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Thread: ZZ4 350 stutters on acceleration...cold weather?
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    southerner's Avatar
    southerner is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 69 Holden HT
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    Question

     



    Quote Originally Posted by Mikej
    If your idle screws and throttle plates aren't adjust properly it can cause what is called tip-in hesitation. You can get the idle rpm's right with the throttle adjustment screw but idle mixture (that some say doesn't effect any other circuit) won't be right. If the throttle plates are open to much, at idle, you can get the bog you are talking about.
    "aerodynamics are for people who cant build engines"

    Enzo Ferrari

  2. #17
    Mikej's Avatar
    Mikej is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1935 Chevy Master Sport Coupe
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennyW
    Mikej, I wish you would get this correct. The idle circuit, IS just the idle circuit.

    Maybe it would be good to go read this page, and pay close attention to the idle, and transfer circuits.
    http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...uretor_basics/

    The most likely problem he is having is lean mixture, accelerator pump not working when he opens the throttle plates, or the fuel level needs to be raised another 1/8". (raise the fuel level, if Holley, until the fuel just wants to trickle out the threaded hole). Also, depending on the model, the front bowl fuel level hole is at a different height than the secondary bowl. If you mix the bowls up, your fuel level will be off. And make sure the carb is level before you adjust anything to do with fuel levels.

    And like HWORRELL says. It can also be a heat problem. The engine is intended to run at normal operating temp. Until it reaches that, it can run a little lean, causeing the fuel not to vaporize properly. If the fuel does not vaporize, it will remain in droplets, and cause you to be lean.


    If the idle circuit doesn't have anything to do after just idleing what is this pertain to?

    "The idle circuit is fairly simple, yet has a dramatic effect on street manners, idle quality, emissions, and fuel mileage."

    This quote was taken off the site you suggested. And I do know about the transition slots. If you have the throttle plates open to far at idle you bypass the circuit. If you know how the carb works, you know why your making the adjustment.
    If it's not broke, fix it anyway.

  3. #18
    Mikej's Avatar
    Mikej is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Denny, I'm sorry that I'm not very good at explaining things on a key board. My main point was Lean Drop Method of adjusting idle and position of the throttle plate vs yours using the vaccum guage. Both will work. Next time I'm playing, my old car, I'll try your way.
    If it's not broke, fix it anyway.

  4. #19
    63BoxNova's Avatar
    63BoxNova is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Geez look what I started! Great article, thanks for that link. I have to read it a couple more times to make sure I got it right. Im not exactly a carb expert, but consider myself a quick learner. Im pretty sure the problem was my carb running lean as some of you mentioned. I have to spend some quality time tinkering with it. I'll be up bright and early tomorrow, before the wife makes me do stuff around the house Ill let you all know how it goes.

    Thanks again for the great replies...this forum is awesome.

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