Thread: '37 Oze build

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I know I said above that I would not bother you further, but I'm going to give this one more shot. I believe that at the end of the day you will find that the IFS that you have is intended to be installed on your frame with the desired caster angle pre-set, and that your caster is not intended to be adjusted further. The description that you gave about turning one rod end in and the other out will put your rod ends out of alignment with one another in an increasing bind the more you offset the rod ends.

Let's put some numbers to it, assume that the upper rod ends are 1) 1/16" movement per turn in or out (1/16" pitch); 2) adjusted with eight threads showing on both rod ends, equally spaced out from the vehicle center line; and 3) the 5/8" through bolt fits smoothly through both rod ends at this balanced position with no binding at all, other than normal friction with the rubber inserts. Now we turn the forward rod end out four turns, moving it away from the vehicle center line 1/4", and at the same time we turn the rear rod end in four turns, moving it closer to vehicle center line by 1/4". The result is that the center point of the through bolt will be rotated in the horizontal plane, and the ball joint will shift back in an arc but the rod ends are now offset from one another 1/2", so the through bolt is going to have to be forced through the bushings if it will go at all. Now let's remove that through bolt and adjust the front out 8 turns, and the rear in 8 turns. You've again rotated the shaft, but now the rod ends are offset by a full inch!!

The only way to affect caster without binding is to trim the upper pipe portion to allow the A-Arm to shift fore or aft on the 5/8" through bolt.

You need to be talking to RideTech if they made your IFS, not Heidt's. Seems to me that someone's feeding you some bad basic information.