Thread: Failed American made motor mount

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Oh well, what else would I be doing if I wasn't puttering with the car. Made for an interesting drive the other evening. I trashed the Chinese made mounts that came with my TCI chassis for some "GOOD" American made. Less then 1000 miles.

Failed motor mount (1).JPGFailed motor mount.JPG

Dave, it could be that the bonding simply failed, but it might be something else. I was killing the engine mounts in the Jeep pickup I swapped a 5.0 Ford engine into, they would separate like yours after a short time. I found out what was doing it was that I had them on a bad angle (the bottom portion out a little too far) allowing the engine to want to drop down and tear the motor mounts apart.

What I did on my 27 (also using the same mount you have there) is that I drilled through the mount and put two 3/8 grade 8 bolts through there, mechanically bonding the two steel portions together and reinforcing the vulcanized bond. I knew with the torque the stroker was going to exert on them, especially with a stick shift, that the mounts were going to take a beating, so I used an old drag racing trick.

Just a thought.

Don

Here is how I positioned the bolts, nuts, and washers. WIth this setup it can never break again.

Great suggestion Don. That for sure is a heluva lot less expensive then the fancy polyurethane versions plus I can do it tomorrow.

I do have to admit - I WAS playing just a wee bit when the mount ripped apart. Yes, that l'il 302 will go some

Don,
You leave the bolts just snug and use nylock nuts, right? I've never done this, but it makes sense!

Originally Posted by rspears

Don,
You leave the bolts just snug and use nylock nuts, right? I've never done this, but it makes sense!

Yep, Roger, just snugged up with nylocks on them. It really doesn't noticably affect the cushioning of the mounts, doesn't make it harsh at all. On my 27 I only did it on the drivers side as that one takes most of the twisting force from the engine trying to lift up there, and I didn't want to do the old chain to the frame trick.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

..............I only did it on the drivers side as that one takes most of the twisting force from the engine trying to lift up there, and I didn't want to do the old chain to the frame trick.

Don

Interesting as the pass side is what failed on mine - I also found out that there is no high RPM skip in my engine

I'm going to replace that side then the driver's side later - assuming I can get away with it for a while emk[]jmmsx w

Hope this makes sense - the poodle pup just helped me type

If the passenger side tore it was probably bad vulcanizing (or whatever that bonding process is). Generally, the one on the drivers side is what tears loose, from my experience. I had the same issue on my 68 Mustang with the 351 Cleveland in it, but I just chained the engine down on that side and no more breakage.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

If the passenger side tore it was probably bad vulcanizing (or whatever that bonding process is). Generally, the one on the drivers side is what tears loose, from my experience. I had the same issue on my 68 Mustang with the 351 Cleveland in it, but I just chained the engine down on that side and no more breakage.

Don

I agree 100%. I've never seen a passenger side fail except for the time I let my '60 348 hang from the front mounts and the exhaust pipes as I pulled the tranny for the first time (we learn from our mistakes, sometimes ) The torque of the engine lifts the driver's side and tends to compress the passenger side. Unless your frame mounts are spread a lot putting twist on the mounts I'd say you must have gotten a bad mount.

Go back to my original picture, not the one Don marked up and you can just about see the vulcanization failure that led to the rip out of the main body of the elastomer. The replacements will have some through bolts. The later Ford motor mounts, '75 up, were fully captured by some brackets but are not, unfortunately, interchangeable as they locate the engine differently.

You could always call Mike Casella "pro60chevy" He rebuilds motor mounts @ Then & Now Automotive among other things.

http://www.computermagiconline.com/y...4611.1240.html


scroll to the bottom of the page.

Originally Posted by pro70z28

You could always call Mike Casella "pro60chevy" He rebuilds motor mounts @ Then & Now Automotive among other things.

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scroll to the bottom of the page.

Pro - unless I become a member, it wont let me see anything.

A note on that - if that board is so exclusive that only members can see what's there, they will not grow. That is unless they don't want to expand

BAck in my small block Ford days I used the trick Don, mentioned ever since I tore I my first mount in half. As I recall I usually I used 5/16 grade 8 bolts without any further problems.

As Roger mentioned you want to leave them just very lightly snugged (you don't want to turn it into a solid mount) and either use a self locking nut or double nut it.

i use a 1 1/2 stainless ground strap on the drivers side. try to get it a little snug and it will hold it down and ground the engine frame at the same time.

Originally Posted by IC2

Pro - unless I become a member, it wont let me see anything.

A note on that - if that board is so exclusive that only members can see what's there, they will not grow. That is unless they don't want to expand

Dave that was just a link to a thread on a forum, not the company web site.
They have been around for a long time & have a huge, huge inventory. If they don't have something most likely Mike can rebuild the old part or make a new one from scratch.

Fuel Pump Rebuilding Kits - Then And Now Automotive

OK - that one I can access. The other just dropped me at the log-in with no where else to go.

Lots of interesting stuff - I'll bookmark it just in case, but for about $15 each will just replace in kind what I have with some reinforcing bolts. Thanks for the link