The grill looks fantastic, big improvement over the first one. Your attention to detail is impressive.
Printable View
The grill looks fantastic, big improvement over the first one. Your attention to detail is impressive.
Good call on the 100-6 grille, that CR attempt was hideous.
Thanks guys.
Yeah, Bob, I agree. The old grille was complete mess.
I decided that I since I showed the final front look, it was as good a time as any to show the final rear look, too.
The lower lights are 50 Pontiac LED units from Rodworx (that is the correct spelling). I have their taillights in my 46 coupe and they are the brightest I have found. The original taillights in the Sebring were some kind of tractor or truck parts. I’m not sure why Classic Roadsters decided to put the big lights in the car. The original Healey had Lucas lights top and bottom that are the size of the upper lights. It may have been to meet some kind of federal regulations or maybe they were just cheap and available. At any rate, CR modified the body for the big lights and that’s the hand I was dealt.
The old lights
https://i.imgur.com/hO5D6OG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/shdF19m.jpg
I found out about the Pontiac lights fitting on another site dedicated to these cars. I made some aluminum adapters for the holes. I will most likely get them powder coated because they will be hard to keep from corroding without removing them.
https://i.imgur.com/2HfwKXC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8K3ZXYr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MJepqZO.jpg
The upper lights are Lucas reproductions with original Lucas beehive lens. The Lucas lights came with flat lenses, but I thought the beehives might look a little better. I have some LED conversion bulbs from Rodworx for them. I didn’t really like the idea of having any Lucas parts on the car considering how poorly anything made by them holds up. However, they are the only lights that really look correct and they are just a simple light socket. The way the lens is retained is very strange, though. The lens has a lip around the base and the socket has a rubber gasket with a groove that the lip on the chrome trim ring fits into. No screws are used, except to mount the socket to the car. You have to very carefully work the lens base into the gasket. Kind of weird, but I guess it woks. I also mounted them with custom aluminum adapters.
https://i.imgur.com/Na2NUSD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/A8K0ASK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4frMKur.jpg
The bumperettes are the same 59 Sprite parts that are on the front. I should add that I shortened the body mounts front and rear that the bumpers attach to so that they would tuck in as tight as practical.
The exhaust tips are no name parts that I picked up at a swap meet several years ago. I kind of went for the XKE look with the narrow spaced tips.
The license is mounted on a spring loaded fold-down mount to give access to the trailer hitch. I don’t actually plan on towing a trailer much, but I do have future plans to build a removable trunk mounted luggage rack. They were a common accessory for British sports cars. I plan to have a couple of tubes run down to a removable insert in the hitch for support. Gotta get this thing on the road before I worry about that type of thing, though.
https://i.imgur.com/ycIM9hY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sZzHamz.jpg
When it all comes together, this what you get.
https://i.imgur.com/zgUojN1.jpg
I like the lights you've chosen. A much better "fit" with the whole scheme of the car.
Now.... about that rear license plate...… LOL..
Hey, not much to say. Dale was my guy. Liked Tony Stewart, too. Really loved to watch a good NASCAR race back when Earnhardt was alive. I feel fortunate that I got to see Dale race at Talladega. Between his death and NASCAR'S car of tommorrow and allowing Toyota to invent a push rod V8 just for their money, I have lost interest. Shame too, I was a fan since my grandfather was building stock cars. The sport is just too gentrified now.. I might as well watch Fomula 1.
I think many guys "our age" feel the same. And it seems the more "they interfere" in an effort of equality. It just stifles the overall effect. And it is still true, no matter what venue you watch, speed costs money, how fast can you afford to go? The small guy is still always the small ( slow) guy. I will tune in to NASCAR just to catch the last 30 or so laps. Same with NHRA, I may watch - but I have no real involvement anymore. I much prefer to watch the sportsmen races, a lot more relate-able. Another thing that is still true, I just cannot enjoy the big 3 sports. Football / Baseball / Basketball. there's just to many self centered cry babies in there.
bee hives are cool!
IMHO. nascar lost most of it's credibility when they effectively banned the Hemi and for sure when they tried to blame Bill Simpson for earnhardts's death. If you remember nascar backed off rather abruptly when Simpson threatened to sue. Sure woke up the bean counters.
