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Oh well, what else would I be doing if I wasn't puttering with the car. Made for an interesting drive the other evening. I trashed the Chinese made mounts that came with my TCI chassis for some "GOOD" American made. Less then 1000 miles.
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Dave, it could be that the bonding simply failed, but it might be something else. I was killing the engine mounts in the Jeep pickup I swapped a 5.0 Ford engine into, they would separate like yours after a short time. I found out what was doing it was that I had them on a bad angle (the bottom portion out a little too far) allowing the engine to want to drop down and tear the motor mounts apart.
What I did on my 27 (also using the same mount you have there) is that I drilled through the mount and put two 3/8 grade 8 bolts through there, mechanically bonding the two steel portions together and reinforcing the vulcanized bond. I knew with the torque the stroker was going to exert on them, especially with a stick shift, that the mounts were going to take a beating, so I used an old drag racing trick.
Just a thought.
Don
Here is how I positioned the bolts, nuts, and washers. WIth this setup it can never break again.
Great suggestion Don. That for sure is a heluva lot less expensive then the fancy polyurethane versions plus I can do it tomorrow.
I do have to admit - I WAS playing just a wee bit when the mount ripped apart. Yes, that l'il 302 will go some :o:LOL:
Don,
You leave the bolts just snug and use nylock nuts, right? I've never done this, but it makes sense!
Yep, Roger, just snugged up with nylocks on them. It really doesn't noticably affect the cushioning of the mounts, doesn't make it harsh at all. On my 27 I only did it on the drivers side as that one takes most of the twisting force from the engine trying to lift up there, and I didn't want to do the old chain to the frame trick.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Don
Interesting as the pass side is what failed on mine - I also found out that there is no high RPM skip in my engineQuote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
I'm going to replace that side then the driver's side later - assuming I can get away with it for a while emk[]jmmsx w
Hope this makes sense - the poodle pup just helped me type
If the passenger side tore it was probably bad vulcanizing (or whatever that bonding process is). Generally, the one on the drivers side is what tears loose, from my experience. I had the same issue on my 68 Mustang with the 351 Cleveland in it, but I just chained the engine down on that side and no more breakage.
Don
I agree 100%. I've never seen a passenger side fail except for the time I let my '60 348 hang from the front mounts and the exhaust pipes as I pulled the tranny for the first time :eek::o (we learn from our mistakes, sometimes ;) ) The torque of the engine lifts the driver's side and tends to compress the passenger side. Unless your frame mounts are spread a lot putting twist on the mounts I'd say you must have gotten a bad mount.Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Go back to my original picture, not the one Don marked up and you can just about see the vulcanization failure that led to the rip out of the main body of the elastomer. The replacements will have some through bolts. The later Ford motor mounts, '75 up, were fully captured by some brackets but are not, unfortunately, interchangeable as they locate the engine differently.
You could always call Mike Casella "pro60chevy" He rebuilds motor mounts @ Then & Now Automotive among other things.
http://www.computermagiconline.com/y...4611.1240.html
scroll to the bottom of the page.
Pro - unless I become a member, it wont let me see anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by pro70z28
A note on that - if that board is so exclusive that only members can see what's there, they will not grow. That is unless they don't want to expand:HMMM:
BAck in my small block Ford days I used the trick Don, mentioned ever since I tore I my first mount in half. As I recall I usually I used 5/16 grade 8 bolts without any further problems.
As Roger mentioned you want to leave them just very lightly snugged (you don't want to turn it into a solid mount) and either use a self locking nut or double nut it.
i use a 1 1/2 stainless ground strap on the drivers side. try to get it a little snug and it will hold it down and ground the engine frame at the same time.
Dave that was just a link to a thread on a forum, not the company web site.Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
They have been around for a long time & have a huge, huge inventory. If they don't have something most likely Mike can rebuild the old part or make a new one from scratch.
Fuel Pump Rebuilding Kits - Then And Now Automotive
OK - that one I can access. The other just dropped me at the log-in with no where else to go.
Lots of interesting stuff - I'll bookmark it just in case, but for about $15 each will just replace in kind what I have with some reinforcing bolts. Thanks for the link
Shine - I think I know what you mean, but do you have a photo link?
this is edwards 37. it has one on each side if i remember right.
the harveys 37 coupe
I had to bolt together a front mount on our 92 Park Ave w/a Supercharged 3800 mtr. I broke 6 mounts, all were replaced for free & I had tried 3 different makers, ALL broke. I finally fixed it by doing the same thing Don did. We drove it like that for 3yrs before getting rid of the car. Never could tell the difference w/the bolted mount in place...joe
I picked up a pair of MM from NAPA - and they are from the same manufacturer but a Balkamp part number:eek:
The reinforcing was done with 5/16x2" Gr8. Probably should have used the 3/8. Probably when I install the drivers side, I'll do that one with the bigger bolts.
Thanks loads for the help folks:D
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A "GOTCHA" :CRY:
When I first got it back together and looked at the driver's side, couldn't see any failure beginning. I've since run the engine a bit - sigh!!!
The driver's side MM has been modified, painted and I'm just waiting for the engine to cool after setting the timing and idle. Happily, the tools were still littering the work bench
Those 5/16 bolts will be strong enough. I only used 3/8 because I happened to have the right length in that size at the shop. I think you can see how those bolts will keep the rubber from separating now that you did that. Sometimes we have to improve what the manufacturers sell us. :D
Don
Don, I'm usually of the opinion that big is good, bigger is better. When I do carpentry work, I will use 6-8 nails where 3-4 would work, then before it's nailed, it gets glued then just because I have them, I'll put 2-3 screws in it to make sure.
The pass. side was used for my 'test bed'. I drilled and bolted it back together just to get a feel for how it would look - then did the new ones.
The drivers side went in a lot quicker then the pass., total of about 2 hours with a coffee break, two puppy piddle walks, lunch and a phone call. As long as it was up in the air on jack stands, I cranked the 1/2" settling out of my new front coil over springs and tightened a loose exhaust pipe clamp:D.
We're the same way, everything we build is as if it is going to be used on a Sherman tank. :LOL: Dan and I were just watching a car show the other night where two guys were manually picking up and turning over a frame for a 61 Chevy. We laughed because when I took Dan's rpu frame to the powder coaters four guys had trouble carrying it from my trailer into their shop ! :LOL: At least he never has to worry about frame flex.
Don
Interesting since the original HiPo 289 motor mounts had a through bolt.
