Thread: ***Some advice on getting my flathead running***

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If you're talking about the clear glass "bowl" at the fuel pump, that's the filter. Should be a sintered bronze element in there that's removable for cleaning. This if from the day before making everything disposable.

Originally Posted by Fordfanatic415

From what I hear... the aluminum lines are cheaper but the fittings are more expensive whereas braided lines are alot more expensive but the fittings are cheaper. In general braided lines are more $, but if you have alot of drastic bends and tight spots to run them through then I'd get the braided lines. Me personally I'm getting the aluminum lines that bob suggested because I'm on a budget and it will save me $ and will work fine untill I'm ready to upgrade.

Just as a suggestion - until you make a plan as where you want to end up with this car, just make up the fuel lines 'in kind' so you can at least start and drive it around. That is, use some good old steel tubing and fittings that you can buy very inexpensively from any auto parts store. My recollection is that early Fords are only 1/4" and a 6 foot length of standard brake tubing is only 3-4 bucks(if they are 5/16, a buck or so more). Aluminum is fine for temp use, but don't even think of SS braided lines until you are in the final build as you can drop several hundred dollars very quickly - fittings are NOT cheap( 90° FLARE UNION, AN4 EA $6.95 plus 2 tube sleeves and 2 tube nuts for a $1 ea end - info from SPEEDWAY) and often you need 2 or more fittings for a single connection and the line is in the range of 7 to 10 bucks a foot. You may need a 37degree flaring tool as well - very expensive - my RIGID set was over $200 I've attached a photo of what you can get into as far as braided hose.

Ireland's Child, I'm still here, just waiting for a column drop which is holding up several steps related to the steering. You have talked me out of braided tubing since I guess I can try bending steel tubing and waste several and still come out cheaper. Your setup is beautiful! I also note that you opted for a tall e-brake handle similar to what I have which makes the A look a little more like a resto-rod. I think I paid less than $20for a tubing bender and I have previous experience with a 37 degree flaring tool that I am not anxious to repeat.

Don Shillady

Thanks everone!

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

Ireland's Child, I'm still here, just waiting for a column drop which is holding up several steps related to the steering. You have talked me out of braided tubing since I guess I can try bending steel tubing and waste several and still come out cheaper. Your setup is beautiful! I also note that you opted for a tall e-brake handle similar to what I have which makes the A look a little more like a resto-rod. I think I paid less than $20for a tubing bender and I have previous experience with a 37 degree flaring tool that I am not anxious to repeat.

Don Shillady

Don,
Amazing how one minor part slows down everything, isn't it?

You can get some SS tubing from Summit as well but it is a b**** to bend. The braided stuff on mine just kinda grew....and grew....and grew. Only if you have a real good flare will 37deg flares work - I started with a <$50 tool from Speedway then wasted some SS tubing for my brake system trying to make it work then went and bought the RIGID setup. Tubing benders are reasonable - but the inexpensive ones usually don't work too well w/SS. The photo shows what I have - it has done my car's brakes as well as a buddys '32 coupe.
Braided line is tough as well as very time consuming (and bloody fingers) to do though there is a new tool to help that I don't have. Another thing most folks don't understand is the very long bend radius for -6 and up braided lines.

The long e-brake handle 'just looks right' but the original 23" shifter handle was just wrong for the roadster so I bought a replacement 16". The 23" handle was correct for the sedan that I started with though - but that's another story !!

Looks like I need some pictures without the dust on everything

Hey everyone! So I've been searching high and low for the #rs on my motor, but the only ones that I can seem to find are on the heads.
On the passenger side the #rs read:
F
D 2 2
EAC

On the driver's side the #rs read:
F
C18 2
EAC

***With these numbers, i was just wondering if anybody could tell the exact specs of the motor (year, horsepower, and the correct carburator to use). Is the '49-'53 holley 94 the right carb to use??? If so where can I get one and for how much? ANother quick question...where can I get a chrysler coil @ & for how much??? Thanks!

EAC casting is a '52-'53 Merc head. 255 cubes.