NHRA started going down when they wouldn't let The Winged Express run in Top Fuel at the 65 Winternationals. He qualified for the field, but the limp d++cks in Top Fuel refused to race him. Then they let Ohio george run the Malco mustang in AA/GS instead of AA/MP where it belonged.
BTW, I flagged ole george a few times in 59 and he was an a++hat of the first degree.
Thanks for the comments and kind words. Even the off topic ones, keeps things lively!
The doors were the last bit of body work and modification that I tackled and this was a task I had been dreading. The car builder and Classic Roadsters managed to throw me an unexpected curve here, too.
When I got the car, I saw that the door gaskets had been glued on with gobs of black silicone. I knew all that mess was going to have to come off. This turned out to be a job with a capital “J”.
No wire brush would touch it until it was mostly scraped off by hand and there were large gaps between the door skin and inner door section! All these gaps had been literally pumped full of silicone.
The only tool I could find that would reliably remove it, and I tried everything I could find or buy, was a small flat blade screwdriver. With this I could slowly work my way around the door and once 95% was removed, I could switch to a fine wire brush in my die grinder. By varying the speed of the grinder, I could control the stiffness of the brush using centrifugal force. Slow speed and the brush would work it’s way into the small nooks and crannies. High speed and it would stiffen up for really stuck on chunks, but it wouldn’t even begin to remove it unless I had most of the big stuff removed.
The silicone had been put over the raw fiberglass and it was stuck in the fibers. The brush would get rough enough to grind off a little of the glass to strip the black mess off. At times I had to use a hooked pick to reach under the overlapping parts and drag out hidden bits. I even found places where they had smeared silicone over what looks like sanding dust! Here are a few shots of the job, which took hours of painstaking work.
Lot’s of silicone!
https://i.imgur.com/C7r8zc9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rXNJawL.jpg
The tool and technique. The pink stuff is actually gel coat dust that just got siliconed over. Such a quality builder!
https://i.imgur.com/rd8W7ss.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NgpbyVn.jpg
Eventually, I got it all off, but made a bad discovery. When CR glued the inner and outer passenger door together, they laid down a single thickness of mat and resin on the door skin. They roughed up the mating surface on the door inner with a grinder and stuck the two pieces together. Trouble was, the parts didn’t match up well in the contours. They were only touching in about 3 small places. The rest of the door skin was literally held on by the silicone the car builder used! I stuck a screwdriver between the parts and just popped them apart. What they did would have worked ok if they had just prefit thicker sections of mat in the areas that didn’t mate up. The driver door parts mated much better and I couldn’t separate them at all without tearing the fiberglass, as it should be.
Look at the size of these gaps. This is why the bonding scheme they used didn’t work.
https://i.imgur.com/zSmMlk3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mEdvaUc.jpg
This is the single layer of mat and resin they attempted to use. The whitish spot is one of the only spots that was actually stuck together.
https://i.imgur.com/oTw1BKG.jpg
I cleaned the two parts well and rebonded them with Lord Fusor T21 epoxy for SMC and fiberglass. Luckily, screws had been driven between the upper section of both parts and I was able to use those holes to locate the halves back in the same place (hopefully). Otherwise, I am going to have to spend a lot of time realigning the doors during body reassembly. I drilled alignment holes in everything before I disassembled the car so everything would go back in place easily.
Wow, just hasn't been an easy road, has it?
You are so right, 34. I think its going to be a good car when I'm done, but it has fought me the whole way. I guess nothing worth having comes easy. Boy, that statement is sure trying to make lemonade out of lemons!!!
Well.. if it was easy, we'd all be doin' it , right? LOL.
Yeah, 34, ain't it the truth!!
Next, I faired out the seams that had been covered in silicone. I filled them with Upol short strand fiberglass filler. This is the first time I have used this brand and I can say that it is very smooth and creamy. The glass strands are milled very short and don’t interfere with spreading like some of the stuff I’ve used in the past. It was creamy enough that I was able to force it between the inner and outer door halves where there were small gaps. This should act as a glue to further bond the parts together and it will stabilize the two parts so that stress and vibration don’t shake the two sections apart.
