Thread: What oil is right for a 429?

Tweet

Denny has your backdoor on this one. Heat is crucial also. Don't forget to heat sink the rings. Thanks for the help on the charts Denny. One day I'm gonna master this XP setup.

We didn't do the break in on this, (by the way although we haven't had to add any my uncle I think is going with straight 40 racing, his car so I said "fine").

I had a mechanic once that I talked to about break in, the only thing he said was, "drive it like you intend to from the beginning". he believed that if you broke them in easy then when it came time that you wanted your foot in it they would not have been correctly broke in for that type of driving.

What is your thoughts on that?

Red

are there some soft numbers of how many hours/miles?

What are thoughts on the ring seating products that promise very quick ring seat intervals?

Originally Posted by falcon8r

What are thoughts on the ring seating products that promise very quick ring seat intervals?

I have used some of the "paste" in the cylinders before that is supose to fill all the low spots and promote better ring sealing.
I have noticed very little difference in leak down or hp/TQ numbers..

With todays material being processed for the rings, The backloading takes care of itself if you are willing to apply the "vacuum" process Denny suggested. Most importantly for todays rings, Heat sink them. This simply requires running throught the process of break in and parking the darn thing for at least 1 half hour. You're done.

Originally Posted by nitrowarrior

With todays material being processed for the rings, The backloading takes care of itself if you are willing to apply the "vacuum" process Denny suggested. Most importantly for todays rings, Heat sink them. This simply requires running throught the process of break in and parking the darn thing for at least 1 half hour. You're done.

Rings today are a much harder than they where 10 years ago.
I will take much more than a "heat cycles " to break in un-less they are the $30 cast rings.

Erik Always brings to the forefront An idea or technological quizzery that I dearly miss. Thanks Erik, I was wondering where you were Good point bud, let's find out whether these are coated or ductile sets of rings as for sake of discussion. Also, who set the clearances and double checked the performance under run conditions. One thing that is a constant; HEAT. It has to build the tempermant for life of the engine during it's cycle for life. chrome, "moly's", cast which ever you have set the system up for will need the heat to set. Thanks for bringing the reminder of the construction of the rings forth and what material they could be laced with, they are much better than they ever have been for the longevity purpose of our builds. I appreciate your endevors with your posts Erik.

Originally Posted by nitrowarrior

Erik Always brings to the forefront An idea or technological quizzery that I dearly miss. Thanks Erik, I was wondering where you were Good point bud, let's find out whether these are coated or ductile sets of rings as for sake of discussion. Also, who set the clearances and double checked the performance under run conditions. One thing that is a constant; HEAT. It has to build the tempermant for life of the engine during it's cycle for life. chrome, "moly's", cast which ever you have set the system up for will need the heat to set. Thanks for bringing the reminder of the construction of the rings forth and what material they could be laced with, they are much better than they ever have been for the longevity purpose of our builds. I appreciate your endevors with your posts Erik.

About twenty years ago if one of the dirt burner cars hit 250 F to many times you would loose your ring seal.
First it would only be a 10 lbs. differance between each hole then it would creep up to 15 lbs. between each hole.
With today's better ring material you can hit 250 F and not loose ring seal or blow head gaskets.
I would rather keep the temp. at 200 F for max. HP/TQ and longevity but this is not always possible.