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Thread: Help with a Stang...
          
   
   

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  1. #31
    TuffTrax is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hey guys. I've done some thinking and have gone to work on this project. Here's what I've done thus far:

    I tore down the engine and got everything cleaned up. The next step was taking it to the machine shop. My dad used the same machinist for 30-some-odd-years so I felt he was credible enough. He bored the block to 0.03 but still had a little ridge so continued to bore it to 0.04. There is no ridge left now. The block was bored and honed and then hot-tank rinsed to remove all oil and grease, etc.

    Next came the crank. Henry, my machinist said the crank looked and measured up alright. He polished it up anyway.

    The head was next on the list. My buddy has a shop not too far from my home. Just a mechanic shop, but they have a head planer. I've got him planing the head and knurling the valves...maybe some new vavle guides. Depends on how it looks i guess. I also got a new cam. I purchased a Comp Cam with a lift of 410 and the duration is somewhere around 255 i believe.

    I had Henry order up a master kit for me after he finished the machining. With that I got all the parts u usually do, but i upgraded to some forged pistons...more compression = more happiness. haha.

    Basically Ive got a some performance parts and when its all said and done should be happy. Planning on getting a header, and possibly a 390 or 500 cfm carb. Maybe a turbo in the future, but i've heard turbo carbureted engines aren't worth it...better off with fuel injected engine.

    Any other ideas to spin off of this would be great. Thanks for all your help. PS. Will my stock oval port itake work with a 390 or even a 500cfm?
    Last edited by TuffTrax; 07-29-2008 at 09:59 PM.
    As you climb the ladder of success, remember one thing; all the smart people took the elevator.

    Mike

  2. #32
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '51 Chevy Fleetline and a Ratrod project
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    Quote Originally Posted by TuffTrax
    i've heard turbo carbureted engines aren't worth it...better off with fuel injected engine.
    people that tell you this, don't know how to tune a carb for boost
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  3. #33
    TuffTrax is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    i can't say too much on that topic cuz i don't either. im trying, but its my first time. learnin from some stupid mistakes tho...
    As you climb the ladder of success, remember one thing; all the smart people took the elevator.

    Mike

  4. #34
    TuffTrax is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hey guys. Got the car up and running. sounds like a mean machine with the exhaust off. haha. anyways, i love it. any ideas on how to help lower the rpms? im running about 3250 at 65mph. bigger tire maybe???
    As you climb the ladder of success, remember one thing; all the smart people took the elevator.

    Mike

  5. #35
    IC2
    IC2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by TuffTrax
    Hey guys. Got the car up and running. sounds like a mean machine with the exhaust off. haha. anyways, i love it. any ideas on how to help lower the rpms? im running about 3250 at 65mph. bigger tire maybe???
    What in the world rear gears are in it - sounds like mid 4's??
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  6. #36
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
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    I was thinking the same thing Dave. I've been trying to figure out where I want the the rear ratio at, and have decided around 3:1 should keep the RPM's down on the freeway!
    Mike post a video of it running! Great to hear progress of this sort!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  7. #37
    TuffTrax is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hey guys. I believe my rear ratio is 3.18 or 3.4...not exactly sure though. I wanted to put a 5 speed in, but then i'd have to modify the driveshaft. Thinkin maybe gears and wheels would be cheaper??? I don't know. I just want the rpms to stay a little lower. Better mileage goin back and forth from college...
    As you climb the ladder of success, remember one thing; all the smart people took the elevator.

    Mike

  8. #38
    IC2
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    Neither ratio would put you at 3450 RPM - unless you had your little brother's 12" wagon wheels on it - tho 3.40 is a common Ford ratio.
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  9. #39
    TuffTrax is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    RPMs run 3250 at 65mph. The tires i have now are 185s on a 13 inch rim. Thinkin about goin up to a 15 inch rim, but hard to find a 4 bolt pattern that size...or any size for that matter. I found a 5 speed tranny, but then i'd have to do some driveshaft work...
    As you climb the ladder of success, remember one thing; all the smart people took the elevator.

    Mike

  10. #40
    TuffTrax is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Maybe you can help me out with this. I called back home (Im back in college) and had my dad get the tag code from the rear differential. I don't know if its stock or not. Could you guys help me decode it? From what i've got, the tag reads GF-R5EC5567 231D. I'm not totally sure on all the spaces, but thats the number anyhow. Help Please!!!
    As you climb the ladder of success, remember one thing; all the smart people took the elevator.

    Mike

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