Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Help to get off the line please!
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 16 to 23 of 23
  1. #16
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    TX
    Car Year, Make, Model: hotrod
    Posts
    1,830

    A sensor would cost 50 dollars new and the bung 5 dollars, digital volt meter 20 dollars. If your really on a budget you could get a sensor from the junk yard for free.
    Also are you using a adjustable vacuum canister?
    Friends dont let friends drive fords!

  2. #17
    gearGrinder's Avatar
    gearGrinder is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1959 Chevy 1/2 Ton Pickup
    Posts
    55

    Quote Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver View Post
    Also are you using a adjustable vacuum canister?
    Yes and since installing it I cannot get the car to NOT ping under various conditions, even with the vac hose disconnected, must be those new spark plugs
    Burning gunpowder and gasoline daily for over 20 years and counting!

  3. #18
    Mikej's Avatar
    Mikej is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Portsmouth
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1935 Chevy Master Sport Coupe
    Posts
    98

    What octane gas are you using? And where does the ping occur? Light acceleration from cruise?
    If it's not broke, fix it anyway.

  4. #19
    gearGrinder's Avatar
    gearGrinder is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1959 Chevy 1/2 Ton Pickup
    Posts
    55

    Quote Originally Posted by Mikej View Post
    What octane gas are you using? And where does the ping occur? Light acceleration from cruise?
    I am running 87 octane, which is what I prefer for obvious reasons, I will try the next tank (in about 2 days if I keep test driving 5x per day) at 93 octane and see what happens with the current setup.

    By retarding my initial timing to 10 degrees I seem to have eliminated partial and full throttle pinging under load (going up hill strong) but when accelerating strong out of a turn it will ping for sure, I am not sure if it still pings during light acceleration from cruise anymore, it did before I retarded it to 10.

    The pinging issue started after I installed new spark plugs and an adjustable vac adv can on my dizzy (left stock weights and springs in there for now)

    Started a new thread on this subject too...
    Burning gunpowder and gasoline daily for over 20 years and counting!

  5. #20
    skyeking is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    sydney
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1974 XJ Daimler ZZ4/th700
    Posts
    18

    Smile gear grinder

     



    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson View Post
    Transition circuit is a step or two fat... As Glen said, most are fat out of the box... If you don't have the Edelbrock calibration kit, you'll need to get it then follow the chart in the book (or on the Edelbrock site) to get the carb dialed in... Once you get the calibration right on the carb, you may want to reconnect the vacuum to the ported side of the carb, then work on the vacuum canister to slow down the advance rate a bit.....
    The cam you have was used by G.M for 20 years in 305s and 350 and is a
    easy to live with but has been best described as a "LAZY" Cam.
    My Engineer recalibrated it and set it up with another 4* advance on
    top of the Comp cams grind and that made a difference down low but cost
    a bit on top as expected..Later I swapped it for a 222/222..450/460 GM
    cam which is a mild cam & increased the Rear wheel torque by 155 lbs max.
    My 355" had 195 TFS heads and 10.1/1 comp with 1.5/8 headers into a
    2.5" system after collectors. Holley 600 with 6lbs fuel pressure+ 38* Total
    advance. [10* static.] All the best with the project

  6. #21
    gearGrinder's Avatar
    gearGrinder is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1959 Chevy 1/2 Ton Pickup
    Posts
    55

    Quote Originally Posted by skyeking View Post
    The cam you have was used by G.M for 20 years in 305s and 350 and is a easy to live with but has been best described as a "LAZY" Cam.
    Interesting, I would love to know the notorious history of this "lazy" grind...

    My Engineer recalibrated it and set it up with another 4* advance on top of the Comp cams grind and that made a difference down low but cost a bit on top as expected
    This is the beauty of this hobby, unlimited options and opportunities to play!

    Thanks for your repy
    Burning gunpowder and gasoline daily for over 20 years and counting!

  7. #22
    Ford Guy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Davenport
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1952 Ford F-1 Pickup
    Posts
    138

    Summit has sensor, bung and guage for less than $100. I just ordered them for my flathead...just wondering which exhaust to put bung in or can I do both with another bung and sensor?

  8. #23
    gearGrinder's Avatar
    gearGrinder is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1959 Chevy 1/2 Ton Pickup
    Posts
    55

    Quote Originally Posted by Ford Guy View Post
    Summit has sensor, bung and guage for less than $100. I just ordered them for my flathead...just wondering which exhaust to put bung in or can I do both with another bung and sensor?
    The bung is usually installed close to the collector, mark the spot where the sensor will fit and be able to be installed and removed in-car (that's kinda important) and drill/weld the bung in.

    There are other gauges out there that are dual and run 2 sensors, one on each side, but are more around $300 price range for some reason.

    Honestly, once it is set up I wouldn't think you need it, just one more gauge to glutter up the dash and distract you, but it is nice to have
    Burning gunpowder and gasoline daily for over 20 years and counting!

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink