Thread: 427 fe side oiler aluminium rods

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Originally Posted by stanger68

a few people keep telling me to run it how it is but i want it to last..
it has : mid 700's lift cam

13.5-1 compression

aluminium arias pistons

triple valve springs

ported and polished heads

roller rockers

aluminium connecting rods.

.. i just want to make a good running motor .. i maybe drive it once every two weeks for a couple hours and thats it.. i kinda in a rut on what i should do.. being new to the whole motor thing i am just looking for some advice..

well i have used parts like this in many builds all but the rods but like i said that would not make me pull them out it has alot to do with who made the rods .you need to keep ahead of the parts from going away . your engine as it sits would be a engine getting pulled evey year to look at parts and check stuff before it falls part so miles on the street can be abit hard on some parts at get oil from oil splash . low speed low oil splash can hurt some roller lifters.. .so solid rollers i like Hippo and would go to aPSI or ISKy gold tool room valve spring more of a endurance dual spring . OR put it in run it look at the springs every year and pull the intake off every other year and check the lifters pull the rods out every 5000 miles throw them out and buy new .10.000 miles maybe a life time ?if not you realy need to rethink your engine. as engine like this only seen runs under a 120 race miles .then gets look over . but your not running it like a race engine the pistons crank .cam. valves .should hold up good . lifters to if hippo . rocker could some are better then others .you have alist of the parts in the build would help i know who,s lifters and parts hold up the best for stuff like this i built 12to1 up to 14.8 , 750 lift roller street engines for over 20 years for street use ONLY

i just talked to the guy and the connecting rods are howards .. the cam specs are 310 lobe center, 785 lift and 312 duration.. thanks for your input pat i appreciate it.. i think i might just get some race gas and put this thing in how it is.. i never really beat the crap out of it, yes i will jump on it and play but i wont be racing it.. for how much i drive it i wouldnt mind it being crazy.. he said the dyno test was 797 horsepower on race gas.. i know he spent a pretty penny on it and i got it for 2k.

Originally Posted by stanger68

i just talked to the guy and the connecting rods are howards .. the cam specs are 310 lobe center, 785 lift and 312 duration.. thanks for your input pat i appreciate it.. i think i might just get some race gas and put this thing in how it is.. i never really beat the crap out of it, yes i will jump on it and play but i wont be racing it.. for how much i drive it i wouldnt mind it being crazy.. he said the dyno test was 797 horsepower on race gas.. i know he spent a pretty penny on it and i got it for 2k.

well Howards rods in there add say they can take street miles and it has to do with heat but they should take 10.000 miles EZ i know on my titanium crower rods$$$$ they would not tell me that for miles i have some engines like that its fun to go for a short blast .then put it back before the good guys want to haul you a way

We used to run Howard's rods and cams back in the 70s in our fuel cars--they used something like 2014 cross rolled forgings( what ever that meant) and was a lot stronger than the more common 60xx that the other companies used--I remember seeing some specs about the strength changing with temps above 400* but really you shouldn't have oil temps that high anyway---

I have had a set of Childs and Alberts setting a few years in my bbc race engine that split down the threaded part of the rod bolt hole