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Thread: Stude M5 build
          
   
   

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  1. #316
    Mike P's Avatar
    Mike P is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    “…….I know, it's been 2 years and it looks like I'm in the same place!..........”


    Don’t feel bad I ran a 15 year build on this site. It would not be unusual for the 37 to be on hold for a coule of years as at a time.

    “……..I just have to come up with a plan how I'm going to do it. Be easier if I didn't paint everything at once but I have a feeling the metallic isn't going to match. It would be a crazy amount of stuff in my little space to do all together though. All the cars I've painted in the past were together not scattered in a million pieces like this old thing………”

    Just my 2 cents. When I did my old 76 Dodge truck years ago I painted everything separately as you are planning on. I used a single stage white (non metallic) urethane for color, mixed the cans together prior to shooting anything. Should have been a “perfect” paint job

    The parts were painted at different times as space allowed. For some reason when the parts were assembled you could tell the difference in the color (not a1/2 shade off more like a 1/4 or 1/8 shade) it wasn’t to noticeable to anyone but me but we’re generally our own worst critics and when we build something we know where all the flaws are (and in my case that’s generally where my eyes went first).

    Then of course there was the walking on egg shells when the parts were put together to make sure I didn’t scratch anything assembling it.

    In hindsight I decided if I ever did another frame off that I’d go ahead and do the jambs etc then assemble the vehicle and paint it whole (that would be especially true if I was going to do metallic).

    Just my thoughts.



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    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  2. #317
    v8nutz's Avatar
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    Thanks Mike, that is my concern for sure, and metallic is the worst. In the past I've tried spot repair and never had any luck matching the paint. I'm trying to imagine doing this assembled, all these separate body parts that bolt together, all the mating surfaces, I suppose you could just paint them black. I will stew on the idea. I was planning on painting the back side the panels and fender black to save on color anyway.
    Mike P and 40FordDeluxe like this.

  3. #318
    34_40's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    Quote Originally Posted by v8nutz View Post
    I know, it's been 2 years and it looks like I'm in the same place!.
    As the other Mike said... It took me 12 years and it still isn't really done. But it did get registered / insured and I have driven it. But that's how they always are right?? LOL Don't sweat it, it is supposed to be FUN!

  4. #319
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    Mike, I've been thinking about your idea of assembly and then paint. The one issue I see is that the clear would settle in all the seams and there would be a risk of damage when disassembled. There are lot's of seams on the front sheet metal (as you can see from this picture I snagged from the net). Could spray color and then take apart and spray clear, that doesn't sound real fun, there are time constraints once color goes on. I wonder how the pros do it.
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  5. #320
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    Been installing all the body panels to see how they fit after body work. I haven't seen it this together since I brought it home.
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  6. #321
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    It looks good in the pics. Do you think you'll paint it this year?

  7. #322
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    My goal has been to paint in the fall. We'll see if I make it. I still want to mount my running boards and also have to do the bodywork on the bed sides.
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  8. #323
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    Here's a tip on painting it together without the paint laying over or essentially bonding the panels together like you're worried about. I learned this from a top notch Mopar restoration shop. Let's start with your fenders/inner fenders. Get some longer fasteners. Let's say they are 5/16" like in the case of my 40 Ford. Get some 7/16 or 1/2" nuts. Mask off the inner fender area you don't want body color on. Have a helper help you hang a fender and use nuts to space the fender away from the body and then bolt it on in as many holes as it takes for the fender to be firm and not floppy during prep or sanding.

    The doors I remove the latch and tape off or remove the striker. Just be really careful when opening/shutting the door to not push it in to the jamb if that is possible. I've seen guys make a short stopper to go in the striker hole that would contact the striker plate or striker to hold the door firm but out a little to not contact the jamb etc. You'll need to or want to open and shut the door to get the lower hinge covered and access the jambs.

    I'm currently in the boat of I need to paint my front clip and fenders after I shot the body. Luckily for me I screwed up the rear quarters so I will be re shooting them so hopefully my metallic lay out is the same. I have very little space like you said so it takes planning and a lot of cleaning. Fall is a great time to paint with less humidity usually, and less bugs. I hung fly strips up all over and I actually started late in the evening because the kids were inside and not coming in and out all the time. I'm no pro painter but I like learning and I need to learn as I have a lot of projects and they all need painted. I can see so many flaws in mine that I want to re shoot the entire thing. Everyone tells me to just get it together and worry about that later. I've been passing fliers out at a lot of shows lately and I notice several of the top winners at these shows have several blemishes or things I feel awful so I figure my friends are probably right and I just need to get it together and off the wooden stands. PS, mine is another 10yr + build on here so don't feel bad. Haha
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    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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  9. #324
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    Thanks for the tips Ryan. I have been trying to get my head around doing something like that. There are so many mating surfaces on this thing that will need to be painted.
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  10. #325
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    Made my running boards and modified some old m mounts to work with the Ford frame. Went with a more stealthy look. I've been getting the truck ready for an attempt at licensing so I have all my lights and horn working, gauges working.
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  11. #326
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    The lights and gauges..
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  12. #327
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    just read this post Wow what a nice job.
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  13. #328
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    Love the gauges, are they OEM?

  14. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    Love the gauges, are they OEM?
    Thanks! I have details about the gauges on page 16
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  15. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by v8nutz View Post
    Thanks! I have details about the gauges on page 16
    3 - 10 - 19... no wonder I'd forgotten about them... rotflmao! Time does fly by right!?!?!
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