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Thread: Operating Temperature
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
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    I know what you guys are saying............logic would tell you that if you sit idling an engine will eventually climb to a point where the thermostat opens and the water flows to the radiator. If his hose is cool it says the thermostat didn't open, but my thermostat is a 160 and my engine stays at 150 going down the road, and the hose is semi hot to the touch. I can keep my hand on it, but it is warm to the touch.

    Dan is having a radiator built right now by PRC and is worried it won't cool his 455 Olds. I told him if mine is any indicator, he might have just the opposite problem.

    Don

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    IC2
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    Just thinking
    Another item to check - was the sending unit in the manifold installed with a sealant -i.e., Permatex, Teflon tape or other type. The sender needs a GOOD ground so what you may be reading is from an improperly grounded sender. You don't want ANY sealant on an electrical water temp or oil pressure sending unit. If there is factory sealant, that's OK as it is a dielectric sealant. If it is a Bourdon liquid filled tube, which most Chebbies had, sealant should be OK
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  3. #3
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    Denny, yep, as usual, your explanation is very clear. Makes sense.


    Dave, I knew that about electrical sending units, but I had to goop the h*** out of the sender because that particular threaded port has been weeping since day one. I tried thread sealant, silicone, and finally got it to stop with a big coating of good old fashioned permatex non hardening # 2. I had to torque it tight too, I think that hole is tapped goofy or something, the other 3 are fine.

    But I know the temp is actually accurate, because I can literally hold my hand on the top hose for as long as I want and it isn't uncomfortable. If I tried that in my daily driver it would be way too hot to even touch.

    I'm going to see what it does on this long trip this weekend, then probably bump up to a 180 when I get back.

    Don

  4. #4
    IC2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
    Denny, yep, as usual, your explanation is very clear. Makes sense.


    Dave, I knew that about electrical sending units, but I had to goop the h*** out of the sender because that particular threaded port has been weeping since day one. I tried thread sealant, silicone, and finally got it to stop with a big coating of good old fashioned permatex non hardening # 2. I had to torque it tight too, I think that hole is tapped goofy or something, the other 3 are fine.

    But I know the temp is actually accurate, because I can literally hold my hand on the top hose for as long as I want and it isn't uncomfortable. If I tried that in my daily driver it would be way too hot to even touch.

    I'm going to see what it does on this long trip this weekend, then probably bump up to a 180 when I get back.

    Don
    Oh well - worth mentioning, Don - there's lots that tape 'em up and wonder wotinhel happened. What you really need if you have a 15# cap is a 192/195* thermostat - boiling temp with that pressure is ~250+/-

    Besides that - you have just upset me - it's finally "warmed" to 33* here today with 18/20* "promised" for overnight for the next 2 nights and I can't even get my chassis out of the basement garage to the regular garage to install the body because I'd bury it in the back yard which is mush from all the rain
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

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