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Thread: SBC 283.. 66 Impala
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    moter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The wire you have in your hand is for the high blower relay for the a/c heater system.has nothing to do with the ignition. You have either not set the points to the correct gap or did not install them correct. Connect the dwell meter to the negative side of coil, crank the engine. Make sure you have the meter set to 8 cylinder. You should read, while cranking, 30 degrees dwell if not reset them. Also make sure the condensor is tight.

  2. #17
    falconvan's Avatar
    falconvan is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Plymouth, 48,54 Heap
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    The wire going from your ignition switch inside the car to the + side of the coil is a resistor wire. So take that wire off for noww. Take a length of 12 gauge wire and run it from the positive post of the battery to one side of a toggle switch. From the other side of the toggle switch run another wire to one side of a ballast resistor. from the other side of the ballast resistor run another wire back to the + side of the coil. That should be the only wire on the + side of the coil. Basically what you're doing is bypassing the factory ignition circuit and setting up a test circuit. The toggle switch will be your on/off for the ignition. With the toggle switch on, try and start the engine. If it starts, drive it that way for a few days and see if it runs normal. If it does, your problem is somewhere in the factory ignition circuit. If it doesn't, then you've got problems elsewhere.

  3. #18
    CHEVYLV3R is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 Impala / 68 C-10 PU
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    Motor please look closer as the wires in Hand are to the + of coil. My last post I said the wires I taped off are to the blower relay that is missing in the pic.

    Falconvan... I understand u better and will go pick up the ballast and switch today and have a go. Ty for your help.
    Last edited by CHEVYLV3R; 08-27-2008 at 09:44 AM.

  4. #19
    CHEVYLV3R is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 Impala / 68 C-10 PU
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    Ok so I did exactly as u said and the resistor had a lil bit of smoke comin from it and I disconnected.. Is this normal? it wasnt burning or glowing it was just a lil bit. Not sure if this was normal so i decided to ask instead of cause more damage... I can show u pics of how i hooked it up if needed..

  5. #20
    CHEVYLV3R is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 Impala / 68 C-10 PU
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    I see what might be a problem the little strap that holds the cam lube felt is hitting the little wire.. if u see anything let me know. On pic 3 BTW
    Attached Images

  6. #21
    CHEVYLV3R is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 Impala / 68 C-10 PU
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    Anyone who is listening.. O.O I put the old points back in and boom it fired right up.. Now i have to dial it in.. Which is my next problem.. The carb default settings damn I have to many defaults but hey ya know I am tryin to learn not sit here and hand it over to a Shop and pay 500 or more.. If anyone can assist me in this let me know ty I have a dwell meter and timing light let me know the dwell setting and the carb defaults so i can adjust from there please... BTW HEI will go in this soon LOL

  7. #22
    willowbilly3 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Good friend, maybe, but don't let him touch your car anymore for starters.
    Sounds like the choke is stuck shut or sticking. Use a clothspin to clamp it open to temporarily get it running, except now your "friend" probably has the timing all out of whack. Also check the points. They may have went shut if they were just worked on, the screw maybe wasn't tightened down and if they didn't lube them the rubbing block goes away real fast. I would change them out for a petronix. Very simple to install.
    Also this is pretty remote and would only apply if it had the original exhaust but that vintage of GM cars came with a double wall pipe and there were known for the inner pipe to collapse shut. You couldn't see it from the outside. A vacuum gauge will show it right away and usually they will start spitting gas back out the carb just before it dies.

    I'm afraid your simple choke problem has now turned into trying to fix the stuff that other people muddled up.
    BTW, the ground strap is supposed to be under the screw, not jammed under the frame of the points.

  8. #23
    CHEVYLV3R is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 Impala / 68 C-10 PU
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    That ground strap does not move.. It is in its permanent position there is no screw at that point.. My other points dont have that frame that holds the felt..
    BTW Now dwell is at 30 and timing is 2 notches above TDC and this enigine Is back to the Original prob from post #1 again.. Seems like this Carburetor needs rebuilt or scrapped Im not sure at this moment. My next lesson will be in rebuilding a Carb cause i dont have money for a new one lol

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