Excellent! Keep those pics coming, the early Hemi is my engine of choice, I love seeing what takes place after we drop our parts off at the machine shop! Thanks a million
Printable View
Excellent! Keep those pics coming, the early Hemi is my engine of choice, I love seeing what takes place after we drop our parts off at the machine shop! Thanks a million
Did you have to remove some material to fit the main studs, or you're just tru-ing everything up? I've heard some guys say you don't have to line hone/bore or do anything to install main studs and I've heard that it's a must. I wasn't sure if it was personal preference. I myself just figured doing both just ensured a longer lasting engine. Great work and thanks for taking time to post your progress.
In my opinion and experience, ALL motors should be align honed, especially if it has never been done. New iron (green iron) will twist and relax (stress relieving), and to re-establish the holes for size, roundness, main tunnel alignment. Back in the day, it was thought to be a race only operation, but it really is necessary to properly re-machine an engine to new condition. Heads also need to be milled for the same reason (twist), and we all know the factory machined all of their blocks with extreme precision. I square the blocks to ensure the decks are parallel to the crank, and 90 degrees from each other. Then you bore the cylinders and they are perpendicular to the decks. This helps equalize piston deck heights is so far as the rods center to center distance being as equal as possible.
As far as the hemi, even if I was paying someone else to do it, I would still have it done because I understand the importance of why it is done.
Align hone completed. Seems the block was outside for a bit long, lol... It should be just fine though, the caps turned out just fine.
Working on the heads, and the block. Got the intakes set; hopefully. Two different castings so having some issues to overcome. The block was trimmed on the front and back to clean up the surfaces, ensure they were parallel, and perpendicular to the crank. Then I started to square the decks, and found a small split that I pinned. Long day, so I went home... **)
Part Two...
Nice job with the pin.
and thanks for stopping to get pics for us and sharing them!!!
Block is square now, and cleaned up the top.
I guess I need to clean and fix up the garage if I am going to build a hotrod...
With that much stuff in the rafters---what do you do about snow loads on the roof??????
I like the BHJ true deck bar/fixtures----------much simpler than having to do so much mock up for diminsions-----
Probably only you, Pat and me have any of that
Got the block bored to 0.060" OS today. Now I just need to figure out what pistons I want to use.
Before:
Attachment 65810
Attachment 65808
After:
Attachment 65809
Finished Block:
Attachment 65811 Attachment 65812
Makes me want to get going on my 392 and Ford Flathead projects-at least the hemi block is setting near the surfacer, boring fixture and hone------I met the guy from up north that makes the 4 bolt caps at a race-just haven't followed thru with calling him back-----we used to run Summers Bros caps and wish I could get a set of them(just for old time sakes) Got std/std crank, would like center counterweights and hard chrome but that's pretty much------
@nd edid------------just noticed that the hemi and flathead are same--------392/239???????
Finished the valve job today, and setting up the springs.
Attachment 65813Attachment 65814
Seat is just where I want it...
Attachment 65815
Set Comp Cams springs to 115lbs @ 1.700" as recommended by Isky, who I plan on getting the cam from.
Attachment 65816Attachment 65817
AND, before someone asks and scolds me, yes, I did cut four spring seats. I know about supposedly being thin and all, but it was the easiest way to get my heights correct. I cannot see 0.025" causing a problem, and if it does, then oh well... :whacked::LOL:
I like the exhaust seats-wish mine were alredy done---------nice work