Steve, enjoy putting some miles on that coupe. Don't be shy with the pics of it out and about. :LOL:
Steve, enjoy putting some miles on that coupe. Don't be shy with the pics of it out and about. :LOL:
Managed to get back on the pickup last weekend, I had been fed up with kicking the wheels around every time I wanted to move it so first job was a steering column so a rummage through my scrap and I came up with a piece of 1.5" diameter stainless tube and a few offcuts of aluminium bar, I had some 3/4" round on the shelf so we were good to go
First job was to dummy up with an old steering wheel and measure up 28" needed and the bit I found was 28.5 Trued up the ends in the lathe and I had an outer
I had planned to use 3/4" needle roller bearings so I turned up a couple of bearing carriers in aluminium to be a press fit into the tube.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psf5fmkdbo.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pszwuccaup.jpg
Next I turned my attentions to the inner shaft, I like to use 3/4"DD uj's so the end of the inner was machined with 2 flats on the mill.
and a groove for the securing bolt.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psuz9ljjqj.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pstngr8r4c.jpg
I machined up a decorative finisher for under the wheel mounting hub (which I forgot to photograph but is basically a 1.5" x 5/8 steel hub welded to the end of the inner)
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psvuxjeabc.jpg
Heres the finished column, not too shabby for an outlay of £15 ($20) including bearings Next job a custom column drop.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psu6ckzb0m.jpg
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Very cool, Steve. Will be interested to see what you come up with for a column drop.
Didn't want to keep you waiting Roger :LOL:
These pics explain the steering hub end better.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps0mw9zzia.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pskttbclmp.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pskqwktmxg.jpg
Yesterday I started on the column drop, I wanted something to match the brake pedal etc which are I beam styled, started with a boss for the column and added curved sides, the edges are all radiused to soften the look, I cut a cardboard infill panel with holes but i'm still thinking about the design etc, It might change.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psvzzvsvni.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps6sxjefaw.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psxd8fr4gk.jpg
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Very nice! You have a great eye for layout and design, keeping things totally functional with a nice "look". I really like the style of the drop.
Love the look.:) Kinda looks like an oversized bent con rod with the big end cut off.:eek:;):D
Jack.
Was thinking you could fill the holes you cut out with some cool vintage gauges! Or maybe an old clock and panic button! :)
I got the column support insert made up so silicon bronze welded it into place, then the weld was dressed with a bull nosed tungsten burr to create an invisible joint (I wanted it to look like a cast piece)
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psjck1vatt.jpg
I had to paint some small parts for a customers car so gave the support a squirt of satin black epoxy, I love it !!! Its exactly what I wanted it to look like
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psjhiz1nnh.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psm3j8o20s.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psybfdfpjy.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psrlqyb96v.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pse0gbjiwa.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps0ouc2vvq.jpg
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Looks great (as usual) Steve.
I clamped the column in place just to check and make the bottom mount up.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psc1b94cf8.jpg
While I was looking at it I thought the column drop looked a bit bland so went home and spun up some thin finishers for the holes.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pspgv7szqa.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pstdiv3mxa.jpg
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Very nice work as usual sir.
Would a silver dollar fit in that bottom hole?
Yesterday was one of those non productive days where you work all day but seem to have little to show for it !!!
It was raining first thing so decided to clean up the front brake back plates, they are original 56 F100 so had a fair bit of pitting on them, i had them blasted and then sanded them fairly smooth, then epoxy primed, hi build primed and then shot them in Black, they came out pretty good.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psuawl8fbf.jpg
It has stopped raining so next up was to see how the master cylinder and brake pedal was gonna fit now I had the column in, straightaway I had a slight issue with the brake pedal fouling the column on half stroke, I had 2 solutions and the first was to put a crank in the pedal or move the pedal onto the outside of the pedal bracket, the first was a bit tricky as the pedal is made like an I beam so I decided to move the pedal to the outside of the bracket.
Once this was done I drilled the master cylinder mounting holes, the firewall is 1/2" thick at this point but I put in a strengthning plate at the rear inside the firewall.
