Headache Heirloom - 28 Hupmobile Century 6, Model A

Well I started this build in 06 and have found everything to work on but this project. Ive grown tired of staring at it sitting in my garage and Ive decided to get back to work. Hopefully this time the motivation will see things thru.

A little history of the car.
Originally my great-grandparents. My father took possesion of the car in the early eighties with the intent of restoring it one day. I think the reality of it never being done sat in, so he passed it on to me. Initially I had no idea of what it would take to build this car and jumped right in. After tearing the car down and studying the needs of the car to build it into something I could enjoy, I found the project to be overwhelming and have had a hard time commiting to it. So to wrap up 5yrs of procrastinating:

I build sill plates out of steel to take the place of the wood ones. I tore the body down and watersand blasted the frame and some body panels. Ive framed the C pillars out of steel. The door wood has been removed and I plan to replace with steel.

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/5923/hup1ie1.jpg

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/1064/hup6mv6.jpg

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http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/1962/hup3jy9.jpg

http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/9863/hup4dl0.jpg

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/7428/hup5kh6.jpg

http://img309.imageshack.us/img309/3467/hup7on6.jpg

http://img226.imageshack.us/img226/7628/hup8ry8.jpg

http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/2555/hup9wx6.jpg

Wetsandblasting the frame and body.
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/6570/hupp0135yn.jpg

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/1724/hupp0167hg.jpg

Here I have started applying POR-15 to the interior
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/6155/hupp0274nc.jpg

Applying a little rattle can primer till I can get the body to a paint booth.
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/938/hupp0302jn.jpg

A sill plate contructed of steel to replace the orginal wooden ones. The interior of the car was originally framed in wood which included the sill plates (mounted between the body and frame), along with the floor boards. My plan is to replace the wood with steel as so to be able to weld in a metal floor along with being able to tie the A, B, and C pillars together for better strength.
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/1869/hupp0362fi.jpg

The sill plates installed. They are just above the frame rails and under the rough framing.
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/7785/hupp0446mu.jpg

A close up of the passenger side front quarter with the sill plate installed.
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/3000/hupp0458wx.jpg

I put the hood and frame rail covers on to make sure that the body is still aligned.
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/7747/hupp0434fs.jpg

I removed the wood from the doors and plan to replace it with wood.

Wood framing from the doors:
http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/9...p20640x480.jpg
Door skins sat in:
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/2005/hup21640x480.jpg
Inside view of stripped doors:
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/8...p22640x480.jpg

I had to back up in an effort to go forward. Originally I was going to leave the top alone, but I decided to ignore my moral compass about cutting up this heirloom, and opted to make it more of what I wanted.
http://img573.imageshack.us/img573/1...032640x480.jpg
After photochopping 4", I decided to go with a 2" chop, and left the rear window original.
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/8...033640x480.jpg
Subtle change, I think it should look nice. I still have to do the A pillars as well as cut the doors, then its break out the welder.
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/1...037640x480.jpg

I have finished most of the welding from the chop. I also bought a stetcher/shrinker to bend up the angle to reform the inner doors with.
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/986...081640x480.jpg
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I stopped by 'U yank It' and bought an Explorer 8.8 disc rear. The width is a really great fit for the car. I hung the springs back under the car, but it has everything sitting way too high. Even with blocks and the springs under the axle I wouldnt be happy with it. It looks best in the last pic with the frame sitting on the axle. Guess I'll be notching the frame.
http://i54.tinypic.com/2wn1nnn.jpg
http://i55.tinypic.com/zsu2x4.jpg
http://i54.tinypic.com/a2vwpj.jpg

I sat the door skins in place, and built a frame to hold the body contour to the doors once removed. Plans are to reproduce the wood in steel, and build em back.
http://i56.tinypic.com/2evraja.jpg
http://i53.tinypic.com/308cryd.jpg
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This post is up to date.

I built a roll around to hold the motor/trans. This way I can sort out the wiring since I plan to use the EFI. I was told this was a running motor, and I removed it from the wrecked truck but I have yet to hear it run. I removed all of what I thought I may need to keep the EFI. Ive stripped the wiring harness down to bare minimum for the EFI. Yesterday I put a battery to it and some fuel. Motor turned over and has spark, but has yet to bust off. I hope to figure out more this evening.
http://i52.tinypic.com/rgw5ls.jpg

i thought i was the only person to use the term " bust off " :LOL:.. may be hard to deliver the nescessary 80 or so lbs of fuel pressure to get it to bust off you think :rolleyes: .. that looks like a ford truck 300

Good choice on the chop; much improved. This thing is cool; very different model to work with. Keep going and keep the pictures coming!

I did my 32 chevy 2dr sedan the same way...I hated all that wood. and putting steel in the doors was probably the worst part of the job. Used a station wagon roof and chopped the top the same way.

awesome build and what an unique make of car and with awesome family history,way to go. I like the idea of the straight six engine with fuel injection, will make a excellent cruiser.

