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Thread: Bad cam/crank sensor?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    vdorobantu is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1986 Ford Mustang LX
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    I tested everything, besides the cam crank sensor. Ok, what happens is, when it won't start(cranks over, and it won't fire), its got gas pressure, no vacuum leaks, cylinder compression i good(at least thats what my co-workers say). Now, the thing it doesn't have is spark. After it cools down, it fires right up. At my shop I've had a car that would die while driving and wouldn't start until it has cooled down. The answer was a crank sensor. I'm going to take my chances tomorrow, and see what happens after i change the sensors on the Thunderchicken(common sense to change them every once in a while). I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the hint, i'll check that first thing.
    If you wanna go fast, go ahead, it's your expensive gas you are wasting

  2. #2
    vdorobantu is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1986 Ford Mustang LX
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    I did it the old school way. Grabbed a prybar, and while the car was running, i tapped the crank sensor, and yes it stalled. I changed the sensor, and now there still is a minor missfire, but, i ordered a TPS and i will put the cam sensor in also. Do you know where that TPS is located? On the throttle body?
    If you wanna go fast, go ahead, it's your expensive gas you are wasting

  3. #3
    thesals's Avatar
    thesals is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 mustangFB, 69 econline Drag Van
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    ussually opposite side of the throttle cables, the shaft goes into it... on some cars you may have to adjust the sensor position.....
    just because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day

  4. #4
    vdorobantu is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    OK, I replaced the crank sensor, TPS, cam sensor, and the missfire is gone, BUT...something I have never noticed before, i believe the catalytic converter is clogged or gone. My exhaust sys is like this:1 cat per each pipe coming out of the manifolds, then there is a joiner catalytic converter, a resonator and then my pipes(no more mufflers). Now, the cat that is from the bank of cylinders #1,2,3,4 rattles when you bang on it with your fist. The joiner cat rattles too. I believe that would be a part of my hesitation or stumble upon my acceleration too. I can hear it in the exhaust pipes when u push it hard. I believe I have old broken parts in the cats that block the exhaust gasses from passing freely. Any ideas?
    If you wanna go fast, go ahead, it's your expensive gas you are wasting

  5. #5
    vdorobantu is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I know you might say its the heat shields, but no, its not the heat shields fault. They still have the good original welds.If I'm gonna punch them through I'm going to have no back pressure
    If you wanna go fast, go ahead, it's your expensive gas you are wasting

  6. #6
    thesals's Avatar
    thesals is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    well.... if you hooked up to a smog machine and gave me some readings i could tell you if the cats are any good, but thats about the only way to tell.... according to the state of california a cat is considered damaged the second exhaust passes thru it
    just because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day

  7. #7
    vdorobantu is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    What readings do you guys have in California? Over here in Canada we have readings for NOx, CO, HC. I just ran my car on the dyno for an emission test(i'm licensed), and it did alright. I think that for NOx the limit was 400 and i had like 215 or something. That was the only bad readings. The others were just fine and dandy.
    If you wanna go fast, go ahead, it's your expensive gas you are wasting

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