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Thread: please help new guy...
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    triple d is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    please help new guy...

     



    I have an auto swap meet coming up soon. I need to know what block and crank to look for. Want to run 429/460 street truck project. will also be running what I brung at the 1/4 mile. Is there benefit in swapping cranks 429 into 460 block, or vise versa? I am running aluminum heads, dual quad tunnel? and spray. Not sure of all the exact details, but thats the direction i'm headed. My 390 and 400 are going in my stock rigs to refresh them. Thanks for all help, Dan

  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The only advantage of using the 429 shaft is that the engine will RPM a bit quicker, but the trade off is giving away a bunch of torque that the longer 460 shaft will develop... If you want even more power, the go with a stroker kit and you can go as far as 557 cubes out of a 460 block. Factory 460 blocks are all about equal, depending on how big a shot you're planning to run out of the bottle you might want to consider going to the 4 bolt splayed main caps... We've ran BBF's drag racing for years, and IMO the only thing better then a lot of cubic inches is even more cubic inches!!!!
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  3. #3
    vara4's Avatar
    vara4 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Cubic Inches, Cubic Inches, Cubic Inches.
    There is no substitution for Cubic Inches.
    Cubic Inches = HP and Torque.
    Kurt

  4. #4
    hotrodstude is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    no a 460 is a stroked 429

  5. #5
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    No-----the 429/460 was just FoMoCo doing there ford/merc thing of DIFFERENT stroke engines--they both were built at the same time

  6. #6
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    You say you want to use a tunnel ram. I suppose everyone should experience a tunnel ram at some point in their life, if for no other reason, just to find out what a pain in the a$$ they can be. Whatever motor you build will be faster, quicker and easier to tune with a properly sized single 4-bbl mounted on a high-rise intake manifold. Use a dual-plane, high-rise intake such as a Edelbrock RPM or Weiand Stealth for a power band of idle to 6500. For a power band of 4000-8000, use a single-plane, high-rise intake such as a Edelbrock Victor Jr.

    The first thing you need to do is to buy one or more books that will aid you in your choice of parts and procedures in building the motor. Also, get up off the dime and spend some money on phone calls. Ring up all the N2O system manufacturers and chat their heads off about what will be needed to run their systems. Take copious notes while talking to these guys or record the conversations. If not, you won't remember what they said a few days later.

    http://www.zex.com/TechSupport/Default.aspx
    http://www.nitrousexpress.com/contact.php
    http://www.holley.com/TechService/FAQ.asp
    http://www.nitrousdirect.com/contact.html

    Big Block Fords generate a tremendous amount of torque, torque that breaks stuff such as torque converters, transmissions, driveshafts, ring and pinion gears, axles, wheels, etc. So, the entire vehicle must be bullet-proofed if you don't plan to spend the rest of your life on your back under the vehicle. Start at the rear of the vehicle and work your way forward. Get the gears, axles, wheels, tires and suspension all set up for the tremendous hit of torque that they will take. Feeling a high-hp vehicle launch hard and go straight is quite an exciting experience. Burning the tires off and not launching or hooking up and leaving the carrier on the starting line is not such a pleasant experience. Hint: Plan to spend as much money from the flexplate rearward as you do from the flexplate forward.

    Click on "26 used" in the middle of the page here and buy this book for cheap. I buy used books all the time off amazon and they work just fine.....
    http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Ford-V...8532848&sr=1-1
    Last edited by techinspector1; 07-07-2010 at 01:11 PM.
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  7. #7
    vara4's Avatar
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    Wow we are hitting some of the old post again I see.
    Kurt

  8. #8
    triple d is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    thanks fellas

     



    I have been tied up working to get the dollars up to get my truck stuff out of the machine shop. Building my 400 for the 78 ford 4x4. It will be a stump puller, and very reliable. I have gone .030 over bore, crank re-ground, new flex plate, high performance harmonic balancer, balanced the rotating assembly, flat top 9.5:1 hyperutectic pistons, moly rings, arp rod, main, and head bolts, Stainless valves, new guides, seats, high perf springs and some porting work, comp extreme energy cam and lifters, scorpion roller rockers, quiet gear drive, an edelbrock performer, and holley street dominator carb , sh!#, there goes 3k. Oh well, what can I say. I like to do it right. Thanks again for your input, I'll keep ya posted on the built and start up.

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