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Thread: Need help selecting a GOOD starter for my 68 Fairlane 390. Pinion Gear problems
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    stotzbotz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Need help selecting a GOOD starter for my 68 Fairlane 390. Pinion Gear problems

     



    Hello friends. I was hoping that you good folks could help me with selecting a decent starter for my 68 Fairlane Fastback. Just last night we spent the better part of 2 hours removing a new starter that had my entire motor locked up. I had heard the pinion gear skip a few times in he past month make a sort of skipping sound when the battery got a little weak from sitting and then a couple of weeks ago went to start it and just the solenoid was clicking. Thinking the battery had a problem did a full charge and still the same outcome. Last night we tried to turn the motor over using a breaker bar and the whole motor would not budge in either direction. I'm sure if you have ever worked on this type of car that you know that the starter location along with the header, transmission lines and lack of room anywhere around where you need to work is very aggravating to say the least. Anyway after finally getting the starter back off and shot putting it across the yard, we scooped it up to examine the problem. The teeth on the end of the pinion gear were worn and damaged but the starter was not seized up. It turned freely which makes no sense as to why my motor would not budge. My flywheel is brand new and luckily we did not see and damage to the teeth on that. This motor does have a recent rebuild with a race cam, bored .060 over so I'm assuming that I need a better starter with a better made pinion gear. I was hoping someone might have a good recommendation on a decent brand starter that will work my my situation. As always I greatly appreciate everyone taking the time to help me with my problem and am very grateful for your knowledge. Yes I now know that it was foolish of me to put a standard performance starter in high performance set up so please forgive my stupidity.

  2. #2
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I use PowerMaster gear reduction starters on everything these days-------
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  3. #3
    rspears's Avatar
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    Stotzbotz, I'd suggest that you invest in a battery tender, that keeps a tightly controlled float charge on your battery between uses. Low volts, not giving the solenoid a strong kick to fully engage before starting to spin may have contributed to your problem.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  4. #4
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Besides what Jerry said on starters, the only thing that would stand up to my 410, 0.060 over, 11.5 compression, was a Ford factory rebuilt starter. Not your local parts store starter. I tried three starters, three brands back then, before I got the actual factory rebuilt, and that starter is still on the motor today. The so called rebuilders are very sloppy in their rebuilds. Nothing to specs...

    PS: If it clicks, the solenoid is doing it's job. The only other thing is low battery charge. Or, a defective starter, like brushes bad, or bad connection, corroded connections.
    Last edited by DennyW; 10-01-2016 at 08:20 AM.

  5. #5
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    New flywheel??????? maybe the ring gear is on it backwards
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  6. #6
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    Denny-there is a good rebuilder out there a little south of you who uses original supplier parts-none of the china shit-I'll have to look up there name/contact-that's where I used to go before I discovered Powermaster was right near me about 4 miles
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  7. #7
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    Denny-there is a good rebuilder out there a little south of you who uses original supplier parts-none of the china shit-I'll have to look up there name/contact-that's where I used to go before I discovered Powermaster was right near me about 4 miles
    That would be good to know. Back when I had my shop, I used to rebuild them myself. Armature turner, and the whole nine yards... Factory type parts used. I sure miss my shop though... hahaha.

  8. #8
    HOSS429's Avatar
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    is it true that on ford starters if the battery cable bolts to the side of the starter it is considered a low torque unit but if the cable bolts onto the end of the starter it is a high torque unit ? i had always thought that ...
    iv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?

  9. #9
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    South of DeKalb-23? just s of 88
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  10. #10
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOSS429 View Post
    is it true that on ford starters if the battery cable bolts to the side of the starter it is considered a low torque unit but if the cable bolts onto the end of the starter it is a high torque unit ? i had always thought that ...
    Some makers do make them that way, but usually, that is with the solenoid mounted to the starter. A true ford starter had the solenoid mounted to the fender well, Isolated from the starter. (Heat Problems solved). Here is a standard, and a high torque starter. It's all in the winders. Unless you go to the gear reduction style.
    Attachment 66230Attachment 66231

  11. #11
    stovens's Avatar
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    I helped a friend with a high compression 327 on a 67 vette. His starter was right next to the headed and would heat up while the car was running. He'd drive 20 miles park at a store, and not be able to restart the car until the started and the engine block cooled down. We used a gear reduction model like Jerry mentioned from Summit Auto. Never has been a problem since then, also it's a hell of a lot smaller than the stock starter, i.e. more room to work with and larger clearance from hot exhaust.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  12. #12
    stovens's Avatar
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    Here is a link on summit to help with your search
    https://www.summitracing.com/search/...d-big-block-fe
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  13. #13
    stovens's Avatar
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    Jerry is this the model you were refering too?
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...model/fairlane
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  14. #14
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Please read the description before purchasing...
    Powermaster's highly efficient XS Torque starters feature extra-powerful motors that churn out up to 200 ft.-lbs. of torque. Coupled with their 4.4:1 gear-reduction ratio, that adds up to reliable cranking power for engines, up to a whopping 18.0:1 compression ratio. These starters come with a billet adapter/mounting block for durability. They'll also clear your oil pan if the OE starter did. Some models are available in a chrome plated finish. Starter dyno test results are included.

    WOW...hahaha
    Attachment 66232

    Depending on headers used, a simple heat shield works great on the ones I showed.
    Last edited by DennyW; 10-01-2016 at 11:49 AM.
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  15. #15
    34_40's Avatar
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    And also, please verify that you have the starter locating plate in between the bellhousing and the block.
    Some folks like to think this is a shim or torque plate. But really it is what sets the distance for the starter from the center of the crankshaft..

    You can run without it, but you'll either have to much or to little clearance. ALso used was special bolts, they have a larger head and a smaller diameter than the thread just below the head to allow the starter clearance to move to the correct location, indexed by the plate.
    NTFDAY and jerry clayton like this.

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