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Dave, before you buy the new high efficient fan, read this http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-lo...ent-value.html
About half way down the page I bought into the hype, bottom line it takes horse power to make cfm.
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Dave, I just bought and installed a 7/8" Wilwood 260-9439-BK master cylinder to replace a Corvette style unit in my '34 that had a 1-1/8" bore. It bolted right in. I didn't have to change a single thing except to toss my actuator rod and connect directly to the Wilwood unit. I also dumped the Ford Explorer disc brakes on the back for a set of Wilwood 140-11389's.
I'm having a bit of a problem installing the rear disc brakes because I'm seeing some runout, and can't figure out why it's happening.
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Looks great! Nicely done!
I'm sure the epoxy you used is good, but I've found that "bondo" (UPOL Gold) works great, holds tight and sets up fast. Using body filler was recommended by N&N, and is how they bond pieces of steel & wood into the body shell when needed.
Looks great, the small gap between the aluminum and the false floor surely would be taken up by the carpet or upholstery you will be putting on the plywood I would think and shouldn't be a issue should it Dave? As for epoxy vs bondo, I was going to epoxy my Hagan gas door to my body (metal to fiberglass) and the company I ordered the fuel door from even sold a epoxy for bonding the unit to 'glass but after calling Pete Hagan he said use plain ol' Bondo as well as the bondo will not buckle the glass, the small tabs appear to allow plenty of expansion though and shouldn't create a problem I wouldn't think but a tip like that Roger can save a bunch of bucks as epoxy is 8 bucks for 4 ounces compared to Bondo at 45 bucks a gallon!
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I thought it was a flag pole..
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