Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: 1997 Chevy Pickup Won't start
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 21
  1. #1
    LowJo's Avatar
    LowJo is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Valparaiso
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1954 Chevy Custom
    Posts
    39

    1997 Chevy Pickup Won't start

     



    Hi all, my husband Steve's 97 Chevy truck won't start. It began acting up driving home one night, couldn't go over 30 mph. He limped home and thought it was the fuel pump, replaced it and still nothing. Changed a couple other fuel related things, still nothing. Hooked it up to a pc reader and no signal sent from the truck to the unit. Figured it was the truck's pc, he got a new one, had it flashed, and STILL NOTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It won't turn over at all but will try to crank.
    ANY IDEAS?????????????????????? PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    LowJo

  2. #2
    LowJo's Avatar
    LowJo is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Valparaiso
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1954 Chevy Custom
    Posts
    39

    He is getting fuel pressure but no spark.

    LoJo

  3. #3
    LowJo's Avatar
    LowJo is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Valparaiso
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1954 Chevy Custom
    Posts
    39

    Last night I went out in the garage to help him and when you try to start it, it tries to turn over but doesn't seem to have any spark. He changed the fuel pump, and something else fuel wise and still nothing. Then replaced the computer, had it flashed and NOTHING, the computer won't even send a signal to the code reader. I am trying to get him on here but he is at work and can't get into the forum unless he has a break.
    Could the anti-theft thing have something to do with it? Is there a sequence he has to go through to get it reset?
    It is driving him NUTZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    As I said earlier, it began by acting like there wasn't enough fuel getting to the engine, he said he really had to work at getting it to do 30 mph coming home so he figured it was the fuel pump. He dropped the tank and changed it and still wouldn't work. Then thought since the computer wasn't sending a signal to the reader, it was a faulty computer. He changed that and still won't start.
    He thinks it is something simple that he is missing but don't know what. I wish he would get on here so he can explain it better.

    LowJo

  4. #4
    lt1s10's Avatar
    lt1s10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    rustburg,
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 CHEVY.S10 LT1-350
    Posts
    4,093

    Originally posted by DennyW
    Well, you threw me off. You said it would try to crank. I would check the timing chain. LT should be along shortly to help on this also.
    how many miles and what kind of motor? just guessing and not knowing if its jumped time or not, if you have good fuel pressure. a new computer, on codes, the conv. is not stopped up, then it don't leave much but the module. if it had fuel and no codes then the module would be next anyway. if its vortex then that's another story.
    Mike
    check my home page out!!!
    http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html




  5. #5
    SHAGGY's Avatar
    SHAGGY is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Valparaiso
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1927 Ford Roadster
    Posts
    39

    I have to make this explanation short donít have much time it has 65 psi fuel presser it is a vortech with crank censer the crank censer is good the old comp was intermittently talking to the diagnostic comp we thought it was the comp we got a new one had it flashed now it wont talk at all to the diagnostic comp no spark it will crank strong good battery no check engine light when you key on the comp is not responding 99% sure the comp is good ??????

  6. #6
    LowJo's Avatar
    LowJo is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Valparaiso
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1954 Chevy Custom
    Posts
    39

    Post

     



    THere I will let Shaggy answer now, I'm just the wife

  7. #7
    lt1s10's Avatar
    lt1s10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    rustburg,
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 CHEVY.S10 LT1-350
    Posts
    4,093

    Originally posted by SHAGGY
    I have to make this explanation short donít have much time it has 65 psi fuel presser it is a vortech with crank censer the crank censer is good the old comp was intermittently talking to the diagnostic comp we thought it was the comp we got a new one had it flashed now it wont talk at all to the diagnostic comp no spark it will crank strong good battery no check engine light when you key on the comp is not responding 99% sure the comp is good ??????
    check all of your fuses make sure you have not blown one. if the computer is getting voltage then it should give you a reading. if it dont then that would be the computer. i dont think that is what it was to start with but it looks like it a problem now. the crank senser would give a code if that was bad. the module wont give a code. is it a 350 or 4.3? was it flooding the last time you drove it?
    Mike
    check my home page out!!!
    http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html




  8. #8
    SHAGGY's Avatar
    SHAGGY is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Valparaiso
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1927 Ford Roadster
    Posts
    39

    IT IS A305 NOT FLOODING IT WAS THE FUEL PUMP TO START IT ONLY HAY 40 PSI. NOW 65 OK, IS THERE A RELEARN THING I NEED TO DO TO GET THE COMP TO ANSWER

  9. #9
    SHAGGY's Avatar
    SHAGGY is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Valparaiso
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1927 Ford Roadster
    Posts
    39

