I understand everything you are saying. All that I am saying is that it is going into closed loop, but before it does the ignition advance is not what it should be and I found that strange. But it does make sense that as most of the system is "off line" that the pre-sets are rather conservative to prevent possible damage. Driving it with the scan tool on the O2 sensors are not active initially and all the read outs are pretty stable. As soon as the O2 sensors come alive all the readouts change and move around as they should.

I do have a new problem though. When I put in the new injectors I noticed that the vacuum tube to the fuel pressure regulator had a tear in the upper connector. I assumed that I had damaged it when I removed it but if it was torn before I started the fuel pressure regulator was not getting a vacuum signal which is probably adequate explanation for poor low speed economy. When I drove it I was taking care of a couple of chores. Made a stop and when I came back about a half hour later the engine was reluctant to light. it cranked for about ten seconds and finally reluctantly picked up all cylinders and then ran fine. Made a second stop same scenario. IF the vacuum line was damaged before I started working on it that would mean that the fuel pressure regulator has not been off of its seat for a very long time. I seem to recall that the fuel rail is supposed to maintain pressure, so what is the possibility of the regulator now being reluctant to close, thus leaving the fuel rail with no pressure when stoped. It would take the fuel pump some time to pressurize the rail again with an unseated pressure regulator possibly explaining the slow start.

If I pull the regulator off and connect it to a hand vacuum pump are the mechanics visible enough to see if they are moving properly?