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Thread: Distibuter timing Q's
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    nystreetscene is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Distibuter timing Q's

     



    So the last thing to get my motor running after a motor swap is the distributer. I have tried a few different tries with no luck to get spark . I know there are 2 diff TDC's I am wondering does it matter which one I am at for the distributer to #1 get spark to the plugs and #2 run correctly. Also Does the number 1 spark plug wire absolutly have to point in the general direction of the driver side valve cover or can I adjust the timing to match the postion of the (technical term) white arm inside the cap with the metal thingy on it . I matched the arm thing up with the number one wire which brings the number one wire in the postion of the center of the intake or also the cent of the back of the carb. I then pulled a plug hooked it to the wire and sat it on my windshield so I could look for spark while turning it over and I got nothing.

    *Specs* This is for 327 with a gm HEI distributer.
    Sorry for poor terms and explanation in a hurry, gonna be late for work


    RJ

  2. #2
    nystreetscene is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Re: Distibuter timing Q's

     



    So how do I tell if its on the compresion stroke ? I know where the the number one wire is supposed to sit but if you adjust the timing by the distributer dosnt that move the position of the number one wire?


    RJ

  3. #3
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Remove the #1 spark plug. Put your finger over the hole. Turn the engine over by hand. When you feel pressure against your finger, you're coming up on #1 compression. When the timing mark aligns with the pointer, you're at #1 TDC. Once you've done that, set your distributor so that the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire terminal. That gets you close. Crank the engine and move the distributor each way a bit, and it should start - assuming you have spark and fuel.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  4. #4
    nystreetscene is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I dont know how famaliar any one is with the the 327 and 350 distributer but the distrubiter has wires that come out and plug into the coil on the cap and there is also room for another I believe 3 prong femal plug. Does any one know does that hook to something or is it something extra I dont have to worry about?


    RJ

  5. #5
    nystreetscene is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    oops nevermind. I just saw a picture of the motor before everything was disconected and saw that there is a plug that gos there. Maybe thats why it wasnt getting and spark


    RJ

  6. #6
    nystreetscene is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Im back to this point. I now know that I have spark and fuel for a fact. It is hard to tell if im on the compression stroke for sure(its hard to turn the engine over and feel for pressure with only 2 hands.) Please ansewer me this, if I am on the wrong TDC what will happen?? I have everything back together and feel I am very close on the timing but when I turn it over it dosnt attempt to start. Can I assume this is because I am on the wrong TDC ?


    RJ

  7. #7
    nystreetscene is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I think I may be confused. Some where I thought I read there was two different TDC's. Is this true or just something everyone is working around? Is it possible for there to be 2 differences of when the number one piston is at top dead center ? Does any one know what im talking about ?


    RJ

  8. #8
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    yes.....on the exhaust stroke..... pushes the exhaust out....hits TDC (number 6 fires) new gas comes in........walla

  9. #9
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
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    Every piston comes to TDC twice. 1) to compress the gas and fire the charge. Then on the next revolution, 2) to push out the exhaust. The term TDC, as commonly used, is #1. When you're setting a distributor and timing an engine, you have to get the #1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke. If you use the "wrong TDC" as you put it, the engine won't run.

    If you take out all the spark plugs and put a wrench on the damper bolt, you shouldn't have any problem turning the engine with one hand while you have your finger over the spark plug hole.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  10. #10
    nystreetscene is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Ive heard 2 different things from a few different peaple. Im not sure everyone(not on this forums) that I got advice from really were sure they new what they were talking about. For example I read somewhere there were 2 TDC's but today my boss who I some waht trust fot this type of advice told me there is not 2 TDC's.

    The way that I see it is TDC is when the number one cylinder is as high as it gos before it starts to drop back down. What I didnt understand was the camshaft turns one revoloution for the crankshafts 2 so the camshaft will be in 1 of 2 places while the crank is on TDC.

    Now I think I completly understand and greatly appreciate everyones patience. Rite now I will be trying the baggy idea since I have aftermarket headers and would have to take them off to get to some of the plugs


    RJ

  11. #11
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    yes.... every cylinder hits TDC twice.....once for compression and once for exhausting....

  12. #12
    nystreetscene is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by dr_bowtie
    yes.... every cylinder hits TDC twice.....once for compression and once for exhausting....
    I understood that but was thinking on a one way track with only what I needed. Thanks for clarifying though I probably would have questioned it later .

    So now I got the thing running. When I get it started I have to keep my foot on the gas slightly to keep it running. I adjusted the idle screw so its as far as it gos and still the same. Also When I step on the gas no matter how far I go down it dosnt seem to pick up RPM's to much evan with it at the floor it just sits around maybe say 3 thousand RPM's possibly less.
    I noticed my distributer has oil in it, just enough to coat somethings but the cap had oil on one of the metal prongs. I wiped it off but noticed there again later. Can I assume that maybe the this is not allowing me to get a good spark to raise RPM's. Also I am sure I am getting enough fuel, it will actually mist it out of the carb like its all not getting burned. Or then again my timing could still be off slightly, I havnt had a second set of hands to help yet


    RJ

  13. #13
    nystreetscene is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Alrite, she runs now . Runs very well actually but the distributer is making a cracking sound like a static electric shock or when a small bug gets zapped on a bug zapper. Is this normal or is this cause the timing is still off a tiny bit ? I just put on a new cap and rotor if that makes a difference.


    RJ

  14. #14
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    R.J. and Denny,
    Do you suppose that popping,cracking noise is a cracked distributor cap and it's arcing out. Just think outloud.
    Duane S
    ____________________________________
    On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust

  15. #15
    nystreetscene is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by DennyW
    Sounds like something may have to wide of a gap. Double check your cap and rotor. Make sure it is properly seated, and the parts are correct. Possible center in cap arcing to the rotor, or pushed to one side.
    So if the center is arcing to the rotor is that bad, will it need to be fixed if it can be ?


    RJ

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