Getting all the seams smoothed out took a couple of days for both doors, but they look much better now with all that nasty silicone gone and once they are painted, they should look presentable! I did sand through the gelcoat in several places, but there really wasn’t much way to avoid that. The flanges on the inner doors were very thin lay ups, unlike just about every other part on this body. Most of the body is very heavy fiberglass. The SP epoxy primer I’m using can be used over raw glass and they claim it’s more durable than gel coat. Guess I’ll be putting that to the test since it would be difficult to gel coat all of it.
https://i.imgur.com/muVDFQv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/410Lg7t.jpg
There were also a few gel coat repairs on the lower corners.
https://i.imgur.com/ueKgJWG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kSiLlYd.jpg
This was a gouged out area where a screw in the door jam area had been wearing on the door because the gaps were too tight. There was a ¼” deep groove here. I built it up with short strand fiberglass filler.
https://i.imgur.com/nGCK6Id.jpg?2
One of the corners in the lock area was completely missing. The layup was very, very thin in this area. I think it was pretty much just gel coat and it cracked out. I built up and reshaped the corner with fiberglass filler. Once the epoxy primer goes on, I don’t think you will ever know unless you look inside the door.
https://i.imgur.com/d7tUY4o.jpg
I did get to use a new tool I bought a few months ago, but haven’t used until now. That is a Harbor Freight “Baxter” brand air powered detail belt sander. Man, this thing was a real time saver for working the seams. It was controllable enough that I could get the contours almost finished before switching to hand sanding for the final finish. I would say it knocked at least a day off of this job. The best part is that it worked exactly as it was supposed to. The air motor is more than powerful enough and the belt tracked well. It never threw a belt the whole time I used it. This is one of the new Harbor Freight “improved” brands. I can say that the one I got is far, far superior to the old Chicago Pneumatic stuff, but costs twice as much, too.
https://i.imgur.com/sfF9iPX.jpg
That's good news on the tooling. Harbor Fright seems to be stepping up their quality in a few areas. (and no.. I spelled it the way I intended!)
I think most of us don't mind spending some extra dollars to get a product that actually works as intended.
So far the only thing I get there is blasting media.
I think they saw Craftsman/Sears going downhill and saw a great opportunity to sell decent quality tools in the old Craftsman price range.
I have tried a Chief air saw and a Hercules drill, too (both from HF). They seem to compare very well to some of the bigger names. They are at least as good or better than the old Craftsman stuff. The Hercules drill was a little pricey for HF, but is in their professional line.
They also have several new names in hand tools. Some appear to be direct ripoffs of brands like MAC and ViceGrip. May be off the same assembly line since many, many name brand tools are now made in China.
I do hate buying Chinese stuff because I don't like their politics, but if the American brands are going to move their production to China and layoff American workers, why should I pay them big money? All it does is go in the company pockets and doesn't really help create American jobs. Whether I buy Irwin brand Vice Grips or the HF version, China is still going to get the money. They look and work exactly the same and I can buy twice as many for the same money. If the American companies start losing money because they are selling Chinese made stuff and not providing jobs for Americans, maybe they will move production back here. You have to hit them on the bottom line before they will pay attention.
I really hope that doesn't pi## folks off and I hope it doesn't get flagged as political.
Nah. I'd doubt it as the majority here think the same. I wanted to say so much more but that would drag us in a direction that won't change anything so I'll keep my pie hole shut! :eek::LOL::LOL::p
But I will say thanks for the tool review again. I wouldn't have considered them otherwise.
I couldn't agree more and if the truth p####s them off they are very narrow minded. And besides "the truth will set you free"
I. too, do not want to turn this into a political discussion as Bill (Mr Mustang) has been very clear on the consequences of engaging in political discussion on this forum and I respect that.
On the other hand, my grandson has purchased a few of their Ikon brand and so far he is very happy with them.
yep , free speech does not exist on the net . all it takes is one whiny snowflake crying and stuff gets shut down . life is much easier when your not offended by opinions . i try to pass on anything chinese .
Repairing someone else's fiberglass work often presents so many opportunities for improvement! The tailights are perfect, the grille must have been a ton of work but the end result definitely justifies all the effort! I've been watching this build, first rate all the way, well done!
