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Thread: ford 289 cam size
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    topthat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    289 cam & parts

     



    Quote Originally Posted by thesals View Post
    yes thats a safe lift cam for a 289, as long as you match your valve springs a stock head should be able to flow that decently.... i would reccomend upgrading to roller rockers though, i've had issues with stock rockers on a cam lifting that tall pulling out the rocker studs
    thanks for help on cam size im building a 65 ford 289 I wont a hard thump sound mabe 500 to 520 cam what size holley carb im going to change springs vavles to 202 & 190 will they work im going to have heads rebuilt & intake ported also going to put 150 or 200 hit of nos. on it what kind of compression do I need

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by topthat View Post
    im building a 65 ford 289 I wont a hard thump sound
    Awwwwww, Jeez, no you don't. Somebody else needs to explain it this time, I'm tired.

    .
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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 66black289 View Post
    ok this is what i got so far, an edelbrock rpm airgap intake, roller rockers, holley 600 cfm double pumper, mallory distributor, and a set of hooker headers. now my problem is that i bought a set of gt40p heads, and im looking for the right headers to fit my 66 mustang. oh i found out by opening the engine that its not stock anymore, its been bored .030 over and it has a high volume oil pump but still with the stock crank.
    GT40P oval port header: Patriot Full-Length Headers H8426 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

  4. #19
    Rrumbler is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
    Awwwwww, Jeez, no you don't. Somebody else needs to explain it this time, I'm tired.

    .
    I agree.



    Once upon a time, we were young and worshipful of things we did not entirely have a grasp on. Now, some days, I am lucky to be able to get a grasp on anything until I get my hands warmed up with my coffee cup..

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    Rrumbler, Aka: Hey you, "Old School", Hairy, and other unsavory monickers.

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  5. #20
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    Welcome to CHR. First, you've resurrected a thread from 2007 here, which is OK, but some may ignore it because of the date.

    Second, from another thread, posted two days ago responding to someone wanting to buy their cam based on idle characteristics:
    Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1
    You don't hear that choppy idle much anymore because it's the sound of a motor being inefficient, using a cam that, for instance, was meant to make power from 3000 to 7500 (race motor) being used on the street to try to make power from, for instance, 1500 to 5000. It's the sound of the air/fuel mixture being pushed back up the intake tract by the too-late closing intake valve and struggling to remain idling. As the fuel/air slug is pushed back up the intake tract, it passes the venturi again (first time was air going the right way, this time is air going the wrong way) and more fuel is added to the slug, because the venturi doesn't care which way the air is moving, it adds fuel every time air goes past it. Then the motor goes to the next intake stroke and the slug of fuel-rich air goes past the venturi again and guess what????????.........the venturi adds even more fuel to the slug!!!!!!!!!!!!. The motor is struggling to idle and will die if you don't continually blip the throttle to clean the motor out and start over. If you have the air cleaner off at night and shine a bright light onto the top of the carburetor, you can see this fog hovering atop the carburetor. It's called standoff and is the fuel/air mixture that has been shoved back up the intake tract by the piston coming up in its bore with the intake valve still open (race cam profile).
    Late model electronically fuel injected vehicles will not tolerate these monkey shines, you can only do this stuff with a carbureted motor.

    I love to hear a choppy idle at the drag strip, where the builder used a race cam because it is a race car, but on the street when I hear this, I just think to myself that the guy didn't know what he was doing when he built the motor. Race motors can and do use all the static compression ratio that they can engineer into the mix and use the appropriate fuel (ethanol, methanol, race gas) to operate the motor. On the street, you are pretty much limited to pump gas if you plan to go anywhere out of your own neighborhood, so you have to build with that in mind. 9.5:1 limit for iron heads and 10.5:1 limit for aluminum heads. With 9.5:1 static compression ratio, you can't use a race cam that lopes because the cam timing is all wrong, closing the intake valve too late to trap enough cylinder pressure to make a good bang and subsequent good power.

    It is true that CompCams has found a way to grind a low compression cam so that it will make the motor idle with a lope, but you won't make the power that you could with the proper cam timing for the static compression ratio that you're using. Here are the 3 different grinds for a BBC. Where the description gives the static compression ratio, it means at least that much static compression ratio to coordinate with the cam timing.
    http://static.speedwaymotors.com/ima.../BBCThumpr.jpg
    The key to making this whole mess work will be the torque converter. If I were doing this, which I wouldn't, I would budget at least $600 for a quality 2800-3000 stall, 10" converter. If you don't begin with a good converter, you'll be taking the whole mess apart to do it again in a little while. Get on the phone and talk with my friends at Hughes Performance....
    Welcome to Hughes Performance - Hughes Performance
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  6. #21
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    262 is as big as i run on the street. The more lope you get the worse it will run. Big cam sounds good but will be a dog without the rest of the motor.
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  7. #22
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    I'll repeat what I said on another thread, "Thumpy cams are for racers . . . and posers."

    Sorry, the devil made me do it.
    NTFDAY, Rrumbler, JeffB2 and 3 others like this.
    Jack

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  8. #23
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    i want off idle to 3500 power range. big cam does not start until 3500 .
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  9. #24
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    Who you calling a poser?...
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  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 36 sedan View Post
    Who you calling a poser?...
    Not you . . . just a general comment that I've made before, and may make again - under the appropriate circumstances.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  11. #26
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    Just teasing you
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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 36 sedan View Post
    Just teasing you
    I know. I am just on a crusade to 'put the thump in the dump!'
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    Jack

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  13. #28
    topthat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    thanks what size cam do u think thanks for all help

  14. #29
    topthat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    hello iv got a set of 1970 shorty headers rusty but good matle of mustang if they work 100.00 + shipping

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by topthat View Post
    thanks what size cam do u think thanks for all help
    In order to intelligently choose a cam for a motor, you must know the exact static compression ratio of the motor. Please read through this tutorial, which explains why....
    http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility
    This information was taken from the Crane Cams engineers and simply condensed into the table that you see on the tutorial. Here is the same info in the application section of the Crane Catalog for 260/289/302 Ford motors. You can see that the recommended compression ratio increases as the cam timing gets snottier.
    http://www.cranecams.com/196-199.pdf

    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 03-09-2016 at 07:01 PM.
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