I am so excited, this just got here after lunch. I am going to build a traditional 't' modified from it.
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I am so excited, this just got here after lunch. I am going to build a traditional 't' modified from it.
You should be excited, that is very cool. :) Modified's are one of my favorites. What are your plans engine and drivetrain wise?
And, we expect LOTS of pictures all along the way. :D
Don
Yes, there will be lots of pics and room for advice. The engine is an old twincam 6cyl XKE motor i gathered up, 4 speed gear box, V8 banjo rear with model 'a' ends and top mounted spring, 12gal gas tank from a '30 chrysler, suicide front end, wide5 wheels, cowl steer from an old sprint car, 3X2 solex sidedrafts, model 'a' frame, lever shocks - you know, old school
I wouldn't change a thing on that list. The engine will keep em guessing and should move it down the road in good fashion. :)
Don
That gonna be sweet. I really like the modifieds. I almost went that route myself, but I wanted to be able to use mine for work some so I needed the pickup bed. I will for sure be watching this one. Keep us posted. I also like the unusual choice for motor. It should definitely scoot...........:D
Great combo - that is as long as you dump the SU carbs and any ignition wiring that says Lucas:eek:.
Again - already waiting for pictures
Looking forward to seeing this one come together.
Going to be a way kewl setup on this one! Ditto what Dave said on the Lucas parts, they look great all cleaned up and setting on a shelf somewhere, my minimal experience level with Lucas products has convinced me that their reliablity level is a tad bit on the low side!!!!!:rolleyes::LOL::LOL:
I've heard it said that lucas switches have 3 positions: 'Off, Dim & Flicker'
Lucas........The Prince of Darkness. :D
Don
We knocked the brackets and barnicles off a model 'a' frame and found a few extra bends in it, so the crossmembers had to come off to get it back to a usable condition.
I had this work fixture that wasn't being used so i added the rear axle supports, the rear tire is to be 27", the uprights are set so the axle centerline is 13 1/2".
I have decided the rear crossmember should be 12 1/2" ahead of the rear axle and that i need 6" of ground clearance, the 2nd pic shows the crossmember support being located, getting this piece square and true is most important, all measurement will come from it and the left rail of the work fixture.
The ground clearance will be 6" so i cut a bunch of 2X3 box tube and welded them together to make 6" risers, doing it this way the work fixture will represent the ground and it'll be easier to visualize everything.
To get the seat low enough it has to be below the top of the frame rail, the 1st pic shows a piece of the body sitting on the stock 'a' rails and you can see there isn't any way to get the seat low enough. I'll have to reshape the model 'a' rails to the dimensions of the body subframe and remove the subframe so the body will now set down over the rails leaving the middle wide open. I set the body on the work fixture and did a rough outline of the perimeter. I welded 1X3 to the 6" box risers and then tacked these to the work fixture in the shape of the body outline. The 2nd pic shows a looksee at how it was going.
After getting the perimeter tacked up i set the body on top - 3rd pic - and located exactly where it will go. I then ran around the body with primer and made the outline of the body in the 4th pic
I love modifieds. :D That is going to give you a great start. Keep us posted as you go.
Don
Sorry guys, the pics came out backwards in order. Anyway, now i have a permiter i welded 1X3 around where the body will sit, i'll use these to align the frame against. The 1st and 2nd pis show the perimeter and the frame sitting there to gage the amount of forming.
The 3rd pic shows the frame in the press, it took 3 passes to get to teh 4th pic of it sitting in place
Well, i guess the pics just come out in whatever order. The next pic shows both rails formed and they are closely aligned in the front so i guess i did something right. I then made a cut in front of the firewall - i could not figure out how to stretch the metal i would not have made the cut - and pulled the rails back out and added the front crossmember. The final pics show the reshaped frame sitting as it belongs and there isn't any clamps holding it there.
I've got the holes and a couple cracks welded up in the right rail, to get the front low i made a 7deg cut in front of the firewall and another just behind the crossmember. The pics show the cut and the welded rail sitting back on the jig to compare with the other rail.
I'm working on the left rail now and will have it done tomorrow. And i have cut out a 10" kick for the rear crossmember, i may get it done tomorrow as well.
I am having a problem with the motor placement, who'da thunk dept, it is too tall! A buddy was picking up some stuff today and looked at everything and said the motor would be higher than the cowl! I've been focusing on suspension stuff and angles etc never gave the motor a thought other than 'yup, there it is' kinda thing. That motor is about 27" tall! A sbc is about 20" from oil pan bottom to top of valve cover. I have a couple ideas that i can do and the hood could get a couple functional blisters running the full length for the cam cover clearance and that might work.
Cool project with some great choices for the powertrain and suspension. I'm looking foward to watching this build. Great start already.
Looking good, Great pictures. This is going to be one sweet ride.
I had an MG with that darn SU carb on it. It never ran right. Webers on a fabricated intake manifold would look cool!
Don Jr.
Still working on the rails, they're old so need lots of attention. I plated the inside of the rails where i made the pie cut, cut out and machined the rear stubs and kickers, began boxing the rails and pulling the body off the original subframe.
The frame is coming along nicely.
Can't wait to see more.
Had to lay off the frame for a bit while waiting for fuelline and brakeline etc so's i can weld them into the inside of the framerail befor i finish the boxing.