Thanks, Dave. I'm really glad my experienced peers are liking this.
The final job on the doors wasn’t a repair. It was a custom modification. I have never liked the Chevette door handles on these cars. They look too bulky and stick out, visually, to me. The original Healey handles were thinner. I decided early on in the build that I would rather shave the handles and go with an electric actuator. The main issue was access to the inside of the door to glass over the backside. After some thought, I came up with what I think is a far easier solution than trying to lay glass through a small hole in the inner door. This is the handle and lock recess.
https://i.imgur.com/gOoQjwM.jpg
I started the shaving job by making a couple of fiberglass patches. I spread aluminum foil over the section of the door just forward of the handle opening and taped it down smooth. The door skin has a fairly heavy curve in this area and I wanted my patches to start out more or less curved. Then I laid glass over the foil to form a large patch. The glass naturally took on the curve of the door.
https://i.imgur.com/MAloNvs.jpg
Next, I sawed out and ground a couple of filler plates to fit the handle openings. I also used a hole saw to cut a couple of plugs for the old key holes out of the scrap form the handle plates.
https://i.imgur.com/PQnJQYN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/E00Lmzs.jpg
I used a carbide burr on in a die grinder to remove the gel coat in the handle and key recesses to get back to the fiberglass. You don’t want to bond anything to gel coat. Sorry, this picture is reversed form the rest in this post because I forgot to take a picture of the side I was working on at the time.
https://i.imgur.com/wJv6tD2.jpg
Using the Fusor T21 epoxy I glued the patches in and let the epoxy set up overnight.
https://i.imgur.com/DKVffHG.jpg
Then, I ground everything down to the base fiberglass and cut out some heavy mat. This was glassed over the patches and tied into the door skin. I made sure to grind the new glass down below the surface of the existing gel coat.
https://i.imgur.com/zRdJQro.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fBsHzKO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pSYIhgg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IbzU6i0.jpg
A new layer of gel coat was next. It’s not too pretty, but that wasn’t my goal. I just wanted a consistent gel coat surface to lay filler on. The black color is sandable primer I use as a guide coat.
https://i.imgur.com/QkecMpI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JxmEYFY.jpg
Next came some fiberglass filler and polyester glazing putty.
https://i.imgur.com/6cMtU6n.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/C6GlhkE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QhEdscn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/s6Gg2lJ.jpg
I couldn’t resist hitting it with some primer just to see what it will look like. I’m satisfied with it. I hope it holds up and doesn’t cause printing issues with the paint.
https://i.imgur.com/tQOQDUi.jpg
Oh, just in case you’re curious about how I intend to open the doors. I plan to use the car with top down most of the time, or with the top up and no side curtains. I have installed inner door handles intended for street rods near the top front of the inner door. These can be reached easily from the inside or outside. They are mechanical handles since I don’t want to rely on electric latches for exit in case of an emergency. For times when the top is up (or the hard top is on) and the side curtains are installed, I plan to hide a small button on the bottom of the “bullet” style door mirrors to actuate the electric door release. This is my tribute to the TVR, another British sports car. Many TVR’s use a button under the mirror to open the door.
As to security, there is not much real security in a car with a cloth top held on with snaps, but I plan to have a limited range RFID interrupter on the main power relay in the car. The RFID key fob will be in my pocket and when I walk away, the power to the whole car, including the doors, will be dead. Of course, there will be another way to access, but you’ll have to excuse me if I don’t tell all my secrets.;):LOL:
Having vast experience with the same basic composition while working on Factory Five products when I owned my shop, I'd say yours is a valiant effort. You are going to want to sand the primer off though and allow the panel to bake in the direct sunlight for at least 2-3 days. This will allow you to see any "solvent pop" from the products uneven drying and outgassing. In addition, once that is done, before you do anything else, get yourself a powerful light and place it behind the patch job after the sun sets, as this will allow you to view any air bubbles or voids that will need to be addressed before the primer goes back on. Been following the thread since it's inception and I am truly impressed with your progress, now that you are here, prep will be key to a flawless finish (as flawless as you can get an old Sebring body that is). Dewaxer and degreaser must be used on the rest of the body, do that now, as anything else you do to it may create minor imperfections from the old gelcoat release agents (yes, even now), a simple wipe down is all that is required. Keep up the great work.