Wow a three generation family owned restorod! Keep posting, I like what you are doing.

Thanks for the feedback.

Yesterday I almost got the motor running. It fired and cleared out the exhaust, then the starter gave out. Hopefully today with another starter I can hear it run. The motor is a 4.9L 300 6cylinder from a 91 F150. The transmission is from the same and is 5spd manual. I think it should be a nice set up for a driver. Using the EFI was a big challenge but after taking some time with it, and finding the right wiring schematic I think I might just be able to pull this off.

That project shows all kinds of elegance already. I like it. I would ordinarily disagree with cutting up a rare antique but that one is gonna look really good. Please keep us informed!

I worked with a guy in Iowa who had beautiful '34 Hup. I was admiring it one day and asked him what was involved in restoring it to its state of perfection.

He said "I washed it."

Some people have all the luck.


Jim

Awesome build, how many hup's were built in '28?

Those family photo's are great too! What do you think was wrapped up and perched on the rear bumper in the third photo???

Keep those photo's and descriptions coming!!!

By my research there were 48,911 Century 6's produced.

As for the roll on the rear of the car, it was used for camping in that the canvas was stretched between two cars and slept under during family outings or travel in general. The story as its told to me is that my great-grandfather had a brother, and their mother was of wealth and bought both a new 28 Hupmobile. The car originaly was from Chittenango, NY and its told that my great-grandfather moved south for a job around the time of the great depression. The other Hup is beleived to be in the bottom of a lake after a drunken episode.

http://i53.tinypic.com/25jedf6.jpg

[QUOTE=HOSS429;440330]i thought i was the only person to use the term " bust off "]

What you talking about, Hoss? "Bust off" is definitely the correct term. I'm with Chicken Legs. Everybody should say that.

Back when two-wheelers were my thing, none of my distinguished associates would say he "kick started" his bike. That would cause people to make mean comments about his manliness.

He would say he "busted it off".

And, of course, we are all familiar with Tony Hulman's famous command at the start of all of the Indianapolis 500 races:

"GENTLEMEN, BUST OFF YOUR ENGINES"


Jim

Cool facts on the car, can't believe they cost so much back then. For reference my mom bought a new 1969 mustang coupe for $2635 I believe, in 1969.


1928 Hupmobile Century 6 Series A
Sedan
Standard Specifications
Show Summary
Original Base Price $1,395.00
No. Produced 48,911
Body
Body Maker
No. Doors 4
Passengers 5
Model Number
Weight 3,040lbs
Dimension
Wheelbase 114 inches
Length
Width
Height
Front Tread
Rear Tread
Engine
Type Own L-head
Displacement 211.5 cu. in.
Cylinders 6
Bore & Stroke 3 1/4 & 4 1/4 inches
Compression Ratio-Std
Compression Ratio-Opt
Brake Horsepower
Rated Horsepower 25.3
Torque
Main Bearings 4
Valve Lifters
Block Material
Engine Numbers
Engine No. Location On cylinder block
Lubrication Pressure to all bearings excluding wrist pin
Carburetor
Type
Make Stromberg
Transmission
Type
Drive Rear wheel drive
No. Of Gears
Gear Ratios
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
Reverse
Clutch Type Single plate
Clutch Size
Axle Type Semifloating
Differential Spiral bevel
Differential Ratio
Suspension
Front Semi-elliptic leaf springs
Rear Semi-elliptic leaf springs
Steering Gear Cam & lever
Brakes
Service Internal expanding on 4 wheels mechanical
Front Size
Rear Size
Emergency Internal expanding on 4 wheels
Size
Other Systems Specifications
Exhaust System
Ignition System
Battery
Cooling System Water pump
Radiator
Fuel Type
Mileage
Wheels, Rims & Tires
Wheel Type Artillery
Wheel Mfr
Wheel Size
Tire Type
Tire Size 29 x 5.5
Spare Location
Capacities
Fuel
Oil
Transmission
Cooling System
Rear Differential
Front Differential Not applicable
Transfer Case Not applicable
Classic Rating Not Rated
VIN/ID
VIN/Serial no. A69,700 to A75,000
VIN Description
VIN Location Plate on dash near steering column.

[QUOTE=Whiplash23T; I like the idea of the straight six engine with fuel injection, will make a excellent cruiser.]

Speaking as an admittedly impractical dude with maybe $18.00 in the bank, I think I'd be looking around for a straight eight ..... Buick if a person likes OHV's or a Pontiac or Packard if a person digs flatheads. Then I'd play around with whatever kind of induction system and dress-up items interested me at the moment.

I had a '51 Chieftain with the big straight eight. When all that cast iron was idling it was dead quiet and vibration free.

Have fun!

