It' hard for me to believe the amount of oil could cause this. I agree
to valve train geometry or coil bind. Raced em too many years and never
saw any problems from oiling.
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It' hard for me to believe the amount of oil could cause this. I agree
to valve train geometry or coil bind. Raced em too many years and never
saw any problems from oiling.
the only problems i've ever seen on these motors with oiling would be under oiling which causes all sorts of problems.... but never have i heard of over oiling the valve train causing a lock up...... you would have to have a ridiculous amount of oil pressure to do that
FFR428 she runs approx 80psi of oil pressure when she is good and warm. I belive she has a 9-10 quart pan.
-CJP
When she is cold she pegs the oil guage at around 95-100psi of oil pressure, :whacked: when she is good and warm it settles down to 80psi. :toocool: this is before they installed the restrictors. still no word on what that did yet...
Im no engine expert but 100psi seems excessive. :LOL:
Thanks again guys,
-CJP
10 psi per 1000 rpms is the rule of thumb. Pretty common for the sideoiler to have pressure in the 75 psi cold to 65 warm at all speeds if the high pressure pump was used. Cold the 390 in my Cougar is pegged at 80 and 50-60 warm with 20w-50. I've heard some sideoilers had up to 130 psi cold! I'd rather have a little more pressure than the lack of......
just be sure to use HP oil filter! Don't they have bypass built in the
rear of the block?
Yep both top and sideoilers have the relief valve in the rear of the block. Most are set to bleed off pressure at 55-65 psi with the pump recalibrated to bypass at 115-125 psi to prevent cold start issues like blowing up filters. LOL. You can also just block the bypass off completly since the pump can be calibrated for the pressure you want. A common misteak some builders make is installing the spring and plug backwards. This can lead to low oil pressure. My Genesis 427 block has the boss cast on the back like the oem sideoilers with a allen plug in the hole. The hole is blind and there is no relief valve. I got a chuckle out of that and thought why bother to drill, tap and plug a blind hole just to appear like the oem block. When it's installed you can't see it anyway. LOL.
**UPDATE**
Thanks everyone SO MUCH for your advice and answers to "Maggie"s issues! :3dSMILE:
Turns out that indeed too much oil was making it to the rockers making them lock up/bend pushrods.
When she was rebuilt, the speed shop insisted on using a high volume oil pump as they were CONVINCED that she was not making enough oil pressure. Well the guys forgot/didn't know :whacked: about the relief valves in the back of the block which caused the pressure to rise.
They *cough* after calling in a expert in FE Fords *cough* addressed the relief valves and installed oil restictors.
Unfortunately, we believe they tunned a little of the beast out of her in the pursuit of making her street drivable. The dyno reads approx. 28 bhp down and 35 lb/ft down. Their dyno was updated and, due to the update, they say all their numbers are running 15-20 hp less compared to the previous dynos. sniff, sniff you smell something? :LOL:
Again I want to thank everyone for their help/support in this matter (you guys are great!) Now keeping her under 4,500 rpm and on good ol' fassion dyno juice oil is going to be hard! Can't wait till she loosens up so we can open her UP!!! :LOL:
-CJP
BTW, ill be sure to post some pics...
Some pics
Thanks for lookin!
-CJP
Thanks again guys!
-CJP
Very nice! I really like the green. Is that a Contemporary?
Quote:
Originally Posted by FFR428
Round tube frame, jag rear end, correct body shape and rear quarter "droop", left "jogged" transmission tunnel, 3 master cylinders on the firewall, yup, it's a Contemporary :cool:
Bill S.
yep she is a Contemporary
Father says thanks for all the nice comments. :toocool:
-CJP