Sincerely,
Bill S.
Wow Mike, you've come a long way since the last time I've checked in. Seems like the site is working better now so hopefully I can stop by more often! It's fun seeing your car get back together, you're right, it seems like this thing's been a fighter for you !
I bought one the year before I got rid of the shop, did it work, yes. Did I bother to use it often, no, too much trouble to move it around the car vs letting it out gas and dry normally. Besides, nothing beats baking a fiberglass body in the sun for 10 hours. Heats up everything and then some.
Bill
Thanks Bill. Glad that you are following and I really appreciate the advice. I will definitely check for air pockets. I have been careful about opening them up when I found them, so I'm hoping I don't find any more. I'll sand the primer off and try to get the doors in the sun this weekend, too, now that we seem to actually be getting sunshine.
I'm hoping to get the car sealed with epoxy, primed soon with hi build and let it sit for a couple if months to shrink and out gas before I do the final block sanding. During that time I will wheel the parts to the doors so that they can get sun, too. I have about that much mechanical and electrical work to do before I can get the body back on. Any thoughts on this plan? Thanks again.
Once you bury things in primer, baking them in the sun may or may not allow voids and bubbles to surface. Do that before the sealer and hi build primer, then again, you'll find spot putty your friend for most of the smaller voids, all before priming and sealing. Take a 100W light bulb on an inspection light behind the entire body and look for items you missed. I had a sharp ice pick I used to use on the 1-3rd generation of FFR body (Contemporary, ERA, Unique, A&C, EM rare, but they happen), used to go around stabbing at the voids and air bubbles with a passion, my employees thought I was crazy, gave me a wide berth till they saw what I was digging out and exposing. Getting a body perfect, or close to perfect is all about taking the time to look at the bigger picture. So far, your logic is sound, I'm just guiding you down the side path you did not realize was there. Once you start the block sanding with guide coats will you see what is left to do, after your high build prime of course. Take your time, one panel at a time, and it will come out looking fantastic. Only other advice for now, once primed, keep out of the weather, as primer will absorb moisture if rained on, you'll then need to remove it and start from scratch, even on fiberglass.
Hope this to is helpful.
Bill S.
One more quick question about keeping it out of the weather. Will covering it with a tarp after it's primed cause any problems? My shop roof leaks occasionally in hard rain and would want to cover it when I'm not there, just in case. Of course I would uncover it and allow it to sit in the sun when I'm there. Tarps are cheap enough that I could get a couple to dedicate for that purpose and not allow them to be contaminated with oil or grease. Also, in the summer with the doors closed, it gets pretty hot in my metal building, so I'm thinking that should help bake it, but not as much as direct sunlight. Thanks again.
Personally I'm not a fan of tarping, particularly fresh, catalyzed paint of any kind, but especially a more porous product like primer or sealer. I envision (without hard proof) it interfering with off gassing that progresses over time, and if it gets some wet in the area from leaks in the roof there's the danger of entrapping moisture under the tarp that will get into the primer layer. Tenting, where you allow airflow would be better..........more effort, but that's not a problem for you.;)
I agree with Uncle Bob. My first thought when you mentioned tarping was condensation being trapped and collecting on the underside of the tarp. My barn floor will sometimes sweat, like with weather changes. Tenting would eliminate that problem.
I'd heard before that primer can absorb moisture, and have seen primed steel bodies surface rusting when a guy would prime and drive (especially the old light gray stuff) but I'd never heard before that the primer that gets wet needs to come off and be reapplied before painting. I don't doubt it at all, but that's harsh!
I wish I'd read all of this stuff before doing any work on my cars! I'm about ready to grab the belt sander....:eek:
Thanks for the comments. I'll have to rearrange the shop a little and tent the tarps over my 4-post lift. That should work ok for keeping the tarp off the primed surface.
I've heard epoxy primer is water resistant. Where I used that on my 48 Ford after removing rust has done very well. the parts that got regular primer have rust spots showing up 10 years later! Not sure about everyone elses opinions here but curious what you all think about epoxy primer
Ok. I’ve taken a break from body work while I wait on the trunk lid liner. I haven’t been able to get the parts in sun as Bill suggested, since it’s rained just about every day or been overcast. I will get that done when the weather breaks and the sun comes out long enough to do some good.
