal) come in. You probably want all of the centrifugal advance in by about 2500 to 3000 RPM.
This is what I don't understand. Let's say my base timing is 10° and my total advance is 20° If I want my total advance
To be at 30 then I would have to advance my distributor 10°. If I do that then my base timing will be at 20° instead of 10°.That is what I don't understand, is how you can adjust the base without affecting the total or adjust the total without affecting the base.
Changing the base timing is always going to change your total timing. To change the total timing separately, you have to physically modify the mechanical advance assembly. You can’t do it by changing springs.
Thanks, that's kind of what I was wondering but not what I was hoping.
Took it for the first test drive tonight. Holy cow did that thing wake up! I got a mess with the total advance, I got it set at 34 but my base timing is way too high now but for test driving down the road I didn't figure it bother. I think I'll have to get a little bit heavier springs for the secondaries, it seems to be a little bit too much at first but it does come out of it. for the first time in a very long time, I have to let off the gas in first gear or it won't stop spinning the tires, second gear is now more of a squawk than a chirp, and I actually got a chirp out of third gear lol. I'll get a few more things squared away on it like the timing and I think we're going to call it good for now. Sometimes I get sick of dingering with things lol.
Base timing you've got down pat! Great. Don't even think about the vacuum advance for the moment.
The total timing is somewhat adjustable, you can "manipulate" the weights to a point and squeak out more total movement which is to say the "total movement" of the cam advance at the top of the dizzy... which becomes the total number for your advance.. clear as mud yet? LOL... IF you have to much total advance you can damage the engine but you'll usually hear pinging and knocking / pre-ignition... I'm sure you know the sounds, and it sounds like you're not there just yet. If you're base is ten, and your mechanical total is 34 and the motor is still happy? I'd say it's a winner! The weights and springs will only affect how quickly you achieve the total, generally you want to reach total timing as quickly as you can. Provided it isn't pinging, banging bucking.
The vacuum advance will bring in or out advance depending on motor loading. As the throttle goes down, the vacuum goes down, at wide open throttle the vacuum advance does nothing. If your using manifold vacuum, and it shows 24 degrees btdc, great, once you open the throttle as vacuum drops the vacuum can becomes less effective but the mechanical advance is coming on as rpm increases. So one compliments the other is the easy answer.. HTH
I think for tomorrow night I'm going to get the base set back to 10 to 12 degrees, and then see what I can do with my total advance. The vacuum advance is no problem because I can adjust that wherever I need to. I'm not going to lie, at this point the 5.3 was the best thing I ever did to Rita , plug it in and go lol.
What is your base (initial) timing set at right now? If it’s not pinging, and it starts ok, you might just want to leave it alone. It sounds like the engine is pretty happy.
Set TOTAL timing at 4000 rpm, let the initial timing be what it ends up at (probably be 12-16°), if it idles too high (carb won't adjust down), move the vacuum advance from manifold to ported. Adjust your mechanical to be all in by 2500 rpm. AND HOLD ON....
Right now my base timing is close to 20° I would like to get it down to at least 16, but honestly it does start fine even when it's hot. You guys are making this easier for me, I was kind of wondering about leaving the initial timing alone, from what I understand, that's mainly for the starting ?
If I set my mechanical to be all in at 2500, is it necessary to go all the way to 4000 with a timing light? Wouldn't it be the same as 2500?Quote:
Originally Posted by 36 sedan
If the mechanical advance is all the way in by 2500 RPM, the timing will likely retard about 2 or 3 degrees at 4000 RPM due to the timing chain stretching. I personally prefer not to rev a stock engine that high without a load on it.
If you're at 20°, either your vacuum advance is hook up while your checking or your idle speed is high and bringing in mechanical advance.
If your mechanic advance is all in at 2500 rpm that will be your TOTAL, and that's OK, BUT, check it at the higher rpm to be sure. Not unusual to see stock timing curves still advancing clear up to 4000 rpm. If that's the case, you'll leave a lot of horsepower on the table if you don't check it and fix it. You will only be at 4000 momentarily.
Something must be goofed up, 20 is at 750 RPM with the vacuum advance disconnected .I was asking questions earlier about full advance and initial timing because I was having this problem. I better take a closer look at some things. I will double check, but it seemed like I was all in at about 2200
No, vacuum advance wether manifold or ported sourced will not effect your mechanical, they are two separate things.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
And, the only difference between manifold and ported is when the vacuum advance starts. Manifold is at idle through cruise rpm, ported is off at idle and comes on at cruise rpm. Ported is also known as TIMED because it comes on later.
Simply put, vacuum advance is an economizer, it has nothing to do with performance. In theory, at idle and cruise speeds the motor can use more advance to burn leaner mixtures. However, I'm a big believer in giving the motor what the motor wants.
If the advance at idle brings the idle speed up too high, plug it into ported, you'll still have it at cruise for economy. If it idles good on manifold great, leave it there.
Sounds like your curve is starting too soon, put heavy springs in it and check it, if the base timing comes down that's the culprit (your idle speed will drop too). You'll have to start moving springs around to get it dialed in. Try a heavy spring with a light spring. It's OK to mix and match the springs to get what you need.Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
Double post
I'm not see your post other than the above???Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5
Is there another problem?