Thread: Failed American made motor mount

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Oh well, what else would I be doing if I wasn't puttering with the car. Made for an interesting drive the other evening. I trashed the Chinese made mounts that came with my TCI chassis for some "GOOD" American made. Less then 1000 miles.

Failed motor mount (1).JPGFailed motor mount.JPG

Dave, it could be that the bonding simply failed, but it might be something else. I was killing the engine mounts in the Jeep pickup I swapped a 5.0 Ford engine into, they would separate like yours after a short time. I found out what was doing it was that I had them on a bad angle (the bottom portion out a little too far) allowing the engine to want to drop down and tear the motor mounts apart.

What I did on my 27 (also using the same mount you have there) is that I drilled through the mount and put two 3/8 grade 8 bolts through there, mechanically bonding the two steel portions together and reinforcing the vulcanized bond. I knew with the torque the stroker was going to exert on them, especially with a stick shift, that the mounts were going to take a beating, so I used an old drag racing trick.

Just a thought.

Don

Here is how I positioned the bolts, nuts, and washers. WIth this setup it can never break again.

Great suggestion Don. That for sure is a heluva lot less expensive then the fancy polyurethane versions plus I can do it tomorrow.

I do have to admit - I WAS playing just a wee bit when the mount ripped apart. Yes, that l'il 302 will go some

Don,
You leave the bolts just snug and use nylock nuts, right? I've never done this, but it makes sense!

Originally Posted by rspears

Don,
You leave the bolts just snug and use nylock nuts, right? I've never done this, but it makes sense!

Yep, Roger, just snugged up with nylocks on them. It really doesn't noticably affect the cushioning of the mounts, doesn't make it harsh at all. On my 27 I only did it on the drivers side as that one takes most of the twisting force from the engine trying to lift up there, and I didn't want to do the old chain to the frame trick.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

..............I only did it on the drivers side as that one takes most of the twisting force from the engine trying to lift up there, and I didn't want to do the old chain to the frame trick.

Don

Interesting as the pass side is what failed on mine - I also found out that there is no high RPM skip in my engine

I'm going to replace that side then the driver's side later - assuming I can get away with it for a while emk[]jmmsx w

Hope this makes sense - the poodle pup just helped me type

If the passenger side tore it was probably bad vulcanizing (or whatever that bonding process is). Generally, the one on the drivers side is what tears loose, from my experience. I had the same issue on my 68 Mustang with the 351 Cleveland in it, but I just chained the engine down on that side and no more breakage.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

If the passenger side tore it was probably bad vulcanizing (or whatever that bonding process is). Generally, the one on the drivers side is what tears loose, from my experience. I had the same issue on my 68 Mustang with the 351 Cleveland in it, but I just chained the engine down on that side and no more breakage.

Don

I agree 100%. I've never seen a passenger side fail except for the time I let my '60 348 hang from the front mounts and the exhaust pipes as I pulled the tranny for the first time (we learn from our mistakes, sometimes ) The torque of the engine lifts the driver's side and tends to compress the passenger side. Unless your frame mounts are spread a lot putting twist on the mounts I'd say you must have gotten a bad mount.

You could always call Mike Casella "pro60chevy" He rebuilds motor mounts @ Then & Now Automotive among other things.

http://www.computermagiconline.com/y...4611.1240.html


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Originally Posted by pro70z28

You could always call Mike Casella "pro60chevy" He rebuilds motor mounts @ Then & Now Automotive among other things.

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scroll to the bottom of the page.

Pro - unless I become a member, it wont let me see anything.

A note on that - if that board is so exclusive that only members can see what's there, they will not grow. That is unless they don't want to expand

BAck in my small block Ford days I used the trick Don, mentioned ever since I tore I my first mount in half. As I recall I usually I used 5/16 grade 8 bolts without any further problems.

As Roger mentioned you want to leave them just very lightly snugged (you don't want to turn it into a solid mount) and either use a self locking nut or double nut it.

i use a 1 1/2 stainless ground strap on the drivers side. try to get it a little snug and it will hold it down and ground the engine frame at the same time.

Shine - I think I know what you mean, but do you have a photo link?

this is edwards 37. it has one on each side if i remember right.
the harveys 37 coupe

I had to bolt together a front mount on our 92 Park Ave w/a Supercharged 3800 mtr. I broke 6 mounts, all were replaced for free & I had tried 3 different makers, ALL broke. I finally fixed it by doing the same thing Don did. We drove it like that for 3yrs before getting rid of the car. Never could tell the difference w/the bolted mount in place...joe