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Thread: Lubrication problem
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    swcash is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Lubrication problem

     



    I have a 70 F250 with a fe390 engine. Suddenly I get a rough idle followed a couple of days later by a distinct valve tick. My oil pressure gauge is running at the low end at idle. I pulled the valve covers and have no oil flow from the rocker arm holes. I started the engine and put a hose to my ear from each valve and about half of them are noisy to some extent. most of them can't be heard except by the hose method. What could have suddenly caused this lack of oil flow? The engine has less than 100,000 miles and is really clean inside. I know the prior owner and he changed oil like clockwork. I did have occasion to let the engine idle for long periods to charge the camper battery. Could this have caused irregular wear on the crank or cam bearings? I'm not familiar with this type of engine and have had no success in learning how the oil flows throughout the fe engine. Non of my manuals including the factory manual gives a decent description of the lubrication system. Any help is appreciated.

  2. #2
    erik erikson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swcash
    I have a 70 F250 with a fe390 engine. Suddenly I get a rough idle followed a couple of days later by a distinct valve tick. My oil pressure gauge is running at the low end at idle. I pulled the valve covers and have no oil flow from the rocker arm holes. I started the engine and put a hose to my ear from each valve and about half of them are noisy to some extent. most of them can't be heard except by the hose method. What could have suddenly caused this lack of oil flow? The engine has less than 100,000 miles and is really clean inside. I know the prior owner and he changed oil like clockwork. I did have occasion to let the engine idle for long periods to charge the camper battery. Could this have caused irregular wear on the crank or cam bearings? I'm not familiar with this type of engine and have had no success in learning how the oil flows throughout the fe engine. Non of my manuals including the factory manual gives a decent description of the lubrication system. Any help is appreciated.
    Welcome to the forum.
    Denny will have a diagram.
    I'm sure he will be along very soon.

  3. #3
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I'd drop the pan, clean it out, and replace the oil pump and screen. Oil pumps do wear out, and your motor is 37 years old. That would be a good starting point, then you will know if it is something internal like excess clearances, etc.

    I've always had a policy of pulling the pan and putting in a new oil pump anytime I use an engine from a wreck or junk yard. The one time I didn't do it was when it bit me.

    Oh, and welcome to the forum.

    Don

  4. #4
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    Here is a cutaway of the engine. I've seen better drawings, but this will give you some idea.
    Don
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  5. #5
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sounds like the engine has done very good!!!! A 37 year old engine with less then 100,000 miles that is still in running condition is great!!! Could be a variety of things, at that age with those miles it obviously spent a lot of time just sitting. The older oils had a nasty habit of building up sludge throughout the engine and in your case it sounds like some of it has made it into the oil passages that feed the rocker arms. A clean out and new pump like Don suggested may remedy the problem. Or perhaps the lack of lube to the rockers has already done the damage and it's also going to require some repairs on the rocker arms... Lots of old parts in there that have been sitting for awhile, perhaps it's just time to freshen everything up?
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  6. #6
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Great schematic Denny!!!! My guess is the lines from the cam bearing to the rocker shafts are clogged..... What's yours?
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  7. #7
    swcash is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    You guys have beeen a great help so far. Pulling the pan seems inevitable, but I think maybe I should try to get a REAL oil pressure reading with a REAL gauge first. This way I'll have some sort of base to work from. Do you think all the idleing caused this problem? I know 100,000 seems like a lot of miles but another friend had 250000 on his fe 390 and it was still running strong. Like I said before the oil was changed religiously and inside the valve covers is spic and span.
    The drawing is exactly what I was looking for. I now can see where the oil comes from. I could pull the one bolt on each rocker shaft and blow compressed air down through. I know I still need to pull the pan no matter what. When I pull the pan and say the screen is clean, then what should I check next? Check pump clearances? Use Plasticgauge on the bearings? Just my luck, it hasn't rained in 6 months here in California, today it has to rain.
    I really appreciate all the input, as I was stalled out on this problem, being a chevy guy all my life not familiar with this engine. This forum rocks.

  8. #8
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    I'd just go ahead and replace the pump, they are cheap enough. Change the oil, maybe throw in a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and see what happens. You either have something that can be fixed easily or a problem. By doing the new pump routine you will start eliminating the easy stuff first.

    Don

  9. #9
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    Two things common on those engines

    The oil passage to the rockers plug up in that short horizonal area where it goes sideways toward the bolt in the hollow rocker stand

    Those engines had the rubber umbrella valve stem seals and they when they got old and brittle they would crumble up in zillions of rubber bits and eventually get down into the pan and plug the pickup screen---there generally is evidence along the edge of the head under the valve cover and/or you can see that the seals aren't on all the valvestems
    These were one of the first engines to get fit with PC type seals on the engine

    Jerry

  10. #10
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    I dont have a fix Denny and the pro's here will help with that but thru some research i found some oil mods that this guy says helps a 390 or fe by means . Just searching because i too have a 390 that will need refurbished . This guy shows some good mods to create the best oil flow . The link to his oil mods is on the left once open click on pages they will enlarge .. Once enlarged you can save them and print out later .

    http://home.comcast.net/~gtscode/gtscode/
    Last edited by bluestang67; 12-01-2007 at 01:23 AM.

  11. #11
    bluestang67's Avatar
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    Denny looks like some vintage paper also . I figured you or someone may be able to add to it with more tech also.

  12. #12
    swcash is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Wow, I'm getting quite an education on this fe lube system. I'm going to do my best to get to "wrenchin" today, I'll let you guys know what I come up with. Again, thank you all for all of the technical information.

  13. #13
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    Denny did a search for paul found no site but i did find him at a ford forum so im close

  14. #14
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    I think Denny and the guys nailed it. The bypass spring in the oil pump can get weak over time. That and the screen on the pickup clogged. Also on the rocker shafts....they too can clog sometimes. But I've only seen that in real heavy sludge cases. I'd be RR'ing the pickup and pump as advised.

  15. #15
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    My Ford 400 lost it's oil pressure yrs ago. It turned out to be a lifter issue.
    Some Fords feed the lifters first and will lose pressure from that point.
    Ron

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