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Dragster body
This is a project I did last summer. A friend of mine was recreating a 60's
era Chassis Research dragster which were offered in kit form back in the day.
He had done a great job on the chassis, and drive train, and needed a simple
body of the style in vogue at the time. I had always wanted to try forming a
dragster body so I agreed to give it a shot. There won't be too much metal
shaping as these are simple bodies. I'm just an amateur at this so it will be a
learning experience.
I'm using .063 3003 H14 alum which is heavier than .050 commonly used, but
holds it's shape better. The owner isn't worried about weight, this is a fun
car, not a record holder. Not having a radius break I decided to use my slip
rolls which are 36" w/2" rolls. I fabbed an xtra large handle to help with the
shaping. I'm only rolling about an 8" stretch of metal to form the body shape.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pslyeyg3j1.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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Here I'm fine tuning the leading edge which bows out when rolled. This is caused
by the rolls bowing in the center from the high pressure. I had to wrap a 2 x 4
with a towel, and beat on it while still in the slip roll to get it close. I got pretty
good at this before the job was over! LOL
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pssjh98aw1.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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The owner wanted the firewall seperate from the engine plate like many cars of that
era. I formed a 1/4" firewall that will be sealed to the engine plate later.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psco7ewrjd.jpg[/IMG]
Drilled, and tapped the frame for recessed fasteners. The first Dzus clip is installed
at the top center of the chassis hoop.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psdp3srh3q.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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I welded a piece of angle to the rear hoop to mount a Dzus clip at the desired
body panel height.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psgrfliibj.jpg[/IMG]
These 2 x 4's are the hi tech spacers used to set that panel height. There is a sample
try piece laying on the cowl to help visualize the wind screen shape.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psq68fljwl.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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I have shaped a wood buck to use as a hammer form which is under the panel.
The top piece of wood is prevent distortion.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psagombppf.jpg[/IMG]
Another view.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pspu3loz0q.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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I was going to use a engine turned piece of alum, but changed my mind. Will
address this later.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psx14ejq8d.jpg[/IMG]
Notice the Dzus about 5" in front of the wind screen.
Rich
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This tool is available from Summit to counter sink the Dzus fastener.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pssaeqszf4.jpg[/IMG]
I ordered the weld plates from Summit SUM-G1624, the flush head fasteners
SUM-G1640
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5albewrt.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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The spring determines the tension on the body panels. I adjust the tension by
bending the spring to either tighten or loosen the grip of the fastener. The tension
varies since some panels over lap which doubles the thickness resulting in a
different tension than a single panel. Bend both sides of the spring evenly above
the rivet.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psmk6hmxss.jpg[/IMG]
I adjust the spring before welding the plates on, and use a small tab to simulate the
over lapping panel. It's easy to bend the plate so I do it in the vise, and make small
adjustments on the car.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pshf29ebhz.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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This shows how bending the plate keeps the finished panel clear of the weld
and hanger.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psuerts5oq.jpg[/IMG]
Mocking up to determine side panel which will have 3 sides attached.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pspbvuofk8.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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I ordered 1/8" polycarbonate from Sheffield Plastics. This stuff is amazing, I
could not shatter it with a hammer, and was able to run it through my bead
roller.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psjjucogbe.jpg[/IMG]
Here shows the step I rolled to butt against the cowl panel.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pscagxideb.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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I did use a heat gun to shape the panel, but you could proably get away with out it.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psp7swswmx.jpg[/IMG]
I made some wood bucks to clamp to the main chassis rails. The rear end has been
pulled back out of the way in this pic.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pspjfmguxt.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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Can't have too many clamps!
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5p2lhmgh.jpg[/IMG]
Yes! I love machinest blueing, helps these old eyes see the line.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psiwijccqa.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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This panel is running about an 1 1/2" past the firewall as there will be a panel
below the headers.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psodedflfo.jpg[/IMG]
Finally located the hole for the steering, I had fabricated the steering arm previously.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psmwvch9pv.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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Rear end back in place.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psnsyckvqg.jpg[/IMG]
The bottom hangers for the Dzus fasteners are visible here.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psveovlpq3.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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Side panels are done.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psivh8apxd.jpg[/IMG]
There are 3 fasteners holding on this panel. complete the center fastener first. Drill, and
counter sink the outer fasteners on the car. The slightest off set of the counter sinks
will cause puckering between fasteners.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pstkwtns1h.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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Notice yu have a few vise grip clamps!!!!!!!!!!