    ALL THE FUSES ARE GOOD, THIS SUCKS TRYING TO DEAL WITH A PROBLEM LIKE THIS IN BETWEEN THE PHONE RINGING AND THE AGENTS CRYING SORRY IF I SOUND SHORT

  10. #10
    lt1s10's Avatar
    lt1s10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    rustburg,
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 CHEVY.S10 LT1-350
    Posts
    4,093

    Originally posted by SHAGGY
    IT IS A305 NOT FLOODING IT WAS THE FUEL PUMP TO START IT ONLY HAY 40 PSI. NOW 65 OK, IS THERE A RELEARN THING I NEED TO DO TO GET THE COMP TO ANSWER

    no relearn, but you check engine light should come on when you cut the key on and then go off. if you cant talk to you cpmputer then youve got a bad compute or no voltage going to the computer check the fuses.
    Mike
    check my home page out!!!
    http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html




  11. #11
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Salado
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32, 40 Fords,
    Posts
    10,783

    Have you done a battery load test?
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  12. #12
    robot's Avatar
    robot is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Tucson
    Car Year, Make, Model: 39 Ford Coupe, 32 Ford Roadster
    Posts
    2,334

    Some tips IF it is a Vortec 5.0 or 5.7:

    97 trucks are not VATS equipped (anti theft)

    Turn on the key. The MIL should illuminate. The MIL is the "check engine" light. If it doesnt, that tells us what direction to go.

    What kind of scan tool are you using? Connect the scan tool and turn the key on. You should get the VCM data. If not, that tells us a direction to go.

    When trying to crank, does the fuel pump run for 2 seconds and then shut off? This is normal.

    The 97 Chevy Truck shop manual has a specfic troubleshooting routine on page 6E-557. Usually, it is not the VCM that goes bad. IT can be the ICM.....there is also a specific Ignition troubleshooting sequence suggested.

    mike in tucson

  13. #13
    robot's Avatar
    robot is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Tucson
    Car Year, Make, Model: 39 Ford Coupe, 32 Ford Roadster
    Posts
    2,334

    VCM is the vehicle control module....the computer to all of us. The computer is pretty rugged and fails less than it gets credit for. Most of the connections are either reading a voltage (like from a temperature sensor) or making a circuit. The computer outputs are sinking....that is, they complete a ground circuit rather than furnish a voltage....pretty immune stuff.

    ICM is ignition control module, on a Vortec, it is a blob next to the coil and it has the heatsink on it.....kinda equvalent to the HEI module under the cap on the older distributors.

    One more thing, the way the truck ran when it was limping home should give more info......if it was a detectable fault, the trouble code was stored in the memory and the MIL (check engine)light was illuminated. If the thing limped home with the MIL on, it was in a "limp" mode.

    Also, the stuff that got us older guys in the past is still valid......a crack in the rotor or cap that grounds the spark will still apply. Even though the OBD systems are really smart, they only point you in a direction.

    mike in tucson

  14. #14
    lt1s10's Avatar
    lt1s10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    rustburg,
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 CHEVY.S10 LT1-350
    Posts
    4,093

    Originally posted by robot
    VCM is the vehicle control module....the computer to all of us. The computer is pretty rugged and fails less than it gets credit for. Most of the connections are either reading a voltage (like from a temperature sensor) or making a circuit. The computer outputs are sinking....that is, they complete a ground circuit rather than furnish a voltage....pretty immune stuff.

    ICM is ignition control module, on a Vortec, it is a blob next to the coil and it has the heatsink on it.....kinda equvalent to the HEI module under the cap on the older distributors.

    One more thing, the way the truck ran when it was limping home should give more info......if it was a detectable fault, the trouble code was stored in the memory and the MIL (check engine)light was illuminated. If the thing limped home with the MIL on, it was in a "limp" mode.

    Also, the stuff that got us older guys in the past is still valid......a crack in the rotor or cap that grounds the spark will still apply. Even though the OBD systems are really smart, they only point you in a direction.

    mike in tucson
    robot, you need to go back and read the rest of this thread. and by the way that motor has a dist. and module just like the old HEI did.
    Mike
    check my home page out!!!
    http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html




  15. #15
    robot's Avatar
    robot is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Tucson
    Car Year, Make, Model: 39 Ford Coupe, 32 Ford Roadster
    Posts
    2,334

    HUH?

    Rereading the original post says that it is a 97. A 97 truck had Vortec injection with a computer, not a TBI. The distributor is plastic with a flat, low profile cap. It has the cam position sensor integal to the distributor body.

    The computer is black and mounts on the driver side fenderwell in a snap off bracket.

    I have five 96-97 units here right now, we are in the process of putting one in a Toyota Landcruiser. That's why I have the shop manuals, the Snap On tester, etc.

    What am I missing?

Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink