I posted a comment a few hours ago that doesnt show. I messed up when I said C3 for the rods. piston heads inside say C8...side of rods say C7T(truck?) and end caps on rod(part that slips over studs around crank) are C8. Block is J10, heads are J12 and J2, all with a symbol before the J that looks like one of those "yellow ribbon" magnets that people put on their cars, and DIY. only markings on block are 253 with mold number, J10, large A1 also by oil filter, and thats all I can find unless somethings painted over.crank has half-moon cut-out for key on front end. no other markings that I can find except "17...18...44....X...and scratched C"....all in seperate places on the crank. I measured the stroke with a strait-edge flat on the cylendar block and a tape rule and got 3.50 So I am guessing heads are original with block, all basicly C8 and J within 10 days and originally a 360.
from what I have read of wall thicknesses, I will get it bored .030, and maybe look for a 390 crank and new rods...do oil mod, and get good headers and duel exhaust and maybe open intake ports (I think I read that intakes wearnt as much of a problem as exhaust flow).
I'm just doing this for fun. I'm not going to race or anything...probly just sit at the local Big Boy on car night and screw around about town. trying to build a hotrod/ratrod. starting frame tomorrow. have ford 9-inch rear(N case), this engine, and have a line on a 4-speed manual trans from a 62 galaxy 390fe. any suggestions for ideas are welcomed.


thanks again for all the help.

Sam