Not much for 8 hrs work but its still progress.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps4761620a.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps824d08df.jpg
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Great work! I love all your hang made pedal components.
Been collecting the parts for the braking system hydrulics, I really like the old style look of brass fittings and copper pipe, obviously copper is a nono for brakes so I will substitute Kunifer (Cupro-Nickel) for that.
I thought it would be easy to find all the fittings in brass but it appears a lot of them are not about, well not in imperial anyway, Anyway I found brass imperial 3/8" unf tee's easily enough, not so easy to find unf tube nuts though, anyway long story short I bought a selection of hexagon brass bar and popped into my mate Brians who just happens to have a small CNC setup, anyway poped back next day and he had produced me 50 x 3/8"UNF tube nuts Not only that but he copied the bleed screws that were in the cylinders too
The other problem piece was I wanted to use thru the frame fittings so these too had to be made on the lathe, these were made from 3/4" hexagon brass bar, they were turned down to 9/16" and threaded 9/16" -18, nuts were made from the offcuts.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps1ef8af71.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psf76e248b.jpg
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What was your technique for cutting the threads?
Did you do cut them on the lathe, or run a die?
Very nice and great to have buddies with that equipment!
Theads were cut with a tap & die
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Managed to get back on this today so started sorting out the doors, the doors that came with the cab were pretty aweful and fitted where they touched !!!
Solution was to make up part of the door inner front from the Coupe mould and graft it into the pickup doors.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psqjoecfuh.jpg
Next a trial fit to mark the cutouts for the hinges.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psqerntwlx.jpg
The stainless steel hinges were marked and cut to length (they come longer than you need) then the mounting holes were marked and drilled.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psgbapuex2.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps63298007.jpg
I keep hearing about people that struggle to drill stainless so heres a couple of video's
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKUssO5_RqI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AS94-AdCKY
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You make it look easy, do you have a special grind on that drill bit? I am surprised you didn't make those hinges your self.:rolleyes:;):LOL:
Jack.
Last couple of evenings i've been working on the doors, I've learnt a lot too !!!, you wouldn't believe how many small differences there are between 40 & 41 doors !!!
Anyway I got the new section bolted in and hinging.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psdynbuqnz.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psw5own971.jpg
Next job was to cut its opposite number out of the door inner
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psmxnlbmyu.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psfjlzonxw.jpg
To hold the inner in place I cut some ply blocks the required thickness and temporaliy attached them to the door frame then used a couple of screws to position the door inner, I used tape to hold it in place around the screen pillars and used mat & resin to glue the parts together,
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psr7ofoi0j.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psa9kpxuh3.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pslpkes4by.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psfxtbmqu2.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psiqj57cy1.jpg
Once the matt had cured I transferred to the bench, here you can see where some of the contours don't line up.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psg2l6obdk.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps3qvjuis2.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps5bkugeil.jpg
Next on the agenda is this top corner
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps9fss3rrj.jpg
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A bit more done last few evenings, these doors look like they have never been fitted, i'm not surprised really as they are all over the gaff !!!
Sorted the top front corner, a piece of plastic sheet was curved and held in place with some screws, the glass don't stick to the plastic and it leaves a nice smooth surface. I also replaced the return.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pswk24ufwz.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps9kd3klb8.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psnixdse29.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psjdsti3ix.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psds9ltskj.jpg
Next I had to do something with the top return as it was as straight as a dogs hind leg !!! dotted line shows what had to be removed.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psdpi4fapg.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psps6vldmh.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psglx73wmr.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psgvbaedgl.jpg
The bottom front corner was pretty mishapen so chopped it off and reglassed it.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psgnvubctf.jpg
Tomorrow I have to sort the bottom of the door which is like the sea !!!
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It's good to see 'glass work done right, Steve, using mat and good overlaps for good, strong panels. Thanks for posting such good methods for us to emulate.
