It used to have dual gas tanks but took the one out of the bed it has a little cooler in front of the radiator I expect that the transcooler and It has a towing package but that all the little bell and whistles I got
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It used to have dual gas tanks but took the one out of the bed it has a little cooler in front of the radiator I expect that the transcooler and It has a towing package but that all the little bell and whistles I got
Assuming that you're tracing the lines from the tranny & back to this "little cooler" and that your lines don't connect to threaded fittings at the bottom of the radiator to (little cooler in series with in-radiator cooler/HX), IMO you need to replace your radiator with one that has an internal tranny cooler, OR replace that little cooler you have with a HX with temp controlled fan. Your "little cooler in front of the radiator" won't allow your fluid to reach operating temp consistently.
Ok I'm pretty sure I can find one online someone where
Fuel tank in the bed?????? not a factory option-they were under left hand side of bed and had selector valve at left side of seat on floor by the drivers door.
Once again--do you have a one or a two piece drive shaft?
The aux trans cooler for the tow package wasn't awfually big and was mounted in front of radiator and plumbed into line FROM trans before it was then routed into lower rad before exit and return to trans-that way during colder weather and lighter use the rad could warm the fluid to desired temp as engine coolant is controled by engine thermostat.
( it seems quite a common false perseption on this site to cool the trans with a dedicated cooler/fan/control when in reality generally the fluid will need warming and the rad/engine coolant does that function)
Thanks to Roger and Jerry for addressing the proper routing of transmission cooler lines. Out of the transmission to an auxiliary cooler. Out of the auxiliary cooler to the bottom of the radiator. Out of the bottom of the radiator back to the transmission.... just makes common sense. I have argued with other fellows about this until I'm blue in the face.
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I'm gonna get under my truck tonight and follow these lines and see where they connect so I ain't in the dark about the lines and sorry I missed that question it was a 2 piece then I converted it into a swb its just a 1 piece now, and that's what I meant about the gas tank it was in the bed (underneath) worded wrong and yes the valve for the tank is still on the driver side floor by the seat
s o you shortened the frame?????
from 131 to 115 inches??
did you shorten your frame or graph on the rear of an 115 from another truck-I don't remember how straight the rails were for being able to just cut a section out but do seem to remember that both were the same to the back of cab area so ------
Oh no its a true shortbed i did a frame swap I feel as if cutting it would take away value to the truck
So basicly your putting a 68 cab on a different frame-------but are having issues with the hook up of basic components?? speedo?? trans cooler lines?? So was the frame your using have a 390 in it? and was the rear end from which truck?
I think I'm losing interest because you haven't told anyone exactly and completely
oh well good night
I done said I do paint and body work not alot of mechanics, my truck was originally a 1968 f100 lwb 352, I bought a 390 long block then I swapped the cab and front clip onto a 1968 shortbed frame, then I thought hey lets build the 390 engine up it would be fun, and I didn't know the speed cable was bad, my brother helped me hookup all the transmission lines and gauges, the rear end came from my lwb frame from which is a 9 inch ford rear end with 3.70 gears, all the cables and lines are hooked up I just need to replace the speed cable I do not know what else needs to be addressed because I'm lost at what your wanting to know
Don't sweat it Riley. But when you're asking questions on things like engine rpm's - then the question grows into other topics because to get accurate rpm readings involves the whole package if you will. Wheel sizes and Outside diameter / final drive ratio and of course tranmission all work together.
Sometimes we aren't very "gracefull" when asking for information as we assume the Original Poster knows what we mean when we type a reply.
We all have a new and hopefully better picture of what you're working on. Keep at it, we're looking to hear how the motor works out! If you want - flip me a pic or two and I'll put'em up for you.
mfmike1@comcast.net.
Thanks I can understand you guys prolly get a lot of BS and trolls, and I will have a few pictures uploaded tommarow I got my computer running again so I don't have to use this phone, I got 4 pics I will be uploading and I'm sorry If I didn't give enough Info hardly I honestly didnt know so much was involed and I was kina curious how the subject changed but again my apologies
No apologies needed. You'll hear it again and again 'round here. Combination / combination / combination... It's all about making the "package" work well together.
Overall, "we" are a pretty laidback group. Once in awhile it may become all to serious, when that happens, just walk away and take a break and remember "it's just car or truck.." and the only one that needs to find happiness is the one who's paying the bills.
Now hurry up with the d_ _n pictures! :eek::LOL::LOL::p:D
Well I finally built the engine and built it up I went with the 275deh, stock stall,
And its AWSOME, I LOVE IT, it will smoke the tires from a dead stop, I can punch it at 35 mph and it will chirp then all through the gears I am extremely happy I never got a chance to upload the pictures, I will soon, I had it dynoed at the shop 448.1 hp 491.4tq at the flywheel it was worth every penny.
800cfm carb
3 1/2 kn air cleaner blow through top lid
Performer rpm Intak
4 hole 2 inch spacer
Msd ignition system
D2teaa heads 65chamberd 2.10 1.75 valves with race port and polish 1040$
Probe forged pistons 4cc
.020 head gasket
Stock stroke crank
3.73 gears
C6 trans stage 3 shift kit with bm slapshifer, manual valve body
15x10s in rear 295/60
15x8s in front 295/50
Thanks for all your guys help
Ran 13.9 in quarter mile track
102 octane fuel
And really the only flaw is the brakes are a bit soft, 12.5 inches of vacuum
I also did go with the Internal radiator transmission cooler
It runs around 190-200 degrees
The engine runs aroun 170-180 as of now because its been cold
Sounds like you got the best of both worlds, which is what you wanted right?
But without pictures..... it's all a dream!?!?!?!
Thanks for closing the loop and letting us know what you decided to do with the truck. Hope you'll stick around and be a part of the action here, now that you've run the gauntlet with the engine build, and looking forward to seeing some pictorial evidence that this truck is real!! ;):D:D:D
things don't add up here-dates, sizes, specs,dyno num,bers