What I have been doing is concentrating on getting the last batch of small parts to the powder coater. I need these to actually finish assembling and plumbing the chassis, otherwise I’m never going to get this beast running! There’s not much to show of that work, but I do still have some older stuff to post. I think I left off with removing and filling the lock boss on the shortened column. Here is the rest of the story (with apologies to Paul Harvey:3dSMILE:).
Now that I had a functioning column, I needed something to bolt the steering wheel to. Telescoping columns have to have a steering wheel or adapter with a sleeve to cover up the gap when the column is extended.
Several months ago I found someone on another forum selling a wood rimmed 14" Mota Lita steering wheel. They made the steering wheels for XKE's and many other high end British sports cars. They were often added as upgrades to lower priced cars. I thought it looked good and snapped it up. Mine came with a Sunbeam Tiger adapter that just happened to fit the Equinox column splines. It would have taken a little lathe work to get it fit the taper, but it could have been made to work. However, that adapter wouldn't work with the GM column.
The C4 column did come with an adapter for another style of wheel (may have been for a Nardi ) and it looked like I could modify it to work on the Mota Lita wheel. It was way too long, but I had the solution for that. I'm sure that someone will tell me that I cut up a very rare and valuable part, but it's too late now.
https://i.imgur.com/lIys3Fd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5xTTXlK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Nb54350.jpg
The Mota Lita wheel has a 9 bolt pattern and the C4 adapter was just big enough to squeeze all of them in. I cut it down as short as I could.
https://i.imgur.com/XSsJ8tz.jpg
Getting the telescoping lock figured out took a little time. I had originally hoped to have it in on the driver side of the wheel, but that wasn’t practical. It made a fitting horn button in the center of the wheel nearly impossible unless I made the horn button the lock, similar to some old Corvettes. I considered that for a while, but decided that it would be a constant source of trouble and subject to being easily damaged.
What I did was machine a short spacer with a notch to clear a Cadillac telescoping column lock handle. It was lower profile than the original C4 lock. This allowed the lock handle to be positioned behind the wheel. When it’s locked, you can’t even see it since it’s hidden behind the bottom steering wheel spoke. BTW – Some of these pictures were taken before I cut the lock boss off.
https://i.imgur.com/Zsfbh0m.jpg
This spacer fits over a small boss on the base and has a boss for the wheel to go over. This way, the bolts aren’t the only thing taking the strain.
https://i.imgur.com/wi0f5Bd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gAPDfXw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AgueCxf.jpg
Some time ago, I picked up a horn button for a 9 bolt wheel off of EBAY, but didn’t think it would work after I got it in. With the lock handle behind the wheel, all I needed was another short spacer and the EBAY button worked out just fine. I did have to tweak on the lock handle a little to get everything to clear, but it all seems to function just as it should.
https://i.imgur.com/XZ0RXGt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XZ0RXGt.jpg
I was missing the horn lead that goes down to the slip ring in the column, so I just soldered a piece of wire to the back of the slip ring itself. That connects to the horn button. I checked it’s function with my multimeter and it worked with no problems. Sorry, not a good picture, but it’s the only one I have.
https://i.imgur.com/yE5JTqR.jpg
I polished the parts on an ancient bench grinder that I keep a polishing wheel and wire brush on all the time. It all went together with 10-24 button head stainless bolts. Actually, it only uses 8 bolts for the wheel now. One is a short dummy over the telescoping handle slot just to make things look right.
https://i.imgur.com/pTEddcu.jpg
That looks great. Nice work..
That's beautiful!
Thanks guys. Hard to believe that a simple steering column could be so involved.
Here’s something else I tinkered with. I noticed that when the column was stretched out, the turn signal lever was quite a stretch to reach. I had some serrated test pieces left over from the suspension adjusters and whipped this up out of them. It’s an adjuster for the turn signal lever.
https://i.imgur.com/yQDHEj0.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/yJ2S7yD.jpg?1
I’m not completely satisfied with it yet, but I can work on it some more later.
What you did with the steering wheel/column was extremely clever.