Thanks guys. I appreciate all of the info. I am sure the problem happens when it is cold as well. I just haven't tried to drive the car with the coolant temp at or below 160F as I know it would stall or bog badly.
After speaking with Joe at CarbUSA the other day I tried moving the dial back a few notches. It was on the second to last notch on the right side. I moved it back to the center notch. It still had the problem. He also mentioned that I shouldn't see anything when the choke is closed. It should be closed completely. So I moved it back another few notches then when the car would start it would immediately stall. So, I put it back to the center notch.

I know what you mean about the bolt. I had my air cleaner off and I saw that it was close to the choke. I was excited as I thought this might be my problem. I unscrewed it some but it didn't make a difference.
It must be a choke problem. Everyone seems to think it is so I will keep focusing my attention there. I read through my Rochester book but it didn't help me out too much as far as fixing the problem.

I would like to see pics. My carb experience is limited to Webers pretty much. I have rebuilt some models and understand how they work but they add fuel vs. restrict air for the choke. So, this type of system is new to me. I can also take some pics of my carb and how it is setup. Maybe that will help.
From what I can see when the high idle comes down the choke butterfly has to open. It has one rod that connects to the electric choke then it goes up to the choke butterfly, then from the butterfly on the other side of the carb it connects to another rod that connects to the fast idle cam/idle adjustment screw.

I am sorry but I am not sure how to check many of the adjustments you showed below. If there is any info that I can provide to help please let me know. I will galdly try to answer any ?'s. Thanks Again.