Jim

I finally got the motor to 'bust off'. Turns out the reman'd starter was bad. So now I have a running EFI six!!

Question: How do you fabricate brackets for pulleys and keep everything in line? With my hood over the motor things are too wide with the spread of the belt/accessories for everything to clear. Also I dont have a need for the smog pump or the power steering pump. I need brackets to mount the alternator and A/C and keep things slim. Also what about serpentine belt length. Seems you would have to find whats out there and build from that. Any suggestions? BTW this is my first build, no sense starting on an easy one!

Yahooo! Congrats on the bust off!

With regard to the brackets, I tried to look around the internet, but didnt have much luck...how about modifying the one that you have? Someone out there must have run into this issue before!

Some times you can use what you have and just evenly cut the spacers to get everything to line up, although it's harder than it sounds. Other times you can pirate stuff off another engine that will work, say the same engine in a different model setup? I know a few places will even manufacture pully and bracket setups for you out of billet, but that gets real pricey. You also can try looking on ebay for that engine series parts and see if any of the brackets would look like they would work for you. This is a tough part of mixing engines and bodies from different stuff that we all run into. The best solution usually is finding someone else using the same engine setup you are, and seeing what they came up with. You'd be amazed what you can stumble across on a carefully worded goggle search. You might even go the a forum that specializes in your EFI engine and ask a few questions there, I did that on Ford Truck Enthusiasts ith my 460/ 1948 Ford truck and found about 20 people with the same setup, that were very helpful. I hope this helps, Steve.

Today I got my MustangII front installed (from Fatman). Turned out pretty good. It really feels good to be able to bolt tires back under this thing. Next is to hang the rear. Looks as if I may have to notch the frame for proper clearance.
http://i54.tinypic.com/16jjyvc.jpg
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http://i51.tinypic.com/24b6zdd.jpg
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Well done and that ride height certainly looks good and the wheels fit the guards to a T.

:D Very nicely done - all that wood would scare me off if it wasn't there originally for a pattern. There's at least one locally here - I've talked with the owner, it too is nicely done. I think when you have a unique car, they do turn out nice.

I cut the firewall and sat the I6 in. Motor wise not too bad. The transmission bell housing has me second guessing the decision to use a straight shift. Looks like it may be tight to have three pedals. I may be able to shift the motor some to the right but other than that I dont know.

Anyone have any ideas?

http://i39.tinypic.com/3531nyv.jpg
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That's a long one for sure!

I bought a 59 Merc. Monterey that has a Y-Block 312 and 2spd auto. Ive thought about possibly using this, however the sump in the front of the motor may be an issue. I guess worse case scenario I could put in a SBC.

Any thoughts on the 312?

http://i41.tinypic.com/2i94kcx.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stovens

That's a long one for sure!

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;) that`s what she said !!:eek: ... you could shorten your body a bit more .. you`ve cut it up pretty good so far :rolleyes:.. what i mean is move your firewall back 6 inches or so if the frame curvature will allow it ..

What a great project to be going on 3 generations owned. The stories and old pics certainly add to the project as a whole. Can't wait to see what you post up next for progress!

Not a Ford guy but you might be able to go to a V-belt type setup and gain a few much needed inches off the front of the motor. You might also look at pedals that hang down and swing.
I'm sure that had a 4-banger orginally. A V6 or 8 would prolly fit without cutting the firewall out and less hassle.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MRTS33

I'm sure that had a 4-banger orginally. A V6 or 8 would prolly fit without cutting the firewall out and less hassle.

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The car orignally had a 6 (6 of the Century I might add). My thinking was that surely a 6 would fit back without too much hassle, but live and learn. Im thinking I may end up with using a wedge. Thanks for the reply.

Id check into a floor mounted pedal box for clearance before deciding to go with another motor, i think someone mentioned it before about trying a bottom mounted pedal but theres a lot of after market companies that manufacture floor mounted pedal boxes and most are designed around racing so they are smaller and take up less space. just my thoughts before possibly changing directions to the 312 or a SBC. My buddy is building a car from that era and since space is so limited id suggested to him about buying an after market box to save on space.

Well, I dragged a Buick Roadmaster home and had my way with it. Ive found tearing apart a car to be good stress relief, especially when you have no intention of putting it back together. Ive placed the LT1 and auto between the frame rails of the Hup. Things look alot better. No distributor, rear sump, low intake height, and only two pedals to contend with.

Nailhead Buick engines are very cool in a hotrod, especially if you are going for a retro look. The also have a lot of torque for their size and their are speed parts available. IMO, it is a lot better choice than the Ford V8.

LT1 will make a nice combo. Use the Roadmaster for lots of little parts.

I sat the motor between the rails for a look. Looks good enough to commit so Ive began building the motor mounts. Look maw,, its got a wedge in it.

http://i41.tinypic.com/6zsuhz.jpg
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