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01-01-2012 11:14 AM #61
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01-01-2012 11:20 AM #62
Ive been working on the engine wiring harness. I extended the wires to mount the PCM in between the front frame horns.
I still have a few items to finish, but its close to being ready to run, (hopefully).
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01-01-2012 11:21 AM #63
I built the triangulated 4-link, and hung the 8.8 rear. I still have to cut out for drive shaft clearance on the cross member, as well as cut the frame for suspension clearance, as the ride height has the axle 1" below the frame rail.
This is my first attempt at building a rear suspension, feedback encouraged!
Initial set up. Pinion angle on 3 degrees up:
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01-01-2012 11:23 AM #64
Everything tacked in.
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01-04-2012 03:56 AM #65
I have about a 1/4" side to side axle movement. Anyway to get this out? Also, how much clearance should I allow between the frame and rear axle?
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01-04-2012 06:42 AM #66
Jim,
I don't remember Bill Rogers but I didn't come to Texas untill 1981. I was a member of Brents "Club Cobra". When he started this site I joined. I was working on a 30 model A project which I sold b4 finishing. (My wife hasn't let me live that one down yet). I retired last year and started building my lifelong dream, a rod I can drive. I've used as many early '28 parts as I can find but the only parts I have cut beyond restoration are 12" off the back of the bed. We need to meet for coffee one day.
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01-04-2012 07:32 AM #67
CL i'd try 4" to start. I'm surprised you have side motion with that system. You could do a panard rod.
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01-04-2012 08:31 AM #68
Wont springs and shocks help to tighten the 1/4" up. I am anxious to see how the LT1 works out. I picked up a 94 Roadmaster with 50K miles on it just before Xmas. I would like to figure how to put a 50 chevy 1/2 ton on the frame. Sure would make things easier. The Hupmobile is moving right along.
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01-08-2012 11:41 AM #69
I got the slack out of the 4-link. Turns out I had a bad cut on one of my bushing sleeves.
I bought a Manex rear air from 'U yank it' which came out of a limo. I figured for $40 bucks the self contained heat and air was worth a shot. The size is a little more than I could stuff under the dash in its entirety so I decided to cut a hole thru the firewall and recess the double fan motor. It moves some air.
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01-08-2012 11:44 AM #70
I got it tucked under the dash pretty well. The car orginally had wood sill plates, which Ive redone in steel. I think I will duct a vent into the steel sill plate since its hollow, to channel heat and air to the rear of the car.
Built a cover.
Last edited by Chicken Legs; 01-08-2012 at 11:57 AM.
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01-12-2012 07:59 AM #71
cool project! It looks like you have the wiring layed out pretty well, but if you need some help sorting out all that extra LT1 wiring shbox.com was a huge help for me. It is based on the Camaro/Firebird, but I'm sure most of the Roadmaster stuff is the same and it could help identifying what you don't need.'35 Ford coupe- LT1/T56, '32 Ford pickup, 70 GTO convertible, 06 GTO
Robert
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01-12-2012 10:05 AM #72
That tin work looks good.
Great idea on the HVAC.Scott
31 Ford five window
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01-12-2012 11:17 AM #73
Yep your solution to the size issue was fantastic. Like the results. Nice sheet metal work!" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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01-13-2012 05:15 AM #74
35fordcoupe - thanks for the wiring link
ScooterCo & Stovens - thanks for the feedback and compliment. I bent the tin around a fire extinquisher, and thats the first Ive used a bead roller. Im pleased with the results.
Questions:
Whats a good source for rear coil over shocks?
How would I figure what length and what weight to buy?
Im thinking the longest I can stuff under the car the better the ride will be, and as far as weight Ive read that the car was around #3000 original, so I would assume that number wouldnt change too much.
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01-13-2012 06:56 AM #75
If you use the search option at the upper right of each page, type in "coil over" then search. It'll give you all sorts of info found in the threads. Here's one that I was doing for my car. Coil over replacement
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Welcome to CHR. I think that you need to hook up your vacuum advance. At part throttle when cruising you have less air and fuel in each cylinder, and the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed...
MSD 8360 distributor vacuum advance