Thread: 391/361 steel crankshaft info

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Good points Denny. I sent them a email and asked what they are packed in. My UPS guy already hates coming to my house. I guess I'm being over cautious with this build. I think I'll proceed as planned. Thanks for your input!

I hear what your saying about the 40 year old parts, that thought has crossed my mind. Is anyone running the old LeMans rods? They can be scarey too! I'm cautious about these $800 steel cranks from China, how good can they be? There is also the theory about the seasoned parts. As they go through their life cycle of heating and cooling they become molecularly stablized with age and possible become stronger. I know that this can apply to engine blocks but does it apply to rotating assemblies? Maybe if I wouldn't consider running 40+ year old LeMans rods I shouldn't run an old steel crank as well. Oh boy, I guess it all depends on if I feel like rolling the dice. I think I have raised more questions than answers.

You guys are hitting some good points here. I'd run a 30 yr Ford crank
cast or steel before I'd run a Chinese POS for sure. Be careful not to get
the reciprocating weight to heavy with a 2 bolt block, Lemans rods are
heavy. I have raced a 427 with cast cranks for over 20 yrs and never
had a crankshaft problem. My 390 I ran 7000 and the 427 a little more.
I blew one up at 8500 (stupid) ,broke a rod, ruined a block, but did not
hurt the crank. I did see one in a Stock race car (Calverts 428 CJ) with a
heavy bottom end pull the block webbing and destroy everything. Very rare.
Of course with the longer crank throw on a non race motor you don't
want to turn the RPM's of the shorter arm. Good Luck with the parts. These
are definetly tough old motors.
Ron