Dzuz spring adjustment tip is nice--------never did that, just always had buttons and springs for the various combos of material thickness---biggest diff was when using fiberglass as much thicker especially when doubled-
Nice work!!!!!!!
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Thank's! Never have enough clamps!! LOL It was a learning experience with the Dzus fasteners, I had never used them before. Now I'm
trying to figure out where I can use them on my Coupe!
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There s also a handy piece that is like a dzuz button but is a blank with a center punch in it for marking panels for the holes--drill to size, dimple it and perfect!!!!!!!!I also like the captured ones, especially like for pro stock hoods-too many to have to deal with loose buttons---like going from buttons to a zipper!!!!!!Too bad that's not a hemi
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First let me say thanks for making all the time to post all the pics! I know firsthand what it takes and wanted to let you know it is appreciated.
Next - Thanks for sharing the project.. it'll be a wonderful piece once completed. It's great to see what's involved in a build like this.
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Rich, from my Navy Aircraft Mech days, Dzus buttons come in different lengths. Not sure if they are in 1/16" increments or finer, but your "teak the spring" method works for small adjustments for sure. They have a super thin conical washer that fits over the button shank, after it's in the panel to be retained, and then is deformed to keep the buttons in place when the panel is loose. Lot's handier than having the buttons loose and scattered around, especially if you have different length buttons for the different panel thicknesses.
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Jerry:
I have seen that tool to center punch the panel. My problem was with two over lapping panels, I could drill them together so the holes were lined up perfect, but if
I did not counter sink them over lapped together they may be slightly off. The counter sink tool had just enough slop to cause a slight misalignment. Not much, but
I'm probably to anal to let it go! LOL
Thanks Mike!
Roger:I have seen protective washers, but not what you mention. There are so many Dzus fasteners offered that I just went with the most popular size, and made the work.
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Where the two panels join, and roll under the car is a real pain to get a good
joint. Having to bead roll one changes the panel just enough to create a
lot of fussing around to make them fit together properly.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psxgp3eaiv.jpg[/IMG]
Hangers for the rear side panel.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psbmrmdn8j.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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I did later fab small pieces to close off the axle housing panel.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psu1yernep.jpg[/IMG]
This is how I transitioned the 3 body panels together.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pswjq8jcb8.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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Both sides ruffed in, and the over lapping joints fine tuned.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psdeyrhdwi.jpg[/IMG]
The edge of the front panel is stepped to make them flush. Having never done this before, it was figuring out the panel transitions that caused some head scratching!
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps75zospqw.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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so this is a current project? when do you have to be finished? I think I want to let my wife and mother in law go on a road trip to Amish land and I can come see?
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I shaped a piece of 1/4" plate to use as buck to form the corner.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8kuldfx3.jpg[/IMG]
A piece of 4" pipe for another buck.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psmsrgtkxo.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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Both sides complete.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pswcmcvctz.jpg[/IMG]
The back will be cut straight to match the cars of that era, many had no rear panel
at all.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psiemv4dby.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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why did he not want the cowl to fit motor plate??
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The owner wanted to recreate the way they were built back than, and many did not even have a motor plate. He may
switch to another engine make also.
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Rich, great work. You make it look easy. Thanks for taking the time to show the steps and pieces you make to get your backing to do bends etc.
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Thank's Ryan!
Here's the rear panel, I made a buck to beat the sides
around. I use particle board on most bucks with alum. MDF holds up better
with carbon steel.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9d6hhjha.jpg[/IMG]
This pic shows the panel almost complete. I missed getting pics of the step I beaded
into the outer edge so it would slip into the back panels. I had to machine down a set of dies because the flange was so narrow.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pscmrl0hpm.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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It's hard to see in this pic, but the rear panel is flush with the side panels.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psecvzix60.jpg[/IMG]
I welded a piece of tube to the frame for a future push bar. The removable stub
bottoms against the frame inside the tube. Yes it is very fussy getting that hole
in the rear panel dead on! LOL
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pscwhv1tft.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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Had a last minute change, the owner wanted the option of running weed burner headers. The Panel that seals the engine plate to the firewall is just barely visible in this pic.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pslxvhqtdr.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8r4cop90.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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Some finished shots.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pszt3ukqdd.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psfaqj2sem.jpg[/IMG]
The owner is looking to get the rear panel louvered, which would look great. There is still more work to be done on the car, but the owner needs to finish a lot of small stuff inside the cockpit. Also he just moved, and is relocating his shop. What a great
project, a lot of work, but very rewarding.
Rich
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Congrats on all the hard work, it looks just great!
And again, thanks for spoiling us with all the detailed pictures and explanations!