Thread: design my engine - HELP

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So far for my 71 mustang mach1 I have a D1VE block, D0VE heads and Eagle 514 Stroker kit. I will drag race it occassionally and am going with a C4 transmission. But, I want to drive it around as almost a daily driver.

I am looking for recommendations on the rest of the engine. How would you build it? What stall would you use?

I appreciate any thoughts.

David

With flat top pistons, your engine will have about 13:1 compression ratio; keep this in mind for your "daily driver." If you must run pump gas, then consider the 24cc dish piston which will get you down to about 10.6:1.

Paul

What Paul said, plus when it comes to your convertor stall, that will all depend on what cam your using. I dont think your planning on turning the engine at to high an RPM for durability purposes. Best thing to do is, when you have all the componites of the engine ( pistons, crank, rods, heads, (ported im assuming) intake, carb, header size etc. Email all your parts spec to a cam grinder (Crane, Comp Cam etc.) and they will tell you what cam they thing you should be running to get the most power out of your engine. Once you have done that, then contact a torque convertor builder to see what they recomend. Usually they like to dyno the engine to mach the convertor for the amout of stall and slippage. But if you stay within the power band of the cam you should be ok.
If your going to run a C4 trans, then make sure you buy one that has been built strong to take the power the BBF will be putting out. And while racing the C4, add a catch can because they usually like to blurp out a little oil after a hard run.
Im running a 4600 stall in mine, but the power doesnt turn on untill 4800 RPM. When running a higher stall like that, its not hard to break the tires loose off the starting line if the track is not very tacky. Im running a 2 step and trans break in mine, so i can turn the RPM down before launching the car.

I have a 517 BBF that sees both street and strip duty.
Your build depends highly on budget. If budget alows get a hydraulic roller cam, but that is pricey. If you don't mind adjusting lash a solid roller is a bit cheaper, and cheaper yet is a solid flat, but for a street stripper I would go either hyd-roller or hyd-flat tappet.
I would go for something with 230><245 duration. 110-112 lobe centers. (110 will give you a nice lope ) Higher lift hyd-flat cams can be difficult to get in the block. My Erson cam with .545 lift was a pain to get in the block.

For dual purpose cars, it is hard to beat Edelbrocks air-gap intake manifolds.
But with the big blocks, making torque isn't an issue (its hard not to make one of these motor not torquey) so you could go with a Victor single plane.

For carbs, it is up to personal preference. I am running a modified 750 vac secondaries on my car, most would scream that this carb is too small, but I love the super crisp throttle response it gives me! I have modified it with a Pro-Form main body, quick change secondary spring kit, and a secondary metering block. For max power I should go with probably a 950-1000 CFM unit.

Hope this helps a bit,

Joe