Thread: Oil Pressure Gauge Help???
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	01-18-2012 10:37 AM #1
 So I guess my replys to you were for nothing? Instead of ranting, check you "other" post!
 
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	01-18-2012 10:50 AM #2
 will any of these help. Usualy an op sw and guage are a real easy do if they are compatable. using a different sender than the guage is for won't give a accurate reading. if these don't help you can do a search on yahoo for oil presure switch wireing and look at imagesCharlie 
 Lovin' what I do and doing what I love 
 Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
 W8AMR
 http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
 Christian in training
 
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	01-19-2012 07:34 AM #3
 do you have the sending unit for the guage you are using???????????If no then I would get it and quit guessing. If yes call or go to them and get the directions..... maybe you should just not use the ford harness as its is not working for you???? An op gauge is as easy as adding a light to the trunk.Charlie 
 Lovin' what I do and doing what I love 
 Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
 W8AMR
 http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
 Christian in training
 
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	01-19-2012 07:53 AM #4
 5v is a computer type thing---you don't have the correct matching parts--simplest way for me to tell you to fix it is to buy a guage/sender combo from an reputable company---or go to a mech guage because you are coming up short on the PIE stuff----
 
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	01-19-2012 08:08 AM #5
 Jerry's right (as usual), if your gauge is a 1967 unit it's going to be looking for a 12V feed with the variable resistor controlling the current. Sounds like maybe you have a more modern sending unit, meant for an ECU vehicle? Where did you get the 5V information?Roger 
 Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
 
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	01-19-2012 11:53 AM #6
 He may be correct as many fords used a resistor for their gauges well into the 70's! You can use gauges from a 70's pickup and insert them straight into a 48 f-1 !
 
 If he's using a ford gauge and a ford wire and a ford sending unit, it should (in theory) WORK! Unless there is an optional gauge cluster in the center of the dash or some other wires have been "re-purposed?!?!?
 
 Maybe try a separate (new) piece of wire to run from the gauge to the sending unit and eliminate all the other stuff as a test? I never heard from him if he did test the wire by grounding at the block the connection that would go to the sending unit and what those results were.. or did I miss that?
 






 
		
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