Great work as usual. Those SS hinges are sweet!
pretty impressive build thread and your work looks first rate!
thanks
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The door inners are now pretty much there now which left one last job before I start putting metal and windows in, the job was to put in a return to mount the whisker strips onto, this is one job I always do on a glass car as looking in the window opening there is nothing worse than seeing the door inards, it really spoils any nicely built car.
So around the opening was keyed up and I mixed up some chopped mat and resin, I call it strawberry but its also known as bridger, its basically small chopped fibreglass strands mixed in resin to form a paste, its very handy for certain jobs.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps9ofy2uqa.jpg
Next I started installing the window channel, to hold the channel I split a piece of 20mm x 1.6mm box in half which gave me 2 10mm deep channels, the felt window runner is a nice snug fit in this.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psbuxfx2dj.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psteormk6g.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psdo8g8u7e.jpg
Next I cut some 5mm ply to shape as a window template and formed the felt channel around it.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psse6yebmi.jpg
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Thanks for posting this detail, Steve! Looking forward to the next installment.
Like Roger said, great details on this. I really like the idea of splitting that tube to hold the felt.
A bit more progress, started framing up.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psq9bs5gab.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psnd8vt9ev.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps8rv78ifh.jpg
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Love it,Steve.. Looking good.. Gotta admit,,I never thought about using a 20mm box for that job..I have used a 20,or 25x 12mm ( I think),with one side cut off for a snug fitting window channel though.. The glass dropped into well..
Bit more done to bore you all
I usually like manual window winders in an old car but as I didn't have any VW winding mechanisms in stock I decided to use some electric units I stock, I guess as I sell and endorse these kits I really should use them as well !!!
First job was to modify the top mount as it wasn't how I wanted it, Chopped it off and welded my version on.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psbkubvzkl.jpg
I modified the bottom mount to my liking also, all the holes are drilled 1/4" while I set it all up then I drill out to 3/8" to allow a bit of adjustment in all directions.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pszv4e8ul1.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psbzdlfz5o.jpg
I also fixed a steady for the motor
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psr9x68dc6.jpg
Heres the mechanism in place, Its really a great little kit that works great, comes with switches & wiring harness but I won't be using them as I don't want the look of modern switches.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psblzzqbzh.jpg
This is a shot of the clamping system, A great idea that works
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps6clnvmef.jpg
The top limit relies on the bracket I cut off so I spun up a buffer in the lathe for the end of the travel. also clipped up the exhaust tube.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psybbhayaz.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps931yjuxe.jpg
Heres what i'm using in place of the modern rocker switches, they use micro switches for up & down action, i'm using 34 ford winder handles, modern windows with an old look.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pshjclcgsv.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psdnkhcuxv.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psgiqea5ns.jpg
Here the switches are mounted in simple brackets.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psn3wc9xtg.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pst05eudbl.jpg
Next job was to bond in the window channel, using Polyeurathe Adhesieve Sealant, sticks anything like shit to a blanket !!!
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psr2expfp0.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pseoizaxjj.jpg
I found these door actuators on my shelf and they are just the right length and will take the 34 ford handles perfectly. Locks are some slim bearjaw locks I had kicking around.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psrncabs4s.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psokaecujz.jpg
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Very very nice work there Steve and you have made me rethink the way I am building the doors for the Bucket re frame wise, and I don't have windows to worry about. Thanks so much for taking the time to not only photograph what you are doing but your easy to understand explainations is so helpful, it is brilliant.
Had to knock off a bit earlier today as we have friends coming but I did get the windows all going up & down nice & smoothly
Also I knew space was tight for the bearjaw locks so had to form a slight bulge in the door jam to accommodate them, it will also make life easy for prospective customers as its a standard lock I keep in stock.
Hers a few pics and a short video
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psrkzcxcdf.jpg
Video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iV4EUvylKj4
Heres the whisker trim and where it will fit
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps5foojv5t.jpg
Here the lock position and the bulge I formed, all done with a bit of shaped wood and masking tape
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps8bb63fvn.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pspyejdwzy.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psnnsptsh5.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psmmdtbpjo.jpg
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