I blew the body apart to its major pieces, scrapping the subframe and crossmembers. I've started making the new subframe and have the body semiassembled on a workbench. I am adding body bracing to tye it to the floor/subframe. When done the body will be set on the frame in one piece and since it has to be so strong i am using 16 & 18ga steel.
Made more progress on the cab, finished boxing the rails and have the fuel line installed. The pics show how i did the fuel line, i welded a 7/16 nut and a 3/8 bushing is a snug fit into it, then i run the 3/8 line thru the bushings.
The can pics showthe subframe pieces, the steel is 16ga - very thick. I wanted it structural because it is combination floor, body support and the seats. I started with the rear filler panel, that panel tyed everything together and once it was in place i made the crossmember - it is under your knees. Once it was tacked then i could do the front to back piece that tyed the crossmember and the rear panel together. This piece also creates a tunnel for a suspension member, the drive shaft is above it. I made formers for the rear panel to the crossmember tye panel, cut the rear out and shaped a trim piece to seal the exposed metal ends and add a little flair. Once that panel was welded in place and tyeing the crossmember to the rear panel i removed the cab back wall and started on the floor rear corners, once they were done i roughed in a panel for the drivers' seat.
Few more pics, in whatever order
I have the seat cushion pockets tackwelded in place and the body setting where it'll go. Remember, all this work - bending the frame rails and making the new subframe - just to sit as low as possible in the car. With this cowl you can stretch your legs out and get as comfortable as possible.
These thre pics show the completed seat area and two views of the body. The steel is 16ga and the body is so strong that i could've hinged a door and it would've opened and closed.
I have yet to start on the front floor boards, i'll wait for a transmission befor i get intop that part. I ran into a big snag, when i set the Jag motor in there it was too long! It is about 10" longer than a sbc and i thought i could hide or minimize it. No way, the hood would've been long enough to launch a flyin turtle and would've looked just as stoopid.
So i made a couple adjustments and decided a V8 would be ok, what do you guys think? We going in the right direction now?
Hell NO!!!! You go back to using that jag motor and package that old boat anchor with the funny looking intake up and send it all down to me.Heck you would be to embarrassed to be seen with that engine in America. At least down under I will be the only one to be seen with that odd engine.
Nice try, Whiplash ! :LOL: Your modified is coming along great. Like the frame and tin work a lot, and that engine fits the look perfectly.
Don
Haha...Whiplash,ya old con artist..that mill wouldnt work in your frame..It was built for a wimpy old mouse..not a muscular hemi..:LOL: ojh..that looks kool in there..Send Whiplash the Jag engine instead..:LOL:..Yup,that little modified looks good..:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash23T
Front end stuff and motor mounts
Starting to reallly look like something now. I like it.
Don
Lookin' good!!
I hope you have a soft foot. That Columbia 2 speed diffy will gladly break itself into tiny pieces if you hop on the loud pedal very hard:LOL: Even a mild flattie could do it with relative ease.
Are you using solid motor mounts?
No doubt, the axles & rear are just toothpicks really and without some restraint it'll be a long walk home. Yes, the motor & tranny are/will be solid mounted. Its a hot rod, let'er shake a little.
Well i like the way this is going.
Hey,to save your foot wear from those long walks,I'm still keen to take that over powerful boat anchor off your hands as that Jag will just have the right power for your rear end.:LOL: The car is going to be awesome though even with all them carbies to feed.:cool:
It was fun going back thru this thread. Almost eveything i had done here i have tossed out.
Something about it didn't set right, i quit work and just kept looking at it and after a few months i realized that it looked like a kit i could get from speedway!
I cut the frame back apart, the rear kick is now gone and i pinched the front rails a couple inches. I had to tossout the interior to make room for some suspension stuff as i switched to quarter ellips and the actual frame ended at the back of the cab. I added an ealy style rollbar - just below your head of course - to support the gas tank and some suspension stuff.
I am in the process of remaking the interior, i have just made one other change (i gained a little more seat room by relocation some suspension fastenors), i hope to save what i've done in the interior but if i have to do it for a 3rd time then that is what i'll do.
I just finished remaking the passenger door and have pulled the sheetmetal off the upper section of the cowl to make new. The door latch insert looks wonky in the pic, it must be a combination of angles because it is deadnuts when the door is closed.
The gas tank is '30s chrysler, i relocated the filler and the fuel sender etc, that is what the skim coats are on the tank. I think it was made to set upright.
I am useing cowl lights from an old truck for my taillights - i have no idea how i'll get them red but that is tommorows problem.
The roll bar is chromemoly as well as the gas tank surround.
Nice work on the floor pans, love that new steel look!
Gotta echo that..Floor pan looks kool..Gotta show this to a friend,who is building a bucket,using one of our bodies,,and wants to get down low,like this..Awesome work..:cool::cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
I keep pecking away at it. I'll do something only to tear it all back apart. I'm working on the transcover and thought i'd take a pic and wound up getting a few other pictures as well.
I've spent many hours on the doors, they actually work now. I have to add bracing to the bun panel but will wait until i make the top as that will all have to work together.
I made the steering removable, I bolted it in for one of the pictures and have the steering arms coming this week so i can finish that.
I am trying to get the floor finished so i can weld the cowl top on and finish the body.
I jumped back to the first post and it was like a walk down memory lane! Haven't seen some of those posters in awhile...
Still love the work you're doing on this. Glad to see you're still at it too!