Thread: 1949 Chevy, Viper powered

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Cool truck Looks good in between the frame rails, even tho it is a dodge LOL JK . Think God you did not put a ford in it LOL . Really tho looks good, wheels look good too.

Thats on its way to being a fine looking, running pick-em up,
unusual for sure,,, keep the pictures coming,

Remember to make sure you can get a decent radiator to help cool that HP. You want to use something with at least 2 rows of 1.25" tube width. It's going to be one wicked truck when it's done but don't make the cooling system an afterthought.

Thanks for the comments, I am pretty sure it will be getting an Afco radiator, custom built with the 2 inch water necks for the Viper to keep it cool, already have the 3000CFM push fan. I don't think too much is an afterthought on this beast, i own just about everything i need to build this truck, owned it or had it on order before i even picked up the '49! My goal was to have the thing together and driveable by April (minus paint, just road testing), but got sent to Iraq til July, so now i am aiming for September, with paint. Most of the things i do not have are cosmetic, or things i have to fit something else before i order what i need. I have a list of all of that. This is my first street rod, but not my first car. In the background of one of the pics you can see the yellow nose and red body of a dirt late model. Built many of those and raced them as well (from 14yrs old to 26yrs, 28 now). Too many summer trips to Iraq (racing season) and kinda let that go to the wayside, needed a new hobby that involved cars, so this is it, and sad to say, its way more fun, even though i don't get to rub fenders and sling it sideways every weekend! Anyways, here are some pics of the Motor mounts of how i got that thing shoved in there, the left side had to be special to allow the steering to clear it, and the motor mounts stretch all the way down to the bottom lip of the frame so i don't have to worry about stress cracks in the sidewall of the chassis. In the middle of them they are also poly urethane mounted. Also attached some of the boxing of the frame, frame was also narrowed behind the cab about 8 inches to fit the tires without widening the fenders. All of it was jigged while doing that too. Very nice Mustang 2 front from Fulltiltstreetrods.com. Dad owns a fab shop, so i can build about anything, everything you see i have done on my own, only things i forsee needing assistance on are final body work (sanding/blocking/paint) and electronics/wiring. Going to have custom headers made by Stainless Header Mfg, as the eshaust manifolds on the Viper are very restrictive, and they come out right on top of the frame rails.

Originally Posted by sunsetdart

Remember to make sure you can get a decent radiator to help cool that HP. You want to use something with at least 2 rows of 1.25" tube width. It's going to be one wicked truck when it's done but don't make the cooling system an afterthought.

I own just about every part to finish the truck besides stuff that i have to fit other parts then buy the right part. Talked to Afco about a radiator, custom build to fit and capable of cooling the beast. Here are some pictures of the Motor mounts and boxing of the frame. Done every bit of work myself, dad owns a fab shop and i have been welding and building stuff since i was 6 (28 now). And i am an engineer, so i can design most anything i need thats "special". the motor mounts go from the top of the frame to the bottom, so i shouldn't have to worry about stress cracking of the boxing plates. Boxing plates are 3/16, and motor mounts are 3/16 with poly mounts stuffed inside. Notice the left motor mount had to be fabbed to clear the steering shaft clearance. Mustang 2 IFS is from Fulltilt, with a few modifications by me during install for strength. Having a fab shop we see a bit of everything and I know where the weak points are from having to fix cracks and re-enforce other peoples builds after they drive them and they break.